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03-04-2010, 10:37 AM | #1 |
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Free up relic luger
Hello all!
My first post here. I have recently accuired a luger in relic condition, grounddug with loaded mag, no bullet in chamber though. I have started to try to get the mechanics to move again and itīs going forward, the rear linkage is free and I can pull it up until itīs supposed to start and pull the forward part backwards, but I canīt make that happen. Is there something that can block the forward part from moving? The safety is on, and I havenīt managed to get it moving yet, could that interfere? The magasin is also still in place, but that shouldnīt be the problem, or? Any hints on getting forward with this would be highly appreciated. |
03-04-2010, 11:37 AM | #2 |
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There is a mag. hold-open device that could be doing its job, and the safety is also an issue regarding movement of the toggle. Not to mention tight tolerances on the toggle slide groves.
Have you tried removing the grips and soaking the whole thing in a penetrating oil such as 50/50% ATF and acetone? Send us some pictures. Sounds like a fun project for all of us. dju |
03-04-2010, 04:48 PM | #3 |
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03-04-2010, 04:58 PM | #4 |
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03-05-2010, 09:17 AM | #5 |
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Out of interest, how did you get the gun into its current 'clean' condition from the rusted one?
I have just found a mud-caked Luger in the fields of france. A search of the word 'Somme' should find it on this forum. Macadoon |
03-04-2010, 06:40 PM | #6 |
Lifer
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...Hmmm...It appears that besides being broken/rusted off, the safety is also "on"...You won't be able to draw the toggle assembly back until you get the safety "off"...
..I wouldn't know where to start... |
03-04-2010, 09:18 PM | #7 |
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Do you have both bakelite grips? When taking them off, where they damaged in any way? They are valuable in undamaged condition....
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03-04-2010, 09:56 PM | #8 |
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Hi, If you can remove the bakelite grip, you could try the thermal expansion method to break things free. Chill the gun in the freezer, then drop in a pot of boiling water. After a few minutes, remove, shake out as much water as you can, then spray liberally with WD40. I have done this with old black powder guns with some success. Good luck! Norm
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03-06-2010, 11:10 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Heat expands...cold contracts...The parts might contract enough to slide loose... Also, since you have drilled mag already, it might be good to cut/chisel away what is left of thin sheetmetal in mag, remove cartridges, and peen down mag until it collapses and you can pull it out... Finding an old beatup junk mag to display in it should not be too big a problem... |
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03-05-2010, 02:26 AM | #10 |
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postino:
Thanks, then Iīll know that I must keep working on getting the safety to the off position before anything else. alanint: Nope, have only one side. Norme: As you can see from my first pictures the grips is off on both sides. Thanks for tip on the hot/cold method, might give that a try. |
03-05-2010, 08:36 AM | #11 |
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Here's a poor pic taken with my cell phone (my digital camera battery is flat ) showing the safety off (top) and on (bottom)...Good luck freeing that up...
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03-05-2010, 07:32 AM | #12 |
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Just one grip, if undamaged, is still worth money to a collector who needs that one....
Last edited by alanint; 03-05-2010 at 08:55 AM. |
03-05-2010, 08:42 AM | #13 |
Always A
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Hi again, It is not necessary to move the safety lever off "safe" to fully open the action of a WWII Luger. This only applies to guns with an unmodified sear bar manufactured prior to mid 1916. Regards, Norm
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03-05-2010, 12:34 PM | #14 |
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Hi Norme! None of my three Lugers will open the toggle with the Safety on...two are commercials; one is a 1937 S/42...
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03-05-2010, 09:29 AM | #15 |
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alaint:
Could be but the grip stays with the gun Macadoon: Using electrolysis(bucket of water, car battery charger and some painting soda), itīs the absolut best way to remove rust. |
03-05-2010, 12:52 PM | #16 |
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With the 'new safety' it is possible to open the toggle slightly, not fully.
The only way to free the toggle on this one is to get the blocking part of the safety out. Since this is a tight fit, the chance that you can free it is actually pretty good. |
03-05-2010, 01:44 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
My three will open the breech block 3/32"; 1/8"; and 3/16" , with the S/42 being the 3/32"... Would these be the 'new safety' that you speak of??? And the 'old safety' - would that the the safety that pivots in the opposite direction??? The OP appears to have the 'new safety'...or would have, if it hadn't rusted away... |
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03-05-2010, 02:03 PM | #18 |
Always A
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Hi Rich, This is a photo of my byf, just like the gun in question, with the safety on and the action open. Of course, if one wanted to disassemble further, the safety would have to be off, the take down lever deployed, and the trigger plate removed, as well as the magazine. This gun has a long way to go before that can be done! Regards, Norm
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03-05-2010, 02:27 PM | #19 |
Always A
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Hi Rich, me again. I can't believe you can't open the action of your 1937 S/42 when it's on safe. Here's a photo of mine. Regards, Norm
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03-05-2010, 02:46 PM | #20 | |
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Quote:
OK! I see what our problem is...We're comparing apples & orangutans... I was trying to pull back the toggle with the magazine in, the safety on, and the lockwork in the fired position... If I try it with the lockwork in the ready-to-fire position, the toggle(s) will pull up... |
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