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#23 |
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Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal...
Posts: 8,208
Thanks: 1,425
Thanked 4,474 Times in 2,343 Posts
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Continuing work on the forearm. I made this one eight inches OAL. That makes it half the length of the barrel, which looks more balanced to me.
![]() (34) Side milling the bottom of the forearm, using a 5/8" end mill and taking ~.030" deep cuts, ~.080" wide. (35) Side milling the tapers on each side. Taking about 1/8" taper off. I thought I'd take a couple 'action' shots, just for a change. ![]() (36) Milling the curved end of the brass inlay bar, with a 3/16" concave radius cutter. (37) Drilling the relief holes for the inlay screws in the forearm inlay. (38) Switching over to a 3/4" corner rounding end mill to round the bottom of the forearm. Another 'action' shot. ![]() (39) Brass inlay being milled down with a 3/8" end mill to match forearm bottom surface . (40) Beveling the upper edges of the forearm. (41) Forearm, brass inlay, and brass attaching screws are finished. Wood has two coats of BLO on it, and I was surprised/disappointed to see how dark it turned out. ![]() Next up is to stamp or cut index marks for the barrel/receiver and front sight ramp/base and barrel. I also want to bevel the muzzle and and crown the bore slightly. (42) Here's a comparison of the 13" barrel & 6 1/2" forearm and the 16" barrel and 8" forearm. I've seen pictures online of 16" carbines with the short 6 1/2" forearms; they look disproportionate to me. These two combinations look much more proportional IMO. ![]() Finishing up some of the 'little things' that need doing; feed ramp, extractor notch, muzzle crown, muzzle cap bevels... (43) Using a curved lathe tool bit from Brownell's to cut a radius on the muzzle. I've had mixed success with this, it seems to chatter a lot. ![]() (44) Cutting a 45º bevel on the end of the muzzle cap. I also opened up the hole a bit and beveled that as well. (45) Cutting the feed ramp with a 10mm end mill. (46) Different fixture; cutting the extractor notch with a 3/32" Woodruff keyway cutter followed by a 3/16" Woodruff keyway cutter. Sharp edges will be rounded off with a needle file. That should pretty much finish up machining operation for the 16" barrel and forearm. I'll be looking for a mailing tube to send it off for blueing. I haven't decided if I should get a separate toggle assembly for this upper, or just use the 13" toggle assembly. Really doesn't matter, I suppose. I can only use one at a time. If I was to get a separate toggle assembly, I would probably be tempted to build another long-barrel frame assembly to go with it...
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I like my coffee the way I like my women... ...Cold and bitter...
Last edited by sheepherder; 06-08-2016 at 11:33 PM. |
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