OK, I'm in. - Page 2

sheepherder · 06-03-2018, 12:24 PM

Here's a couple representative pics of a very worn 116 year old 1900AE that has seen a lot of use...But I would consider the impact marks of the breechblock on the inside of the frame and the toggle ducktail on the rear of the frame to be 'typical' (although not desirable)...

kurusu · 06-03-2018, 01:07 PM

It's typical and normal on a gun that has not been a "paper weight" all it's life.

PS. And it also seems it has not be used for some time now.

DonVoigt · 06-03-2018, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dune Centurion

I am a fortune favors the prepared kinda guy.
So, more reading (as I slog up the learning curve) beg sthe asking of this question?
My shooter works fine. I was thinking it might be wise to have an replacement extractor/spring. Any other parts might have on hand while they are easy to come by and from whom would I get them from?
I've read a number of threads on this but some of them are dated.
Thoughts?

Kevin

The spare parts threads cannot get "dated", as the same parts have failed for 100 years!

I would say the ejector is the "weakest" link, so having an ejector is a good idea.

Go to member "lugerdoc" for parts.

kurusu · 06-03-2018, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

The spare parts threads cannot get "dated", as the same parts have failed for 100 years!

I would say the ejector is the "weakest" link, so having an ejector is a good idea.

Go to member "lugerdoc" for parts.

You can add the holdopen to the weakest link list. But it's an easy fix. Take it of before shooting.

Rick W. · 06-03-2018, 10:47 PM

Kevin,

I am glad to hear that you are enjoying the new acquisition. They can get into your blood it seems, been shooting Lugers for a few years myself now and pretty much enjoy it still.

As you pointed out, these guns have some time in grade, perhaps lots of tweaking along the way or like some claim, pristine as new. All kinds out there especially now. These were hand fitted parts throughout back in the day, twas the way it was back then.

When I buy a Luger, I am not an optimist; I try to do the best visual that I can, then throw sanity to the wind and buy it anyway. I did win once a very low number for a free trip in the 60's though; so finally seeing is sometimes believing; a good cleaning will show good and bad.

The tape test is an indicator. So is the feel in the hand, a shock to the hand says metal to metal is going on; just as simple as that. I think the Luger function is an orchestration, not an impulse; just a philosophy in a way.

Take a looksee at the spent cases, how do the cases look pressure-wise? As a shooter yourself, I know you look at cases off the line at times just out of curiosity, a lot of randomly found spent 9mm's are perfed, lots of primer flow, or just swelling of the head.

With my purchases, I replace the coil springs throughout the pistol; just my way, and not intended to be a mandate, everyone has to think for themselves. I like the 38lb recoil spring from Wolff, just convenient to buy and fair quality.

With a perforation of primer, where gases etc flow back thru the firing pin hole, the Luger firing pin and retainer will try to exit the rear of the breechblock. The two little ears are not built to hold much, tis the berries to fix, and most times requires a new breechblock part($$$). Some folks will use use a fluted firing pin, others will add venting; if so inclined to that update. I like to choose my ammo, all my ammo are my own reloads; being from the benchrest rifle community; lots of fussing/fuming over my handloading.

The extractor in the later pistols is intended to work in conjunction with a smallish coil spring to grab the case in battery. The tip of the extractor should always be able to clear the rear of the case rim. One can kinda check for such if one pushes the rear tab of the extractor with a brass punch, the spring should not reach its compression(stack up) limit before the tip of the extractor goes over the rim. Otherwise the extractor becomes a spring itself and not good for its lifespan in my opinion.

Sounds like you are enjoying the experience of the Luger design, a real classic..........

Rick W.

sheepherder · 06-03-2018, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick W.

I did win once a very low number for a free trip in the 60's though...

Rick W.

Hey, me too! #80 out of 365! But I decided on a similar trip organized by WesPac Ground Forces instead!

I might have driven right by you...

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06-03-2018, 01:07 PM	#22
kurusu User Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,225 Thanks: 2,679 Thanked 930 Times in 509 Posts	It's typical and normal on a gun that has not been a "paper weight" all it's life. PS. And it also seems it has not be used for some time now.

06-03-2018, 10:47 PM	#25
Rick W. User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 339 Thanks: 81 Thanked 359 Times in 198 Posts	Kevin, I am glad to hear that you are enjoying the new acquisition. They can get into your blood it seems, been shooting Lugers for a few years myself now and pretty much enjoy it still. As you pointed out, these guns have some time in grade, perhaps lots of tweaking along the way or like some claim, pristine as new. All kinds out there especially now. These were hand fitted parts throughout back in the day, twas the way it was back then. When I buy a Luger, I am not an optimist; I try to do the best visual that I can, then throw sanity to the wind and buy it anyway. I did win once a very low number for a free trip in the 60's though; so finally seeing is sometimes believing; a good cleaning will show good and bad. The tape test is an indicator. So is the feel in the hand, a shock to the hand says metal to metal is going on; just as simple as that. I think the Luger function is an orchestration, not an impulse; just a philosophy in a way. Take a looksee at the spent cases, how do the cases look pressure-wise? As a shooter yourself, I know you look at cases off the line at times just out of curiosity, a lot of randomly found spent 9mm's are perfed, lots of primer flow, or just swelling of the head. With my purchases, I replace the coil springs throughout the pistol; just my way, and not intended to be a mandate, everyone has to think for themselves. I like the 38lb recoil spring from Wolff, just convenient to buy and fair quality. With a perforation of primer, where gases etc flow back thru the firing pin hole, the Luger firing pin and retainer will try to exit the rear of the breechblock. The two little ears are not built to hold much, tis the berries to fix, and most times requires a new breechblock part($$$). Some folks will use use a fluted firing pin, others will add venting; if so inclined to that update. I like to choose my ammo, all my ammo are my own reloads; being from the benchrest rifle community; lots of fussing/fuming over my handloading. The extractor in the later pistols is intended to work in conjunction with a smallish coil spring to grab the case in battery. The tip of the extractor should always be able to clear the rear of the case rim. One can kinda check for such if one pushes the rear tab of the extractor with a brass punch, the spring should not reach its compression(stack up) limit before the tip of the extractor goes over the rim. Otherwise the extractor becomes a spring itself and not good for its lifespan in my opinion. Sounds like you are enjoying the experience of the Luger design, a real classic.......... Rick W.