last little thing?.....Mec-Gar mag bottoms

[G.T.]

Hi To all! A lot of my previous work both with mag upgrade and development, plus barrel work and just basic performance issues, has involved Mec-Gar magazines... Both Blue and Nickel. The latest MG mags leave little room for improvement, and actually, they have addressed problems a normal Luger shooter would NEVER see in a lifetime of shooting!....... I am impressed both with their product, and even though it took some time, their effort to correct issues that occurred from time to time....
But, all that having been said, one thing they still are missing is the funky black plastic Navy concentric ring bottom design! ... Well, today I decided to see if that was correctible, and the good news is yes! A 3/4" ball end mill effectively removes all the rings and provides a much better concave recess to properly grasp the bottom piece... It's not all that much better looking, but it does look better???... I will trade you one of mine for one of yours for $10.00 and/or, sell you one for a broken mag bottom replacement for $15.00 ... I have a few, and will be generating more as time goes by...... Best to all, til....lat'r....GT....

BTW, only applies to the Nylon filled (dull not shiny) new bottom pieces... the shiny ones will break soon if not already broken...

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by G.T.

BTW, only applies to the Nylon filled (dull not shiny) new bottom pieces... the shiny ones will break soon if not already broken...

I have 2 of the shiny and 4 of the dull Mec-Gar bottoms in my junk box...New unused, all pulls...What are they worth to you???

Hint: I could use an aluminum bottom...Of some kind...

[G.T.]

Hi Rich! toss the shiny ones... but the dull ones are perfect trade for a new EG cast bottom that is cleaned up along the part line! (Mauser WW2 clone!?) ....... I'll send out later this week if acceptable to you?.... ... til....lat'r....GT....

[G.T.]

Hi to all, seems as if I've been spouting off too much again!....... Time to get back to work as all I've recently learned is now out for review!... More in the future.. but work, work, work for now! best to all, and thanks, til...lat'r....GT...

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by G.T.

Hi to all, seems as if I've been spouting off too much again!

How about posting a pic of your modified dished Mec-Gar mag bottoms?

I hadn't noticed that Mec-Gar had changed to Nylon rather than plastic bases. In fact, I was somewhat surprised to note that an older Mec-Gar I have has an aluminum follower, rather than the new plastic followers.

Newer does not mean better.

[Zorba]

I recently bought one of the new MecGars - it works flawlessly!

[DonVoigt]

Nooo!

Don't delete, it is very worth while for those who want to DIY to see what you have.
That can be done in a drill press or by hand, a mill is not necessary IMO- but the ball mill may be.

I learned something I didn't know, I thought the shiny aluminum bases were metal- not plastic.

LIve and learn.

Thanks for posting.

[Edward Tinker]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

Nooo!

Don't delete, it is very worth while for those who want to DIY to see what you have.
That can be done in a drill press or by hand, a mill is not necessary IMO- but the ball mill may be.

I learned something I didn't know, I thought the shiny aluminum bases were metal- not plastic.

LIve and learn.

Thanks for posting.

i think it just looks aluminum? Mec gar never made aluminum did they?

[aldo35]

What a great thread!
Thanks to all. I will look at my mags again
Aldo35

[Edward Tinker]

pictures posted for non-picture GT

Rich, I too hate it when you delete pictures / threads because its usually helpful

[G.T.]

The pictures Ed so graciously added to the beginning of the thread, (because I can't figure out how to do it!..) shows the Nylon reinforced MEC-GAR mag bottoms with my effort to dish the knobs for better purchase when shooting?... Where as Rich used a 5/8" end mill, I used a 3/4" and took it to the max, both have there appeal but, I would say it is most likely what we had on hand was what got used! I am probably going to stay with the 3/4" because it is out to the max and feels very positive for the shooter in me.. but, aesthetically, the 5/8" is by far more preferable... ... Either way, it is an improvement to the MEC-GAR concentric ring offering... The last picture is a normal day at GT's work space! (next qty. 5 Numrich drums going out!) It can change to messy and stormy in a heartbeat!... ... Best to all, til...lat'r....GT...

Hi Rich! Please, Don't delete! You efforts and posts are always really interesting, and food for thought at a very high level!!!! .... I learn from them every time you post!..... Best to you, til...lat'r...GT

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by G.T.

I would say it is most likely what we had on hand was what got used!

Exactly. My quick change collet set only goes to 5/8". My R8 collets go to 7/8" but I lose 2" quill travel if I go to them. I haven't had a use for any ball end mill greater than 5/8" yet.

What I need is a precision ground 4" high table adapter so that the R8 collets will extend down to the work surface. Until I get that sorted out, I'll stick with the QC collets.

I like to amuse myself with humorous comments, but I realize that my humor is only appreciated by myself so I'll delete them after I have my chuckle. I crack myself up sometimes!

[G.T.]

Hi Rich, I get your humor.... again don't delete! It's part of the fun here.... ... The main difference between what we have done, is mine is lathe turned, while yours are milled.... I wish I had a mill... maybe in the future!....Best to you, and all, til...lat'r...GT.....

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by G.T.

The main difference between what we have done, is mine is lathe turned, while yours are milled.

You chuck one knob in the lathe chuck and the ball end mill in the tailstock chuck??? Another skinned cat!

I have been on the lookout for a tool post milling attachment for years. I owned one once; they are great! Basically a mill vise mounted on an L-shaped base, it has a center pivot so you can turn it 360º. It also has a screw to allow lengthwise movement.

It makes any operation so much easier.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by G.T.

I wish I had a mill... maybe in the future!

Gerry, back in the 70's/80's, before I bought my Bridgeport [now gone], I used a tool post milling attachment for my South Bend 14 1/2" x 60" lathe. There's a couple on eBay right now but pretty high price and kinda small...

But they can bridge the gap between a lathe and mill until you can find/buy a milling machine. I used mine for milling out reliefs for Bo-Mar BMCS low-mount rear sights, dovetails, S&W micrometer K frame sights, etc - all in 1911 slides. It was also good for making small parts. It adds 360º adjustability to the lathe, plus an extra 'Z' axis.

(Just to be clear, you mount the end mill in the lathe chuck and this attachment to the tool post!)

If I didn't have the mill in my Chinese 3in1 machine I'd buy this attachment.

[lugerholsterrepair]

In Rich's post #11 it looks like this could be accomplished with a drill press?

[DonVoigt]

Sure you can do it in a drill press!
Most presses have a depth stop, if it does not, just be careful!
Heck, you could do it with a hand drill.

[G.T.]

It very soon becomes a project in stability..... A mill, or a Lathe, usually have considerable "stiffness & stability" built into the spindle or quill..... so if you can hold the work, you don't have to worry about chatter... if you have a real good drill press, and mount the tool bit as high as you can and move the quill as little as possible, you might have good results IF the work is clamped tight as well.... 5/8" and larger are pretty stout bits, especially if sharp?.... With plastic, you just might get away with it..... turn it slow??? otherwise, you're probably going to have issues... ... best to all, til...lat'r...GT...

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by G.T.

It very soon becomes a project in stability..... A mill, or a Lathe, usually have considerable "stiffness & stability" built into the spindle or quill..... so if you can hold the work, you don't have to worry about chatter... if you have a real good drill press, and mount the tool bit as high as you can and move the quill as little as possible, you might have good results IF the work is clamped tight as well.... 5/8" and larger are pretty stout bits, especially if sharp?.... With plastic, you just might get away with it..... turn it slow??? otherwise, you're probably going to have issues... ... best to all, til...lat'r...GT...

I had some experience in the past drilling holes in Lexan and Plexiglass. The secret for success, particularly in hand work, is a material-specific bit that is profiled to cut plastic. The edges are barely relieved, so the cutting edge is very close to 90 degrees, and they more scrape than cut. A regular bit will dig right in and advance without enough material being removed per revolution. This, in turn, causes binding--just like driving in a wedge--and the piece will pop/crack/shatter apart. Using something with a controlled rate of advance, such as the mill, helps a lot. I'm wondering if a pre-heated bit would net better results on the brittle plastic ones.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

Sure you can do it in a drill press!
Most presses have a depth stop, if it does not, just be careful!
Heck, you could do it with a hand drill.

Ooh, I'd love to see that! Post lots of pics! And don't be embarrassed!