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Unread 01-08-2010, 08:51 AM   #1
Leonardo Singer
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Default Somebody to Work on my Luger in Brazil

Greetings,

I am from Brazil and have a family gun that is, according to its characteristics and marks (B-U-G 11835 and B-U, with no engraving over chamber), a P08 9mm (DMW) 1902-1908.

Unfortunatelly, this Luger had been stored inapropriatelly during many years before it was given to me and, although it is not broken or in bad shape, it needs some good care (remove some rust and check mechanisms and parts).

Hence, I am in need of an advice: Does anyone here know somebody who lives in Brazil and could work on my Luger appropriately?

Thank you for the help, sorry about the broken English
Best Regards

Leo
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Unread 01-08-2010, 11:52 AM   #2
Mike B
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Leo,
I cannot help you with your request for a gunsmith in Brazil. However, I must ask: Is 11835 the serial number? There are members on this forum that know a lot more about this than I do, but if this is the serial number, you might have a somewhat rare Luger. Please add pictures to your posting.
Thanks,
Mike
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Unread 01-08-2010, 12:45 PM   #3
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Default Luger in Brazil

Hello Mike,

Oh boy, I was expecting a negative answer. Thank you very much for answering anyway. Brazil is not a "gun friendly" country and thats why a gunsmith here is so rare. Let alone one with knowledge of Luger poistols manufacturing.

Regarding the serial:

No, its serial is 44945. The number I refeered (11835) is part of a proofmark (number 2 in Technical Information/MARKINGS/PROOFMARKS/PROOF1/iten 2) which is located below the barrel.

It is displayed as the letters B, U and G in an upside-down triangle position. Above each letter there is a pentagon. Below the letters there is this number: 11835.

My Luger displays also proofmak number 3 shown in the same section (Technical Information/MARKINGS/PROOFMARKS/PROOF1/iten 3).

It is not military and has DMW logo, but no contract symbol next to it. So, I presume it is a commercial one. Besides, it is all dark, with dark grip.

I am not sure it is rare. Though, I am almost sure it is the kind of 9mm produced between 1902-1908.

Nevertheless, I will send pictures later.

Thanks a lot.
Leo
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Unread 01-08-2010, 01:41 PM   #4
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Leo,
That number (11835) is a measurement of the bore diameter. It should have a comma, after the third numeral. Does the Luger have a grip safety?

Mike
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Unread 01-08-2010, 02:39 PM   #5
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Yes, there is a comma after the number 8. Nope, no grip safety only thumb safety.

Leo
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Unread 01-08-2010, 03:06 PM   #6
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Leo,
You have a Model 1908 Commercial. The 118,35 is the old method of indicating caliber and represents the number of 9mm round lead balls required to make a pound. It is not particularly rare, but it is uncommon and is a desirable collector item. Hopefully the amount of rust is not extensive. Until you find a gunsmith I would recommend that you keep the gun well oiled to stop the rust and prevent further damage. Rebluing the gun is strongly discouraged as that will destroy most of the collector value. We would very much like to see photos when you can send them.

I believe there are one or two members of this forum that are from Brazil. Perhaps they will notice this thread and be able to assist you. By the way, your English is excellent and far better than my non-existent Portuguese!

Best regards,
Ron
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Unread 01-08-2010, 04:57 PM   #7
Leonardo Singer
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Mike and Ron,

Thanks!

I have just put my hands on this pistol and feel it needs urgent attention. I will follow your advices and oil it so as to hinder further damage. Yet, I will not give up on finding a gunsmith. The rust damage is relatively extensive, though it wont get worse.

This is a picture of DMW Logo
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Unread 01-08-2010, 05:01 PM   #8
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Another picture.
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Unread 01-08-2010, 05:03 PM   #9
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Finally ... the other side.
I was checking number of parts and all of them show the number 45. It seems the pistol is all original.
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Unread 01-08-2010, 07:07 PM   #10
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Leo,
Thanks for the photos. Given the condition of the gun, I would encourage you to give it immediate attention and use oil liberally to remove the active red rust with 0000 steel wool. It will not further damage the blueing and will consideably improve the appearance and halt the rusting process. After cleaning, a lighter application of oil or silicone will protect the finish. Remove the grips to access the rust that is undoubtedly active there. Be particlarly careful in the removal of the left grip so that you do not break off the small portion of the grip under the thumb safety. Good luck.
Ron
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Unread 01-08-2010, 08:32 PM   #11
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Default Leonardo

I do live in Brazil, and I will be glad to help you if you want.
my personal email is emiliano@caramaschi.com.br.
BTW, where do you live in Brazil?
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Unread 01-08-2010, 08:48 PM   #12
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Emiliano,
I was hoping you would respond to this thread!
Best regards,
Ron
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Unread 01-08-2010, 09:34 PM   #13
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Ron,

Indeed, I read this forum everyday, but I am to shy to post...

I will contact you by email soon, I have bought a new item that surely you will like. As soon as I have it in my hands, I will send you some photos.

Regards,

Emiliano

Last edited by ecaramaschi; 01-08-2010 at 09:35 PM. Reason: grammar checking...
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Unread 01-08-2010, 09:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Wood View Post
use oil liberally to remove the active red rust with 0000 steel wool. It will not further damage the blueing
Ron

Can you confirm what I quoted from you above. I too did this on a number of milsurps that i have restored in the past (rifles). Recently, after posting this method, I go ripped into a bit on another forum. I have never seen any negative impact from this process, but am now doubting myself due to the thrashing I got.

In other words give me the warm fuzzies please!
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Unread 01-08-2010, 09:48 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecaramaschi View Post
but I am to shy to post...
Yes, tell me about it. i am in awe of the knowledge on this board.
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Unread 01-09-2010, 09:25 AM   #16
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Al,
I suspect the individuals that gave you the thrashing had lots of opinions but very little, if any, experience. Like you, I have never seen any negative impact from this process, and I have cleaned a bunch of guns. There are better products than 0000 steel wool, but they are not significantly better and they are usually difficult to find. One of these products is called "Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner". It is made from a special metal alloy and looks like one of those coarse metal pot scrubbers, but according to the packaging it "Does twice the job of steel wool, but will not harm the finest blued surface". I have used it and can confirm that it doesn't harm the blue. They have a website www.big45metalcleaner.com
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Unread 01-09-2010, 11:51 AM   #17
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Default PLEASE, carefully remove the grips BEFORE bathing

the metalworks in the oil. there are good discussions of the takedown procedure on this forum.....tom
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Unread 01-10-2010, 08:46 AM   #18
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I have found a product called "chor-boy" works very well too!. This product is in wide spread use in the financially challenged areas of any small or major city(ghetto). Almost every store in those areas carry it.
If you can't find it, ask any crack user where to buy it. They can point you in the right direction.
its alot cheaper than Brownells stainless steel wool and works just as well.

its pronounced "Chore boy" originially manufactured as a pot/pan scrubber

Jim
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Unread 01-10-2010, 12:57 PM   #19
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Default damn jamese, i never thought about asking my criminal clients

about the proper cleaning of my guns...most of them just use them once and into the river they go.......
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Unread 01-10-2010, 03:52 PM   #20
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Leo:
From your pictures it appears the stock lug may be missing from your "08" frame.
Can you provide a picture of the rear of the grip?

Regards Ken D
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