Free up relic luger
 

Hello all!

My first post here.

I have recently accuired a luger in relic condition, grounddug with loaded mag, no bullet in chamber though.

I have started to try to get the mechanics to move again and it´s going forward, the rear linkage is free and I can pull it up until it´s supposed to start and pull the forward part backwards, but I can´t make that happen.

Is there something that can block the forward part from moving? The safety is on, and I haven´t managed to get it moving yet, could that interfere? The magasin is also still in place, but that shouldn´t be the problem, or?

Any hints on getting forward with this would be highly appreciated.

There is a mag. hold-open device that could be doing its job, and the safety is also an issue regarding movement of the toggle. Not to mention tight tolerances on the toggle slide groves.
Have you tried removing the grips and soaking the whole thing in a penetrating oil such as 50/50% ATF and acetone?
Send us some pictures. Sounds like a fun project for all of us.
dju

I have been spraying it with WD40 several times a day for a week, and before that I used electrolysis on it.

Here are some pictures of it. The grips are black plastic, have only one side though.

http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/8030/dsc0001copy.jpg

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/8472/dsc0007copy.jpg

http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/5154/dsc0009copy.jpg

This is how it looked when i got it:

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7742/dsc0039copyd.jpg

http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/1282/dsc0042copy.jpg

...Hmmm...It appears that besides being broken/rusted off, the safety is also "on"...You won't be able to draw the toggle assembly back until you get the safety "off"...

..I wouldn't know where to start...

Do you have both bakelite grips? When taking them off, where they damaged in any way? They are valuable in undamaged condition....

Hi, If you can remove the bakelite grip, you could try the thermal expansion method to break things free. Chill the gun in the freezer, then drop in a pot of boiling water. After a few minutes, remove, shake out as much water as you can, then spray liberally with WD40. I have done this with old black powder guns with some success. Good luck! Norm

postino:
Thanks, then I´ll know that I must keep working on getting the safety to the off position before anything else.

alanint:
Nope, have only one side.

Norme:
As you can see from my first pictures the grips is off on both sides. Thanks for tip on the hot/cold method, might give that a try.

Just one grip, if undamaged, is still worth money to a collector who needs that one....

Here's a poor pic taken with my cell phone (my digital camera battery is flat :mad: ) showing the safety off (top) and on (bottom)...Good luck freeing that up... :thumbup:

Hi again, It is not necessary to move the safety lever off "safe" to fully open the action of a WWII Luger. This only applies to guns with an unmodified sear bar manufactured prior to mid 1916. Regards, Norm

Out of interest, how did you get the gun into its current 'clean' condition from the rusted one?
I have just found a mud-caked Luger in the fields of france. A search of the word 'Somme' should find it on this forum.
Macadoon

alaint:
Could be but the grip stays with the gun :)

Macadoon:
Using electrolysis(bucket of water, car battery charger and some painting soda), it´s the absolut best way to remove rust.

Hi Norme! None of my three Lugers will open the toggle with the Safety on...two are commercials; one is a 1937 S/42... :confused:

With the 'new safety' it is possible to open the toggle slightly, not fully.

The only way to free the toggle on this one is to get the blocking part of the safety out. Since this is a tight fit, the chance that you can free it is actually pretty good.

What was the purpose of drilling into the magazine? To make the rounds inert?

Soak it for DAYS in a bucket of KROIL or a mixture of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid... then try to work the parts away from each other. Do this until you have success. The safety bar that stands in front of the sear is not being held into the frame by anything other than rust since your photo shows the safety lever is broken... after soaking try hitting this part on top with a brass punch... if it moves you are in business for taking the gun apart...

...but once the magazine is removed, I wouldn't put too much effort into disassembly... just mount it on a plaque with the grip side up and it will make a great wall hanging in your den or gun room. Just my $0.02

Vlim -

My three will open the breech block 3/32"; 1/8"; and 3/16" , with the S/42 being the 3/32"...

Would these be the 'new safety' that you speak of???

And the 'old safety' - would that the the safety that pivots in the opposite direction???

The OP appears to have the 'new safety'...or would have, if it hadn't rusted away...

Hi Rich, This is a photo of my byf, just like the gun in question, with the safety on and the action open. Of course, if one wanted to disassemble further, the safety would have to be off, the take down lever deployed, and the trigger plate removed, as well as the magazine. This gun has a long way to go before that can be done! Regards, Norm

Hi Rich, me again. I can't believe you can't open the action of your 1937 S/42 when it's on safe. Here's a photo of mine. Regards, Norm