trigger guard slightly bent any solution
 

My byf 41 shooter droppped to the ground, and the trigger guard got a flattish 1/4 inch area on it's right side approximately opposed to the trigger spring.
Is there an easy fix for this? Or am I to just suck it up?

One possibility is to have someone turn a gradual brass cone, (maybe even wood) which you can insert into the stripped trigger guard loop and press in until the trigger guard regains its shape.

You could do this on a drill press or in a pinch, in a shop vice.

+1 on the cone idea. Lately I've been making quite a few firearms related mounts and things using Delrin (also called Acetal, it comes in black and white) VERY easy to machine and the white has a natural lubricity to help it slide. Will most likely have to also make a socket-type fixture to support the frame while being pressed to prevent further damage. While the pieces could be made in under an hour (shop time averages $70-100 per hr), Delrin is not cheap, maybe $15-20 for a suitable piece from a supplier.

:cheers:

Thanks for the ideia. Will definetly give it a try.

One could also use a dense hardwood. Less expensive?

Technically, you won't necessarily wind up with true roundness by pressing, as the edges/ends of the deformation will not totally conform due to "spring-back", but it will probably be close enough. It might save a lot of effort to use a hardwood internal mandrel and another piece of hardwood to tap down the apparent high areas from the outside. This lower-tech approach is an art, however, done by someone who can feel the progress.

Once upon a time long ago (no, I'm not starting a fairy tale) I straightened a bent trigger guard on a Luger by clamping a piece of iron pipe in a vise to use as a mandrel/anvil and a rawhide mallet to make it round again. If you have ever done any auto body work you know the process...down it where it is up and up it where it is down. That is pretty much the same technique that David has suggested with the hardwood approach.

The rawhide mallet doesn't create any dents like a steel hammer would. The iron pipe is less "springy" than a wood dowel so it provides a firmer working base. If you are concerned about the pipe marring the trigger guard you can wrap it with electrical tape, but only one layer so it won't act as a cushion.

Kurusu,

Please post a photo of the damaged area... Depending upon the severity of the damage, some combination of the suggestions made so far may make it look better. The judicious application of an appropriate machinist's jack might also assist...

A "REAL" gunsmith, master blacksmith, or machinist could re-bend and re-shape the guard for you... unfortunately, most shops that have a gunsmith today are really just "parts replacers" and they don't know much about metalworking...


I would also suggest that you google "blacksmiths" in your area... and check out examples of their handiwork before you turn over your frame to them...

I agree with Ron's approach depending on the actual damage..Recently I was doing some work on a piclehaben German helmet and needed to expand a small 3" circle of steel. I went to Harbour Freight tools and bought a large size tail pipe expander for $12.00 It worked really slick! One good advantage was you could control what was happening... Most any approach has to be done with some caution. Too much whacking or expanding could cause unintended consequences.

I agree with Doug, the Delrin is the better choice here, Delrin is hard and will not damage as steel would. Also the Ron with the rawhide hammer. Work slowly, don't rush it.

If one of my Lugers "... dropped to the ground, and the trigger guard got a flattish 1/4 inch area on it's right side" I think I would be suicidal :-)

Jokes apart I think that I would:
a) follow Ron's advice
b) in alternative I would take it to a good gunsmith

Another thought comes to mind..A lanyard would prevent things like that!

K, I've straighten a few mashed in tigger guards with a conical wodden mandrel, but none of them came out perfect, so hesitate to do it for anyone else. TH

Lots of food for thought in here. I'm not going to rush anything but think carefully on the best approach.

I've added a photo, but it's very hard to see what's wrong.
The photo was taken in a competition by a fellow shooter and not to show the damage. I'll take a better photo on the weekend

Attachment 37019

The lanyard ideia is not feasable. It's not casual shooting but official target shooting.

And it does shoot :D
Attachment 37021

rusted
 

I hope it's not as bad as this one. LOL

As promised here are some photos of the affected area
Attachment 37097
Attachment 37098
Attachment 37099

Hope it helps.

Trigger Guard Machinist Jack
 

Okay, please forgive the crude drawing, but my only option for hand drawn graphics where I am is Microsoft Paint.

This is the tool I would create for straightening your trigger guard. It will never be like it came from the factory again, but it can look ALMOST like it did when it left the factory if you take your time and be careful. place thin aluminum or brass shims between the device and the inside of the trigger guard.

The drawing is self explanatory, but if you have questions, fire away. I will be watching this thread for a while...

-John

25 yards? Dang good shooting.

25 meters one hand. And thanks for the compliment.

John,

Your plan seems to be the best so far. My shooting mentor, and also the person who is going to help me fix it, has the same opinion.

...after relooking at the drawing, and my instructions, I think you should make the radius of the curved pieces perhaps a bit smaller than the radius of the trigger guard so you can "target" the damaged portion with the apogee of the curve and push out only the dent.

You can also probably use aluminum for everything except the threaded rod and the nuts... less chance of marring the inside of the trigger guard. I also recommend you use a fine thread on the rod (perhaps 28 TPI or more) to make it easier to use...

Good luck and please take photos as you go along. I am sure many will find the process and the results interesting to watch.

-John S.
:cheers: