Luger paint color

ithacaartist · 04-30-2012, 11:08 PM

Robert,

I'm pretty sure we can rule out ferric nitrocarburizing because it only works with ferrous metals, let alone that it's application temps would make me worry about fusing the work in the process. The IonBond process sounds like the ticket, potentially.

I'm thinking definitely not baked, everybody. Here's why:

Last night I immersed a broken Erma La.22 toggle in MEK based stripper overnight. I baked another at 450 deg. Neither action had any affect on finish or structure of the test pcs. I used a brass brush to check for any motion of this finish and it was still hard and tight. One pass of a steel edged scraper yields bare metal.

Jerry, I see what you're saying about the painted/coated look of the Ermas. I noticed that on the underside of the toggle scraps, it looked like such a coating might be there, but the topside of the part is smooth and glossy, likely buffed before finishing, and it has the same look as a blued finish on a steel gun. I think the "painted" look on the underside is a result of the surface texture of that part of the piece, preserved straight from the mold.

I'd also consider electroplating, like black chrome. My former Ithaca/SKB shotgun's barrel was finished that way, with white chrome inside. And there was an Ithaca/Erma connection in the '70's.

I'm hoping this thread lasts long enough to obtain a definitive answer. Apologies for highjacking the thread. The original topic sparked my initial question.

Ted, when I view photo #2 full size, I can see the texture left by the bead blasting, particularly on the bbl. Slick work, there, by the way. You've changed a pistol that just got home from a long, hard day to one that's has a s__t, shower and shave and is now sporting a dinner tux.

DP

Olle · 05-01-2012, 09:12 AM

I tried different chemicals when I restored my LA-22, but the only ones that would touch the finish also etched the metal. I got the impression that it's not a paint, but some form of chemical bluing. One thing that kind of works for finishing the pot metal is Birchwood Casey's "Aluminum Black". Some people obviously use this for refinishing display replicas made of similar metal, but it's very difficult to get a uniform finish and it also stinks real bad. You might be able to get decent results if you have enough patience with it, but I finally had to resort to blasting with fine aluminum oxide, then spraying with Brownell's bake on paint.

Still, the "semi-success" with Aluminum Black leads me to believe that there could actually be some form of "bluing" that can be used on this type of metal. One tip would be to search the model gun forums, seems like these guys struggle with the same problem and they may have a solution.

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

04-30-2012, 11:08 PM	#1
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,369 Thanks: 7,432 Thanked 2,611 Times in 1,378 Posts	Robert, I'm pretty sure we can rule out ferric nitrocarburizing because it only works with ferrous metals, let alone that it's application temps would make me worry about fusing the work in the process. The IonBond process sounds like the ticket, potentially. I'm thinking definitely not baked, everybody. Here's why: Last night I immersed a broken Erma La.22 toggle in MEK based stripper overnight. I baked another at 450 deg. Neither action had any affect on finish or structure of the test pcs. I used a brass brush to check for any motion of this finish and it was still hard and tight. One pass of a steel edged scraper yields bare metal. Jerry, I see what you're saying about the painted/coated look of the Ermas. I noticed that on the underside of the toggle scraps, it looked like such a coating might be there, but the topside of the part is smooth and glossy, likely buffed before finishing, and it has the same look as a blued finish on a steel gun. I think the "painted" look on the underside is a result of the surface texture of that part of the piece, preserved straight from the mold. I'd also consider electroplating, like black chrome. My former Ithaca/SKB shotgun's barrel was finished that way, with white chrome inside. And there was an Ithaca/Erma connection in the '70's. I'm hoping this thread lasts long enough to obtain a definitive answer. Apologies for highjacking the thread. The original topic sparked my initial question. Ted, when I view photo #2 full size, I can see the texture left by the bead blasting, particularly on the bbl. Slick work, there, by the way. You've changed a pistol that just got home from a long, hard day to one that's has a s__t, shower and shave and is now sporting a dinner tux. DP

05-01-2012, 09:12 AM	#2
Olle User Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Tennessee Posts: 1,149 Thanks: 159 Thanked 664 Times in 318 Posts	I tried different chemicals when I restored my LA-22, but the only ones that would touch the finish also etched the metal. I got the impression that it's not a paint, but some form of chemical bluing. One thing that kind of works for finishing the pot metal is Birchwood Casey's "Aluminum Black". Some people obviously use this for refinishing display replicas made of similar metal, but it's very difficult to get a uniform finish and it also stinks real bad. You might be able to get decent results if you have enough patience with it, but I finally had to resort to blasting with fine aluminum oxide, then spraying with Brownell's bake on paint. Still, the "semi-success" with Aluminum Black leads me to believe that there could actually be some form of "bluing" that can be used on this type of metal. One tip would be to search the model gun forums, seems like these guys struggle with the same problem and they may have a solution.