2 Date WW1 Erfurt Luger Help

[BlackBart]

OK, just bought this and no doubt grossly overpaid ($1100.00) BUT I wanted one and they are getting harder to find at shows and auctions. Has some extraction problems, spent casing goes square against next round in chamber. Conical Winchester factory ammo, will soon try others. I'm thinking maybe stretch the extractor spring a fraction? On the plus side the pin hits the primer with authority.
2 aftermarket magazines, and one grip is non matching.... everything else seems to be # original. Bore is fair, bluing speaks for itself and I know it's OFTEN asked but dumb it down for me.... why the 1916/1920???
Thanks in advance!

[Edward Tinker]

you're right, the question is asked a lot on the 1916 / 1920 - the answer is in the FAQ - I can write more later if you can't find it

Welcome to the forum

[BlackBart]

Tried............ getting gibberish (to me) about subscriptions?

[Edward Tinker]

Originally Posted by BlackBart

Tried............ getting gibberish (to me) about subscriptions?

what?
top line
USER CP - ALL ALBUMS FAQ

http://forum.lugerforum.com/faq.php


>>>>>>>>> http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=13121

[alanint]

Welcome to the forum. Your takedown lever is an East German replacement and not original to the pistol. There may be issues with the magazines or magazine catch, as it sounds from what you described as the magazines sitting a hair too low in the frame. I would order an entire spring set for your pistol and try again.

[BlackBart]

Gotcha and I do appreciate the help! The 2 sets of numbers in question does NOT mean this was used for police use? Could it have been used in WW2 since it has some comblock after market parts?

[Don M]

Originally Posted by BlackBart

The 2 sets of numbers in question does NOT mean this was used for police use? Could it have been used in WW2 since it has some comblock after market parts?

Odds are that it was reissued to the police shortly after WWI. If so, it probably was issued to one of the barracked Bereitschaftspolizei units, did not receive a sear or mag safety and was transferred to the military in 1935-36. Pure speculation, however.

[rhuff]

Trying to stretch the extractor spring MAY help for a very short time, but will not be lasting. The extractor spring is quite small, but very important for normal functioning. It should be replaced, and while there, clean out the extractor channel(they get pretty nasty) and check the "business" end of the extractor to be sure that one "ear" has not broken off(very common).

[BlackBart]

Best place to order a quality extractor spring? Doubtful I want a used or knockoff .......... can OEM types still be had?
Thanks all for your help!

[abukafura]

The 1916 date is the military date the Luger was accepted into service. 1920 is simply an acknowledgement that this weapon belonged to the government on that date, after the war when many guns were kept by private individuals. I hope George will provide a better answer on this question

[mrerick]

Hi, and welcome to tjhe forum.

From your pictures, it looks like the receiver may not be going completely into battery.

The small gap shown at your toggle train's breech face is not normal.

This could relate to the fitting of a replacement takedown lever. When in battery, the receiver looks like it may be proud to the frame...

If you're not experienced with these mechanisms, consider getting it to a good Luger experienced gunsmith that can check and fit it properly.

You paid about the going price for a good properly functioning shooter Luger.

(on background, I've never seen one of our members here respond to an inquiry with gibberish... There are some questions that regularly come up, and that's why we've assembled responses into our FAQ - so that we don't have to keep repeating explanations...)

Marc

[BlackBart]

Originally Posted by mrerick

Hi, and welcome to tjhe forum.

From your pictures, it looks like the receiver may not be going completely into battery.

The small gap shown at your toggle train's breech face is not normal.

This could relate to the fitting of a replacement takedown lever. When in battery, the receiver looks like it may be proud to the frame...

If you're not experienced with these mechanisms, consider getting it to a good Luger experienced gunsmith that can check and fit it properly.

You paid about the going price for a good properly functioning shooter Luger.

(on background, I've never seen one of our members here respond to an inquiry with gibberish... There are some questions that regularly come up, and that's why we've assembled responses into our FAQ - so that we don't have to keep repeating explanations...)

Marc

No, didn't mean to sound like member was responding in gibberish........ the link result that came back to me was gibberish! My fault no doubt not knowing the software. Cut me some slack, I'm older than most and gave up after DOS.

[John Sabato]

Originally Posted by BlackBart

... Cut me some slack, I'm older than most and gave up after DOS.

Older than most? from your avatar, I would guess you are in your mid to late 60's? ...about my age (68). I started with an Apple ][ computer and my first IBM compatible had only a single floppy drive and no hard disk. It used MS-DOS 1.0 !

To sharpen your mind all you have to do is keep it in practical use. Collecting or learning about Lugers will definitely help with that...

Please try to take some photos of your pistol in natural light on an overcast day and without a flash. We can tell you more about your Luger if we can see clear, in-focus photos that show all markings and stamps. Please also include a photo of the front of the frame below the barrel. This is where the actual serial number should be... 4 digits with a cursive script letter underneath the number.

Welcome to the Lugerforum.

[BlackBart]

Originally Posted by John Sabato

Older than most? from your avatar, I would guess you are in your mid to late 60's? ...about my age (68). I started with an Apple ][ computer and my first IBM compatible had only a single floppy drive and no hard disk. It used MS-DOS 1.0 !

To sharpen your mind all you have to do is keep it in practical use. Collecting or learning about Lugers will definitely help with that...

Please try to take some photos of your pistol in natural light on an overcast day and without a flash. We can tell you more about your Luger if we can see clear, in-focus photos that show all markings and stamps. Please also include a photo of the front of the frame below the barrel. This is where the actual serial number should be... 4 digits with a cursive script letter underneath the number.

Welcome to the Lugerforum.

Thanks for the welcome, yes we're close..... I started with a Tandy EX... single floppy at 1200 baud, aded external HD and became an expert on Alleycat and pong. BBSing was a lot of fun or so I thought. I really thought I was jamming when I got a XT clone and 2400, LIGHTSPEED! Many think my avatar is some kind of pirate or boatyard logo, oh well, I can still eat, sleep and waste time at the North York Co range.
Anyway, took gun semi apart and did stretch out extractor spring a bit.... no soap, same thing. I DID discover with no pin in it it does go home all the way as advertised BUT when I align and put the axle back in it draws the slide back maybe 1/16th of an inch or less, just not enough for the extractor to grab except maybe the last round. Therefore............ beats the **** out of me. Nothing "looks" bent or in backwards that I can see. Really at a loss and knowing I probably overpaid to begin with..... local gunshop somewhere or swap it off at the next gunshow.......... I dunno.
Barrel aligns perfectly with factory line and numbers match. Damn!!! Best guess... never been separated.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by mrerick

(on background, I've never seen one of our members here respond to an inquiry with gibberish...

I didn't see this thread before...You made my day! Always start the day with a good laugh!

Now...I've not only SEEN members here respond with gibberish...I'VE responded with gibberish!!!

I've also woken up early on a Sunday morning and read posts here that would make a longshoreman blush...Those get reported immediately...

[Lugerdoc]

I agree that the barrelled receiver is going too far forward for the breech block with extractor to seat properly. I do have new repro locking bolts in stock @$50 as well as new or used original extractor springs in stock. TH

[DonVoigt]

While you are working on the piece, you may want to consider replacing all the coil springs.
Wolf Gun Springs sells a "kit" with extractor, main, and striker springs. Check for them on line or
get the equivalent from Lugerdoc.

Looks like your TD lever is an East German unit- may explain the problem- it that is it.

[BlackBart]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

While you are working on the piece, you may want to consider replacing all the coil springs.
Wolf Gun Springs sells a "kit" with extractor, main, and striker springs. Check for them on line or
get the equivalent from Lugerdoc.

Looks like your TD lever is an East German unit- may explain the problem- it that is it.

The East German levers are typically bad or not very well fitting? Can I conceivably file mine into workable order before I buy one here from someone that offered to sell me one? Is this the same part as some call "locking bolt"? My 7th pic down under the SN.

[DonVoigt]

No, with regard to EG levers.
Yes, TD lever = locking bolt.
Looks like your problem can't be solved by a file, the receiver is too far forward already.
A new lever may not fix it either, the lug on the bottom of the receiver may have been filed on-
though I have no idea why! Or the front of the frame could have been shortened, but does not look like it.

You really need another to compare it with, IMO.

[BlackBart]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

No, with regard to EG levers.
Yes, TD lever = locking bolt.
Looks like your problem can't be solved by a file, the receiver is too far forward already.
A new lever may not fix it either, the lug on the bottom of the receiver may have been filed on-
though I have no idea why! Or the front of the frame could have been shortened, but does not look like it.

You really need another to compare it with, IMO.

Good info, it DOES fire and cycle "half" the time as advertised. That's what makes me think it's a ejector spring problem. >maybe< Compared to most other guns I own or have shot... very light trigger pull, this I like.