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#1 |
New User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
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Rich, photos of M1930 lock for reference.
Hal |
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#2 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal...
Posts: 8,197
Thanks: 1,416
Thanked 4,462 Times in 2,336 Posts
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Thanks hswee!
![]() Does the sear spring on yours keep spring pressure on the lock frame stop when the hammer is cocked??? Mine does not...In your pic, the lower tang is pressing the frame lock down...but mine has a slight bow in it, and is not pressing against the frame lock...it's flopped upward... I'll have to take the lock assembly apart and check the hammer cavity...In one of Jack Mitchell's books he mentions burrs in the hammer cavity from improper safety operation...I take this to mean dry firing with & without safety on...or playing with the safety operation while dry firing... I'll see if I can find another sear spring, too...Just as a precaution... Last edited by sheepherder; 04-30-2009 at 05:17 PM. |
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#3 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal...
Posts: 8,197
Thanks: 1,416
Thanked 4,462 Times in 2,336 Posts
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Here's a comparison of hswee's lockwork and mine...red circles are where the lower spring tang presses against the frame lock...blue line shows where the tab you press to unlock it is when the hammer is cocked...Mine is up in the unlocked position; hswee's is still locked...
My spring (or at least the lower tang) has lost its tension... ![]() |
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