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#1 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2007
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Quote:
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#2 |
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Twice a Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY
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One might take John's approach one step further. You will indeed need to reduce the radius of the business end of of this little stretcher/jack.. In order to persuade the material to adopt the proper radius, one must bend it slightly beyond its intended profile--this allows for a certain amount of "spring-back" which will occur. However, leave the other half of the jack at a radius that will fit as closely as possible the radius of the undamaged portion of the guard. The jack will obviously push against two opposing portions of the curve inside, and an exact radius will guarantee no deformation on the opposing side as the operation is carried out. You may also need to adjust the radius of the working end to achieve the desired round profile smoothly.
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"... Liberty is the seed and soil, the air and light, the dew and rain of progress, love and joy."-- Robert Greene Ingersoll 1894 |
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#3 |
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Twice a Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011
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Success! Compliments on the method used--very controllable.
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"... Liberty is the seed and soil, the air and light, the dew and rain of progress, love and joy."-- Robert Greene Ingersoll 1894 |
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#6 |
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Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
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I do have a question, in case I ever have this challenge...Did you just use one good push on the steel bar, or a series of small ones??? Didn't have to actually jump on it...did you???
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I like my coffee the way I like my women... ...Cold and bitter...
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#7 |
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First of all this was a two men operation, I had the job of holding firmly the frame in position and watch carefuly what was happening while my partner worked the lever. It was done in small steady pushes with controled increment in force. The frame was removed from it's bed and examined several times to evaluate the progress. While we were at it I could clearly see the triggerguard adjust itself to the bed and then spring back a little, in the end we filed a small portion from the support bed to allow the trigger guard to pass beyond and spring back to the right position, this filing operation was done little by little to keep things in control. Maximum force used was an estimated 100 pounds.
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#8 |
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Moderator
2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
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That is a very elegant and effective method...I wish I had thought of it when I was hammer and mandrel repairing mine. My congratulations to the innovative minds that came up with it. I really am impressed.
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If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Tennessee
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That's a very neat fix, and another trick to keep in mind when looking for cheap project guns! "The trigger guard is beyond repair, so I can't pay you much.... Only good for parts you know..."
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