![]() |
my profile |
register |
faq |
search upload photo | donate | calendar |
![]() |
#1 |
User
Join Date: May 2024
Location: Hayden Idaho
Posts: 9
Thanks: 12
Thanked 32 Times in 7 Posts
|
![]()
I’m going to run a magazine through my early S/42 , I’ve replaced the original matching numbered firing pin with an original backup as I’ve heard the strength of the metallurgy changes with age? Suggestions? Lighter loaded Ammo? Grains ? 115? Thoughts? Thanks Jim (also my AC41 P.38)
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Rocky Mountain High
Posts: 308
Thanks: 168
Thanked 246 Times in 84 Posts
|
![]()
I think the firing pin would be the least of my worries of breaking any part. Me, it would be the ejector.
Last edited by Roadster 02; 06-27-2024 at 06:18 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
The following member says Thank You to Roadster 02 for your post: |
![]() |
#3 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 686
Thanks: 2,035
Thanked 566 Times in 301 Posts
|
![]()
... and, yes 115gr FMJ "target loads" are best.
Winchester or PPU if you can find them. Avoid high powered "P+" or "NATO" ammunition. |
![]() |
![]() |
The following 4 members says Thank You to Mac Cat for your post: |
![]() |
#5 |
User
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 55
Thanks: 9
Thanked 34 Times in 23 Posts
|
![]()
The Blazer brass would be my recommendation if you don't have the ability to make reduced power reloads.
It is possibly the new WWB. Lots of people are having problems with WWB these days, myself included. It is now made both in the U.S. and Bosnia. Running it through my chronograph revealed a 200 fps velocity standard deviation. And it's now referred to as "Training Ammo", printed on the box as such. The Blazer Brass is better IMHO, and priced about the same. Regardless, either brand with 115 grain bullets will put a bit less recoil stress on the pistol than 124 grainers. There are people who will say they shoot full bore loads through their P.08's and have done so for years with no bad results. I'm an abundance of caution kinda guy and can reload reduced power rounds, so I do. I shoot steel plates at 25 yards at about 750 fps and I have noted that the plates can't tell any difference at all. Ditto for paper targets. All the above caveats absolutely apply to your P.38, perhaps even more so, as I have seen more broken parts on WW2 P.38's than P.08's, which is why so many people suggest buying a post-war P1 for regular range shooting. If your 1937 P.08 is a collectible, then running a couple of magazines through it should be OK to verify function, but if you want a Luger to shoot regularly then you would be better off buying a "shooter grade" in the $1,000-$1,200 price range as opposed to taking a similar value hit on your 1937 Luger should you break a serial numbered part. Just my 2 cents worth. Differing opinions may be forthcoming. -Bob Last edited by velodog455~; 06-28-2024 at 08:36 AM. Reason: Clarity |
![]() |
![]() |
The following member says Thank You to velodog455~ for your post: |
![]() |
#6 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Byron, Georgia
Posts: 1,683
Thanks: 780
Thanked 1,637 Times in 536 Posts
|
![]()
On the surface that load is almost identical to the WW1 German military load which was a 123 grain bullet at approximately 1090 fps. Depending upon the powder burn rate, it should work well. If you have any doubts, use the Winchester 115 grain loads.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|