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#1 |
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Swap out the L-shaped holdopen and see if it helps.
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#2 |
Lifer
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For testing purposes, remove the hold open all together! It is not needed for any primary function?... best, GT
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#3 |
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#4 |
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I did. There was no change. This was one of the first items I checked when the problem became rampant.
In case I never mentioned it, with no magazine installed in the pistol, I can pull the toggle back as if I'm cycling a round for shooting and the toggle will stick back. Just a thumb tap and it goes forward as normal. Does it with or without the hold open, so I know that isn't it. The problem is relatively recent, too, which is why I'm ordering new springs. For anyone reading: I am ordering the multipack from Wolff, with the 36, 38, and 40# springs. Which is the one that is standard issue? It says 38# is the standard, but I figuered the more knowledgable here would know. |
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#5 |
Lifer
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Hi Mark, I have seen, only once, where the ejector was hanging up on the corresponding groove in the breechblock, It wasn't locked all the way back, but was stuck pretty tightly most of the way back? remove the ejector and see if it affects the outcome?... best, GT
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#6 |
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An interesting idea. Never considered it, figuring there was no way a part that small could do that. I will check that as well.
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#7 |
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could the mainspring be broken ?
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#8 |
Lifer
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Something that could be the culprit that i haven't seen mentioned is the barrel flange could be interfering with the frame on the bottom of the chamber area in the front of the pistol? This is more likely to happen than one might think? It is very close tolerance and can be checked for very easily... best, til...lat'r....GT...
![]() BTW, this is also the area that receives the most deformation during re-barreling and it could be a result of that type of operation?... BTW squared, remember what I recently said about the cure being as far away from the problem as you can get! This could be one of those!!! |
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#9 | |
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#10 |
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No, but there are a number of people who are thinking that despite the age, the main spring may be weak and need replacement.
One thing, as I think about this, is that I haven't considered that the mainspring that was supposedly replaced could have been replaced with a weaker one than original. That could be why it looks new but is potentially failing. It is one explanation that would fit the circumstances. The exact same thing happened several years ago on my P226 when I replaced it with a spring that was 30% lighter than the original. It lasted a couple of years and one day, all of a sudden, stopped striking primers hard enough to ignite. So I'm going to wait and see when I get new springs. There still feels like some sort of interference in the pulling of the toggle, so that has to be considered. |
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