Cracking RH grip...

mrerick · 03-22-2014, 08:13 PM

Hi Zorba,

Even original grips had to be fitted to some extent. You may also be dealing with warping or other humidity related changes in the wood.

Should you need to repair a crack again in the future, consider using the water based "Gorilla Glue". I've found this to be very strong and dimension stable over time.

Super Glue is an anaerobic setting Cyanoacrylate adhesive.

Marc

Zorba · 03-22-2014, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrerick

Super Glue is an anaerobic setting Cyanoacrylate adhesive.

Yes, this I know as it is used to tighten tuning pins in pianos - but you consider the water based Gorilla Glue better than CA (for grip repair) because? Is it an aliphatic resin glue like "Elmer's Carpenter's Glue" or another formulation? Hot hide glue has become my favorite for most wood projects, but probably wouldn't be the best here as it exhibits inferior shear strength.

*shrug* - I dunno which would be best!

318is_Parabellum · 03-22-2014, 10:35 PM

Gentlemen,
I don't profess to have a lot of experience with wood repair, but I have had some experience with both cyanoacrylate and gorilla glue.

Put simply, cyanoacrylate does not expand in place the way I've seen Gorilla glue have. I would have serious doubts that gorilla glue would produce a nearly invisible repair, whereas I've had good luck with cyanoacrylate glue repairing a slightly cracked M-14 stock (good strong invisible repair). I've had trouble with Gorilla glue expanding as it cured. It is a strong bond, but hardly invisible.

Just my $0.02, your experience may differ!

Zorba · 03-22-2014, 10:40 PM

I think - with emphasis on the word "THINK", that there's both an expanding, and a non-expanding Gorilla glue. I've used the expanding type - and its darn fine glue for applications that can tolerate it - but have zero experience with the non-expanding type which I have a fuzzy recollection of seeing in the store. Beyond that, I know nothing!

03-22-2014, 08:13 PM	#1
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,925 Thanks: 1,377 Thanked 3,139 Times in 1,520 Posts	Hi Zorba, Even original grips had to be fitted to some extent. You may also be dealing with warping or other humidity related changes in the wood. Should you need to repair a crack again in the future, consider using the water based "Gorilla Glue". I've found this to be very strong and dimension stable over time. Super Glue is an anaerobic setting Cyanoacrylate adhesive. Marc __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

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03-22-2014, 10:35 PM	#3
318is_Parabellum User Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: West Virginia Posts: 130 Thanks: 80 Thanked 75 Times in 31 Posts	Gentlemen, I don't profess to have a lot of experience with wood repair, but I have had some experience with both cyanoacrylate and gorilla glue. Put simply, cyanoacrylate does not expand in place the way I've seen Gorilla glue have. I would have serious doubts that gorilla glue would produce a nearly invisible repair, whereas I've had good luck with cyanoacrylate glue repairing a slightly cracked M-14 stock (good strong invisible repair). I've had trouble with Gorilla glue expanding as it cured. It is a strong bond, but hardly invisible. Just my $0.02, your experience may differ!

03-22-2014, 10:40 PM	#4
Zorba User Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Merritt Island, Fl Posts: 952 Thanks: 777 Thanked 528 Times in 290 Posts	I think - with emphasis on the word "THINK", that there's both an expanding, and a non-expanding Gorilla glue. I've used the expanding type - and its darn fine glue for applications that can tolerate it - but have zero experience with the non-expanding type which I have a fuzzy recollection of seeing in the store. Beyond that, I know nothing!