Need Pic of Broomhandle Lockwork

[sheepherder]

I'm concerned that my latest purchase might have a broken sear spring/hammer pivot...This is an M1930 (stepped barrel)...

I need a pic of the lockwork as it comes out of the receiver, showing the right side, where the sear spring engages the lock frame stop...

I think the tip might be broken off...

When the hammer is cocked, the lock frame stop is "floppy"...You can pull the lockwork right out - there's no spring pressure on the lock frame stop when the hammer is cocked...

Thanks in advance!

[alvin]

The frame lock latch and spring were in same shape across board. No 1930 available, but pix 30 & 31 of this 1914 gun should help:

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=127896136

On yours, most likely the latch and/or the spring was replaced in the past. Both parts were unnumbered on 1930, but inter-exchangability of parts on Mauser is poor, even for unnumbered ones.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by alvin

The frame lock latch and spring were in same shape across board. No 1930 available, but pix 30 & 31 of this 1914 gun should help:

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=127896136

On yours, most likely the latch and/or the spring was replaced in the past. Both parts were unnumbered on 1930, but inter-exchangability of parts on Mauser is poor, even for unnumbered ones.

alvin -

Thanks for the link! Mine is shown below, on bottom, with pic from your link on top. I guess mine is OK then. I was concerned that it might have broken the tip of the spring off, but it appears unbroken.

Maybe just fatigued, after all these years...(I know that feeling!)...

[alanint]

A dab of JB Weld at the very bottom tip of your spring may add tention to the latch and prevent it from raising.

[hswee]

Rich, photos of M1930 lock for reference.
Hal

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by hswee

Rich, photos of M1930 lock for reference.
Hal

Thanks hswee!

Does the sear spring on yours keep spring pressure on the lock frame stop when the hammer is cocked??? Mine does not...In your pic, the lower tang is pressing the frame lock down...but mine has a slight bow in it, and is not pressing against the frame lock...it's flopped upward...

I'll have to take the lock assembly apart and check the hammer cavity...In one of Jack Mitchell's books he mentions burrs in the hammer cavity from improper safety operation...I take this to mean dry firing with & without safety on...or playing with the safety operation while dry firing...

I'll see if I can find another sear spring, too...Just as a precaution...

[sheepherder]

Here's a comparison of hswee's lockwork and mine...red circles are where the lower spring tang presses against the frame lock...blue line shows where the tab you press to unlock it is when the hammer is cocked...Mine is up in the unlocked position; hswee's is still locked...

My spring (or at least the lower tang) has lost its tension...

[alanint]

See my J B Weld Suggestion above. It's an easy fix!......

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by alanint

See my J B Weld Suggestion above. It's an easy fix!......

I did read your post, and was thinking about it...I have some JB Weld, but have not been impressed with it...(tried to fix a mistake I made some time ago on an 80% AR-15 receiver)...I am hesitant because the thought of something falling off and getting stuck bothers me...

I also thought of sleeving it with a brass ball point pen refill...or a steel "U" on the tip...

What I will probably do is order a piece of 2" 4140 steel rod and make one...

I owned an M30 Broomhandle some years ago, and IIRC, it was a real bear to push that lock up...I couldn't push it with my finger; had to use a brass punch...

FWIW, I quench my springs in Canola Oil...

[alvin]

Sorry, I was busy on a little bit private stuff these days which drove me crazy.... so I did not reply earlier.

Probably the sear spring is OK, but the lock frame latch's "U" opening does not match this sear spring. The spring should keep press the latch regardless the position of the hammer.

Those unnumbered latch is very commonly available. You can replace one easily. This is another point that I don't understand Mauser -- "If you could not guarantee inter-exchangability of this part, why did you drop the number on it?"

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by alvin

Those unnumbered latch is very commonly available. You can replace one easily.

I will try that next, thanks.

I did try a Numrich sear spring...it was new manufacture, and had new gray paint on it...the first time I cocked it, it deformed...it had no 'spring'...it was soft steel, not hardened...

$32.30 wasted...

[Lugerdoc]

Postino, I have originalsear springs in stock @$45 or lock frame stops @$15. Not all of these are made the same. It's possible that a different stop with a less open cut for the spring, could solve your problem and with a lot less labor to change. TH

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Lugerdoc

Postino, I have originalsear springs in stock @$45 or lock frame stops @$15. Not all of these are made the same. It's possible that a different stop with a less open cut for the spring, could solve your problem and with a lot less labor to change. TH

Sounds good to me! Easier (and cheaper!) than making one myself!

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Lugerdoc

...I have...lock frame stops @$15. Not all of these are made the same. It's possible that a different stop with a less open cut for the spring, could solve your problem and with a lot less labor to change. TH

Yes, it could and yes it does!!! The lock holds shut in the cocked position now! Thank You!

[Lugerdoc]

Postino, Happy to learn that this solved your problem. TH