Sear plunger pin and S-link pin removal
 

I recently attempted to 100% detail strip a 1938 Mauser 'shooter', just for the fun of it. Youtube disassembly videos give a good overview of how to do it although the ones I viewed leave off removal of some pins. I was able to get the pistol and toggle apart, except for the sear plunger and S-link. I found the pins holding those to be very tight.

After unsuccessfully trying to remove those pins using a punch and mallet, I decided to try my drill press. It worked and I wanted to share the technique.

I found a very small drill bit in my parts box that fit the pin face, and chucked it into my drill press upside down. Sorry I don't have the exact drill bit size, I just made a visual fit of the bit face to the pin. I placed a block of wood under the sear assembly. I found I had to tightly chuck the bit into the drill press or I could not budge the sear plunger pin. But, on about the third try I had things tight enough and pushed the pin out.

There is a hole in the wood block to receive the pin. This photo was taken right before I pushed the pin out.

I did not push the pin all the way out, rather just enough to allow the plunger and spring to come out. The spring is small and thin, easy to lose or damage.

I cleaned out the channel with pipe cleaners and Ballistol.

I used a slightly larger drill bit, also mounted upside down, to press the pin back in. I also built a crude wooden jig to keep the plunger in its channel at the correct distance as I pushed the pin in. I was concerned the spring might pop out during the reassemble. I was not optimistic that anyone would have a replacement spring in stock.

The jig worked and the press of the pin was smooth. It is a tight fit and flush.

I was able to dissemble the toggle parts fairly easily, but the pin holding the S-link would not budge using a 3/32 punch and mallet. So, I chucked a 3/32" drill bit into the press, upside down. As with the sear plunger pin, there was a hole in the wood to receive the pin when it was pressed out.

I had to pull down pretty hard on the drill press handle - the pin would not move and the drill bit began to slide upward into the chuck vise. So I then chucked the punch into the drill press; the punch has a textured handling surface less less likely to slip. Note that this toggle has been re-blued. I'm wondering if that was why the pin was so tight. Plenty of pressure, then a "bang", and the whole thing was apart.

I cleaned out ancient sludge where the pin had held the s-link into the rear toggle, then used the mallet to start the pin. It was tight going back together, but the pin went in much easier than it came out.

Pistol is now reassembled and function checked.

There you have it. I've now 100% dissembled a P 08 including the toggle, S-link and sear plunger assembly. Having done it, I would not recommend disassembly of the toggle and sear plunger absent an issue - the grime removed was not that significant, and the risk of marring the parts or losing the spring was always present. But, for those like me, who cannot leave perfectly functional P 08s alone, or who enjoy the challenge, use at your risk and as you wish.

This photo shows the 3/32" punch mounted in the drill press, which was used to remove the pin, just before I pressed the pin back in.

This is now a sticky, and I have added the content to the FAQ. Thank you!!! Marc

It's a very neat trick for light duty press jobs, and much easier to use than a large press when you're dealing with small parts. I have a cheap drill press ($60 from Lowe's) that I use almost exclusively as a press, and I have turned an assortment of arbors to use for different things. For example, it works great for pressing in the escutcheons in the reproduction grips I make. Just have to go careful on stubborn pins, I don't know how much pressure the table really can take and I don't want to find out either. :eek:

The table is sturdier than the drill press. The drill press is a modest Delta. All force was applied with one hand to the press arm while seated, so I'd call the force to push the pins out "significant" but not "great".

Good show!
Most important part is if those pins don't need attention- leave them alone! ;)

Either area can be lubed using a "needle" oiler.
The sear plunger can be freed up or lubed by soaking in some penetrating oil for an hour or 10!

I'm talking about the adjustable table on the drill press. Mine will flex a bit if I press hard enough, so it can probably snap off the column if I press hard enough. I'm just waiting for one of those really old floor models to show up for sale, they are extremely solid and would be perfect for this purpose. They are fairly inexpensive, and you can get one for next to nothing if it doesn't work.

And where's the sport in that? :p

Olle, you think like me. Less than a year ago this rookie bought his first Luger. A friend and colleague (Doc at my hospital) at my LGS gave me some wise advice, "Whatever you do don't take it apart! It is really complicated!

So what did I do the first night I owned it? I took it apart. :rolleyes:

I did not know jack about P.08s, but UTube videos were marvelously helpful. No, I did not take the s-link pin out or the sear plunger, but I had that puppy in pieces for a complete field strip.

Why? Well, to paraphrase Ollie, what fun would that be not to take it all apart. No reason needed, just ignorant bliss and a burning curiosity.

Now having said that, I do respect Don V's sage advice in general. But, sometimes you just want to jump in with both feet for the fun of it. :jumper:

I have enough things to do without creating more!

I was changing the gears on my lathe an hour ago, laid down one of the gears, now I can't find it. So I try to limit unnecessary work!:eek:

... :roflmao: ... Funny! (Yeah; like that never happened to me!) :p

On my two Lugers with suspect sear plungers, both had pins that tapped right out, no pressure needed. IIRC, I used a brad and a tiny hammer. :)

I have tried to get the S link pin out on a couple of Lugers in the past and they wouldn't budge so I gave up. Very difficult!

I'm still looking for the gear, I've now convinced myself that the cat got it to play with or else it was never shipped!:p

Those little pins will come out with a small(regular size) old fashioned paper clip- easily- or else they don't want to come out at all!
I've also used a "push pin" with the point filed flat- again, works like a charm if the pin co-operates.

The hook pin- better make a starte rpunch and a fixture to hold the piece, if they don't move easily.

Q-tip cleaning tool
 

I recently cleaned the sear plunger channel on a Portuguese Army Model 1906 shooter. It was operating just fine, but I find it fun to take apart shooters. My references show DWM delivered this contract around 1909 so the pistol is approximately 108 years old. I found a lot of grime at the channel base and pipe cleaners didn't seem to be doing the job.

A modified Q-Tip helped. The photo below shows a normal Q-tip, the cotton torn off by me, the finished "tool", and the sear bar showing the tight but workable fit of the Q-Tip paper shaft into the plunger channel. Twisting helps. Channel is ready for another 108 years.;)

I have one of those, an old 'Buffalo Forge' table top press made sometime in the 40's, fitted with a 1/2" Jacob's chuck. I found that the table would slide down under hard pressure no matter how tight the clamp was. So I cut several 4x4's to place under the table so it couldn't slide down. :thumbup:

It also doubles as a press. I don't trust it to drill perfectly perpendicular to the table, but for most drilling jobs it is adequate. :rolleyes: