More G.T. 'Bulged Barrel' Magic !
 

I recently saw an ad on Gunbroker.com for a Smith & Wesson Model 52 target pistol. It was listed as an 'ex-MTU' pistol with two magazines, some chips & scratches, and a bulged barrel... :eek:

The price was good (about half a 'new' M52) and after reading the thread that jamese posted ["Metal Lathe Work", http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=26030 ], I was confident that it could be 'rescued'! :thumbup:

That thread describes how G.T. repaired jameses bulged Mauser 1914 barrel, using a set of graduated 'squeeze' blocks to crimp the bulge down to manageable size.

After winning the auction, I contacted G.T. about the barrel, and he agreed to apply his expertise!

The base diameter of the barrel is .515" and the bulge measured .525". Repairs were effected using two steel squeeze blocks measuring 1" x 2" x 5/8" and one .517" reamed hole and one .515" reamed hole. A steel reinforcing rod of 8.75mm was used to keep barrel from flattening while being 'massaged'. The squeezing was done in a 1-ton arbor press assisted by one BMFH...

The squeeze was initially done in 90º increments with a .004" spacer between the .517" blocks; then without spacer; then with spacer & .515" blocks, then without. Finally the barrel was squeezed in ~10º increments in a radial pattern.

At this time, the bulge measures .516", one thousandth over the surrounding barrel. It could have probably been shrunk down to the base .515" but the 8.75mm rod was the closest available. Interestingly, an 8.8mm rod [9mm Luger bore size] would not go in.

Here's the step-by-step process, as quickly as I could snap pictures. Let's follow G.T.'s repair process, shown in the pics below! :D

1- The Model 52 as received. Complete, but worn and dirty.

2- The barrel. Sharp eyes will notice the bulge about 3/4" forward of the locking lug.

3- Closeup of the bore. The shadow in front of the chamber end is the bulge. It was quite noticeable when running a patch through the barrel. The patch would suddenly 'loosen' at that spot.

4- Barrel showing the marks where the bulge is located.

5- Reaming the "G.T. Squeeze Blocks".

6 - Finished squeeze blocks, with an added indexing pin (later shortened).

7 - Press showing barrel mid-way through the operation. Bore reinforcing rod is not visible, but it is in place.

8 - Final squeeze - shadow is gone!

Final pic shows a comparison between the bulged barrel and the repair.

A big "Thank You!" to Gerry for his ingenuity and time in helping me get this old blunderbuss back in excellent condition!!! :) :thumbup: :cheers:

G.T. offers many other services. He can be contacted at - Gerald Tomek gctomeks@msn.com

Beautiful, Real Professional!!!!!

Can a person purchase a "BMFH" on line or was this also a home built item?

More and more I am impressed with the work of our friend GT. Creighton Audette ( you old time, long range shooters will remember him ) used to mark his work with a simple "C O Audette".
Perhaps, GT should consider doing the same. I'd be pleased to have his mark on work he did for me.
John

OK, here's one for you. A beautiful Artillery Luger with about 98% original finish, all matching numbers, with a noticeable bulge in the barrel closer to the front than to the rear but clear of the rear sight and front site areas. 2 things make this one additionally challenging: Original finish AND a tapered barrel. Ideas?
dju

Yes. Instead of a straight reamer, make a set of squeeze blocks with bored tapered holes. Same setup as making the Luger barrel vise inserts, but in steel. :)

As to the finish, I have had excellent results wrapping blued Luger barrels with one layer of masking tape when turning them in or out via the barrel vise. Whether this would hold up under 100 or 200 whacks with a brass hammer while clamped between two blocks of steel in an arbor press is unknown to me. Perhaps a hydraulic press might be more forgiving.

bluing would suffer?
 

Hi Guys, I think the blue would suffer some and have to be redone, you might even need a little metal prep, but that is a whole lot better then a bulge!?.... I just had a new barrel with a machining variance in the taper, looked like a bulge even though it wasn't?? I couldn't leave it on as I would not want to be at fault for someone trying to sell it with all the "yup! it's bulged!" guys out there?.. :cheers:...best to all, til...lat'r...GT :cheers:

I got in some cast lead bullets from Missouri Bullet today, 148gr DEWC, flush seated. Loaded up six [yes, only six] rounds with 3.0grs of Red Dot. All six fired OK; one stovepipe on ejecting (no surprise there); five of the six hit paper. Mic'd the barrel after cleaning, no expansion. I didn't think there would be, but good idea to inspect, methinks. :)

No idea what kind of load S&W set this pistol up for, no specs anywhere (S&W sent me the owners manual; no load data in it). This seemed a fairly tame load. I shoot 3.5grs Red Dot behind a 158gr LSWC in my S&W Model 15 w/2" barrel and that has more felt recoil than this 148gr load.

I'll load up a dozen or so of 3.0grs and a couple 2.5 just for S&G. And see if I can hit anything. :D

I have the Speer # 10 and it lists 3.0gr Red Dot at 826fps [hollow base 148gr WC]. I think I will try the 2.7gr Red Dot listed @ 763fps... ;)

Why on Earth would anyone take it apart??? :confused:

Why?
I thought everyone knew that taking an auto pistol apart was part of the graduation test for idiots.
If they can re-assemble it, they fail.:rolleyes:

I find "they" usually use a Luger or a M1896 Mauser.

My Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson shows my serial being in the first year of production [1961] and it still retains the double-action lockout screw. The 52-2 did away with that.

The whole pistol is just a reworked model 39. Much of it was unchanged [design-wise]. I suppose this was S&W's answer to Colt's out-of-the-box competition Gold Cup National Match pistol for big bore shooting. S&W had no experience [at that time] with big-bore autos so based it on their successful 9mm design. :rolleyes:

I've had several Colt Gold Cup National Match autos in .45 cal (I have one now) and had the best experiences shooting them with the Series 70 models with the collet barrel bushing. I've read that those bushings were "prone to breaking" but none of mine ever has. The collet let the barrel return to the same position repeatedly whereas the solid bushing had a thousandth or two of play.

The Model 52 has a solid bushing too (a threaded screw-in bushing with a spring plunger lock). I would prefer a collet but I think my style of wildly waving two-hand hold wouldn't improve much... :D

My BMFH is a home-made job, having a 2 1/2" dia chunk of brass 4" long fixed to a standard hammer handle. I originally made it for knocking the hub nuts off my Austin-Healey. The Healeys had a dinky little lead hammer that was inadequate for the task. I made two of the hammers while working as a millwright. My supervisor was pissed but I did actually use one at work. :)

Judging by the prices for brass at www.onlinemetals.com, I have $100 of brass in these two hammers... :D