2 Date WW1 Erfurt Luger Help
 

OK, just bought this and no doubt grossly overpaid ($1100.00) BUT I wanted one and they are getting harder to find at shows and auctions.:o Has some extraction problems, spent casing goes square against next round in chamber. Conical Winchester factory ammo, will soon try others. I'm thinking maybe stretch the extractor spring a fraction? On the plus side the pin hits the primer with authority.
2 aftermarket magazines, and one grip is non matching.... everything else seems to be # original. Bore is fair, bluing speaks for itself and I know it's OFTEN asked but dumb it down for me.... why the 1916/1920???
Thanks in advance!

you're right, the question is asked a lot on the 1916 / 1920 - the answer is in the FAQ - I can write more later if you can't find it

Welcome to the forum

Tried............ getting gibberish (to me) about subscriptions?:confused:

Welcome to the forum. Your takedown lever is an East German replacement and not original to the pistol. There may be issues with the magazines or magazine catch, as it sounds from what you described as the magazines sitting a hair too low in the frame. I would order an entire spring set for your pistol and try again.

Gotcha and I do appreciate the help! The 2 sets of numbers in question does NOT mean this was used for police use? Could it have been used in WW2 since it has some comblock after market parts?

The 1916 date is the military date the Luger was accepted into service. 1920 is simply an acknowledgement that this weapon belonged to the government on that date, after the war when many guns were kept by private individuals. I hope George will provide a better answer on this question

what?
top line
USER CP - ALL ALBUMS FAQ

http://forum.lugerforum.com/faq.php


>>>>>>>>> http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=13121

Odds are that it was reissued to the police shortly after WWI. If so, it probably was issued to one of the barracked Bereitschaftspolizei units, did not receive a sear or mag safety and was transferred to the military in 1935-36. Pure speculation, however.

Trying to stretch the extractor spring MAY help for a very short time, but will not be lasting. The extractor spring is quite small, but very important for normal functioning. It should be replaced, and while there, clean out the extractor channel(they get pretty nasty) and check the "business" end of the extractor to be sure that one "ear" has not broken off(very common).

Best place to order a quality extractor spring? Doubtful I want a used or knockoff .......... can OEM types still be had?
Thanks all for your help!

Hi, and welcome to tjhe forum.

From your pictures, it looks like the receiver may not be going completely into battery.

The small gap shown at your toggle train's breech face is not normal.

This could relate to the fitting of a replacement takedown lever. When in battery, the receiver looks like it may be proud to the frame...

If you're not experienced with these mechanisms, consider getting it to a good Luger experienced gunsmith that can check and fit it properly.

You paid about the going price for a good properly functioning shooter Luger.

(on background, I've never seen one of our members here respond to an inquiry with gibberish... There are some questions that regularly come up, and that's why we've assembled responses into our FAQ - so that we don't have to keep repeating explanations...)

Marc

I agree that the barrelled receiver is going too far forward for the breech block with extractor to seat properly. I do have new repro locking bolts in stock @$50 as well as new or used original extractor springs in stock. TH

While you are working on the piece, you may want to consider replacing all the coil springs.
Wolf Gun Springs sells a "kit" with extractor, main, and striker springs. Check for them on line or
get the equivalent from Lugerdoc.

Looks like your TD lever is an East German unit- may explain the problem- it that is it.

No, didn't mean to sound like member was responding in gibberish........ the link result that came back to me was gibberish! My fault no doubt not knowing the software. Cut me some slack, I'm older than most and gave up after DOS. :thumbup:

The East German levers are typically bad or not very well fitting? Can I conceivably file mine into workable order before I buy one here from someone that offered to sell me one? Is this the same part as some call "locking bolt"? My 7th pic down under the SN.

No, with regard to EG levers.
Yes, TD lever = locking bolt.
Looks like your problem can't be solved by a file, the receiver is too far forward already.
A new lever may not fix it either, the lug on the bottom of the receiver may have been filed on-
though I have no idea why! Or the front of the frame could have been shortened, but does not look like it.

You really need another to compare it with, IMO.

Good info, it DOES fire and cycle "half" the time as advertised. That's what makes me think it's a ejector spring problem. >maybe< Compared to most other guns I own or have shot... very light trigger pull, this I like. :)

Springs are cheap, won't hurt to change one or all.

The very first thing that I'd attend to would be getting ithat upper into proper position when it's in battery. Starting out from the right place is a good thing, and may improve ejection. Since Lugers are machines with inter-relating balances--ammo, recoil spring, mag spring, and all the different weights of the components that go whanging around when it's fired-- I would not dismiss the possibility out-of-hand. If your lug is deficient, a weld to replace the errant material would be a simple matter. It might not hurt to remove the locking bolt for examination/comparison with a standard one.

Seems more likely that a mashed or out of spec. locking lever is more likely the culprit than worn lugs. You just need to land a spec. Erfurt or DWM lever for comparison. If that fails you may be able to send it to the Lugerdoc and let him swap some parts.
dju