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Do grips shrink with age?
If so, is there any way to prevent it besides never removing them? Maybe some rennaisance wax on the inside? Eric
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Eric, i can understand some slight expansion and contraction due to changes in moisture content, but would tend not to think this would be significant in either direction for the guns in your collection in your house.
Now let's wait to hear from the wise ones. |
I was told to put equal gentle finger pressure up on the inside care to the upper end!
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FWIK plastic "Coltwood" stocks for 1911 Governments are notorious for shrinking and warping, while neglected wood Luger grips get probably very dry and frailer with age.
IMHO |
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Wood is hydroscopic - absorbs or loses moisture based on ambient humidity. The best 'treatment' for Luger grips is to leave them alone and store in a clean environment at modest temps and humidity. In FL I would think you'd be OK vs. any shrinkage.
Wood folklore is full of well meaning but un-informed advice about how wood must be 'nourished' or otherwise subjected to various substances to prevent drying/cracking/rotting/shrinking etc. Invariably such advice is anecdotal. Wood grips need a refreshing drink of moisture just as much as the metal in the pistol does (zero). My guess is, various "treatments" are suggested because many companies sell wood care products and there are no FDA type regs on benefit claims, as wood can neither vote nor make campaign contributions. Luger grips are made of hardwood, with the grain oriented along the grips at least on mine. Such wood is very durable and able to endure all manner of abuse - people can get away applying oils and other "wood care" products without noticeable short-term damage. I define short term as less than 100 years. Those who wish to actually preserve grips should research the matter; experienced curators who actually understand wood cellular structure seem to all recommend add nothing, while storing wisely. |
I have learned the hard way! Leave them alone!! Go wax the car!!
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As most know, wood will absorb/reject moisture on its own; which can effect dimensional characteristics.
Everyone has seen rifles with the barrel and forend touching, far on one side or the other, or even some vertical components. On a thin barrel, will push the barrel around; of course; differently at different times which makes for some heartache to the shooter. Guys in rainy environments found about all of that long ago. A method to help is to seal the surfaces with various materials, the net is full of suggestions of type of material. In some of my rifles, the wood forend interior is smeared with a cut form of Acraglass. Laminated stocks take this to another extreme. Of course, upwards from that, are the synthetics. Wood has some nice characteristics that we cannot seem to leave, beauty, feel, and dampening in some environments. People here seem to revamp the old tired Luger grips and use a sealer of some kind. In the collectible areas, that needs to be thought about, change is not always good in that area of the gun hobby. Natural wood will always move some due to the environment the wood was subjected to. Hopefully not a lot of movement huh? :) |
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The Mortal Sin is storing a magazine in a collection luger or holster or duel mag! Years ago I forgot I had 2 mags that turned green and nearly impossible to remove!
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Broken Carbine Grip~
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While bored I tried removing my foward grip and it broke in 3 pieces. Hugh Clark if I remember did luger magic and after getting yelled at by Debby as it is hers I leave it alone!
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I remember that saga, Eric. Hugh did a great job restoring its integrity, with naught but an invisible repair joint. You may have helped his success if you sent it directly to him for help instead of trying something at home--there's not much worse job than fixing someone else's unsuccessful "repair." If someone's previous tracks need to be covered, it can take 2X the work, and also sometimes 10X the skill!
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Right on~ I Dropped a magazine next to my recliner. Half the head got cracked. I tried and it was awefull. I sent it to our hero and it was returned almost perfect! I'll post!
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Nightmare!!! I had loads of perspective client who want to change a will after a husband dies! Thank God He Repairs Repairs!! Thanks for the reminder!! What worse its' Debbys' Gun! PS This is your finest work of your that I've owned that you custom made! TKS
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You can recondition wood, but it's an iffy process. Wood will expand and contract with humidity, and the only way to prevent loose grips would be to seal them permanently while they're at a moisture content that makes them fit perfectly. That's easier said than done, and if you don't get them perfectly sealed they will still dry out afterwhile. When that happens, you'll have a jolly good time conditioning them again, as "re-moisturizing" sealed wood will be an extremely slow process.
Also: Keep in mind that wood will compress, so some (maybe most) of the slop you find in old grips is caused by tightening/retightening the screws, shooting, handling etc. Shimming them is by far the best option, and some methods have already been described in previous posts. One of my favorites is to use small pieces of rubber band, it will compress and give you a very snug fit. It may not be practical with Luger grips, but this is what I normally use on revolver grips. If it's just a matter of a few thousands, I use small strips of paper. You can even super glue these to the gun, super glue is easy to remove with acetone and it won't hurt the finish. |
What is exact Name for the wood used in our grips! I will do the research for us all! A Pleasure!! BA History and Pre~Law! George Anderson is an Imperial Expert. Most of those I post are from George. If I could chose a father that I never had it would be Grorge! No, Not For His Collection but always being there!!Luger excitement much life little children on Christmas morning! God Forever Protect Our Heros and Teachers!! Luv Ya Eric
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Eric, Imperial Lugers up until 1917 grips are all European Walnut. 1917 on we see Beech and Walnut. Like the Imperials, Nazi era Lugers are European Walnut up until1940 or later when we see Beech and plastic.
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Lately I have had success in shimming loose grips at the top with thin nitrile rubber (about 1/32) which is available from many sources and chemically fairly inert.
On the bottom, on shooters I use rubber o-rings from Ace Hardware. On collectibles that require a tighter grip at the bottom I make my own washers out of 1/32 walnut which requires a bit of care but are invisible on the pistol. |
Shrinking g with age
I don`t know about grips, but I do know I shrink with age!
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