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-   -   1942 BYF Mixmaster won't shoot! (https://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=34832)

3Horses 09-28-2015 06:13 PM

1942 BYF Mixmaster won't shoot!
 
I guys, I just finally got my 1st P08. I wanted a shooter. So all #'s didn't have to match. Got a Mauser, love my Mauser P38, Awesome gun!
S0, I started out, with the original WWII PO8 mag. Shoots Great! Per 1 round. Stovepipes every shell. tried 3 different makers, of bullets etc.
Just got a Mec-Gar magazine today. Figured finally get to play with her!
Still stovepipes, every round. But the magazine feeds in the next round to battery.
Ejector problem?
Ejector is squared off at the bottom, so not broke. Springs up and down, NO Problem!
Fully, Fully cleaned the gun.
just asked the seller to return it, unless you guys can help me fix her.
Thanks for your help here, Terry

Diver6106 09-28-2015 06:30 PM

Make sure it is well lubricated and action is clean - no globs of WWII dirt on slide/ toggle/ spring/ etc. Every one of the Luger's I bought had parts that had NEVER been cleaned and lubricated. Some required attention to work properly. Then shoot it with a firm wrist. Also insure that the main spring is not a wrong size replacement.
http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=34792

DonVoigt 09-28-2015 07:08 PM

Tell us precisely what ammo you have tried.

3Horses 09-29-2015 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonVoigt (Post 277747)
Tell us precisely what ammo you have tried.

Freedom munitions (new) not their reloads, Winchester, and Aquila. Even tried my reloads, which I tried making hotter for this pistol.
Terry

3Horses 09-29-2015 08:55 AM

I red more posts here. Holding left hand under magazine pushing up. Will try. Gun is fully cleaned and lubed.
Also need to concentrate on limp wrist. Not used to worrying about that.
Going to load 124 gr RN. Should I put tape on the rear where the bolt (toggle) goes back? To see if it cuts it? Read about that somewhere.
thanks Terry

Karl 09-29-2015 09:02 AM

Terry,
I suggest that you first test the action (cycle the action) with the toggle hook disconnected from the recoil spring to feel for any binding, such as from a bent frame rail or warped receiver.
If the action is not binding then reconnect the spring and cycle the action by hand (pull toggle back and release) with a full magazine and observe (do this at a range).
If that works, load a single round (with the magazine in place) and fire. If the toggle does not lock back it could mean that the recoil spring is too strong or the ammo too weak.
KFS

3Horses 09-29-2015 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Karl (Post 277758)
Terry,
I suggest that you first test the action (cycle the action) with the toggle hook disconnected from the recoil spring to feel for any binding, such as from a bent frame rail or warped receiver.
If the action is not binding then reconnect the spring and cycle the action by hand (pull toggle back and release) with a full magazine and observe (do this at a range).
If that works, load a single round (with the magazine in place) and fire. If the toggle does not lock back it could mean that the recoil spring is too strong or the ammo too weak.
KFS

Thank you for that info. Will try this afternoon, when I get home from work.

3Horses 09-29-2015 05:22 PM

Is there supposed to be a spring in the rear of the ejector? I made a mistake talking about the extractor. It looks good!
I'm questionable about my extractor, now.
terry

3Horses 09-29-2015 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Karl (Post 277758)
Terry,
I suggest that you first test the action (cycle the action) with the toggle hook disconnected from the recoil spring to feel for any binding, such as from a bent frame rail or warped receiver.
If the action is not binding then reconnect the spring and cycle the action by hand (pull toggle back and release) with a full magazine and observe (do this at a range).
If that works, load a single round (with the magazine in place) and fire. If the toggle does not lock back it could mean that the recoil spring is too strong or the ammo too weak.
KFS

Action feels real good disconnected. Nice and smooth!
Just tested with a full magazine. Shells won't eject out, by just cocking back and forth. I believe the ejector is broke.
Any dimensions?
Is there a spring in the rear end of it?
I don't have one.
Terry

3Horses 09-29-2015 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Karl (Post 277758)
Terry,
I suggest that you first test the action (cycle the action) with the toggle hook disconnected from the recoil spring to feel for any binding, such as from a bent frame rail or warped receiver.
If the action is not binding then reconnect the spring and cycle the action by hand (pull toggle back and release) with a full magazine and observe (do this at a range).
If that works, load a single round (with the magazine in place) and fire. If the toggle does not lock back it could mean that the recoil spring is too strong or the ammo too weak.
KFS

Full magazine loaded, pulled the toggle back, bullet comes out with the extractor, but then just sits there.
it should eject it correct????
Thanks terry

DavidJayUden 09-29-2015 06:04 PM

Yes, there is a flat spring on the right side with a hook in it that sticks inside and bumps the rim when it gets that far back, sending it flying. Sounds like you are "hookless".
Closeup photos of the thin metal strip on the right rear side of the gun, and inside looking down on the mag well with the toggle back will help us.
But it sounds like you have found your problem.
Good job!
dju

Karl 09-29-2015 07:39 PM

Terry,
To clarify: the extractor is on the top of the breach block. It pivots back and forth like a seesaw via a small pin through the breach block and it does have a coil spring in the back. (If you did not remove and clean this before it should be cleaned).
The ejector is a one-piece spring attached to the side of the receiver. The front end of it, the "hook" as described by David above, rests in a groove cut into the side of the breech block.
Both parts are prone to breakage. "Lugerdoc" on this forum is likely to have replacements. Original replacement parts are desirable and worth the expense. The aftermarket parts don't work very well and typically require fussing with. In my opinion, depending on the terms of the sale, if the gun was sold to you with a broken part you should attempt to resolve the matter with the seller.
KFS

DTR04 09-29-2015 08:12 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Lock the toggle back on an empty magazine. Look at the right inner side at the front of the breechblock and you should see the ejector (circled in red) protruding through the side rail. Check that it moves freely and has spring tension.

3Horses 09-29-2015 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Karl (Post 277758)
Terry,
I suggest that you first test the action (cycle the action) with the toggle hook disconnected from the recoil spring to feel for any binding, such as from a bent frame rail or warped receiver.
If the action is not binding then reconnect the spring and cycle the action by hand (pull toggle back and release) with a full magazine and observe (do this at a range).
If that works, load a single round (with the magazine in place) and fire. If the toggle does not lock back it could mean that the recoil spring is too strong or the ammo too weak.
KFS

.
I forgot to test fire the single round, and see if the toggle holds back. Crap, I forgot to try it. I have 3 horses here in front of shooting range, and i'm installing an outdoor woodstove. Busy, busy, and just forgot to try. Tomorrow is another day! Still the ejector looks not right to me. Thanks again Terry

3Horses 09-30-2015 04:20 AM

Picshttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...psczgogo1q.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...psxidcvkzq.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...psvc3bnoqq.jpg

sheepherder 09-30-2015 09:07 AM

Here's a pic of the parts on a P-08 -

http://forum.lugerforum.com/attachme...7&d=1442453072

From your pics, your ejector seems intact. As for the extractor, it does get full of crud.

Field strip the gun, use a paperclip or small rod [drill bit] to push the extractor pin out of the breechblock. The pin should not be difficult to remove. Hold your finger over the extractor so the spring doesn't fly out. Clean everything out good, use the paperclip/rod/drill to put it back together. Check the extractor nose for chips. Clean out the notch in the barrel where it fits in.

Karl 09-30-2015 09:50 AM

Quote: "Full magazine loaded, pulled the toggle back, bullet comes out with the extractor, but then just sits there.
it should eject it correct????
Thanks terry"

Terry,
Yes bullet should eject with toggle pulled back, even when pulled back slowly. Your photos show that the ejector is intact, but it doesn't seem to protrude in toward the breech face very much.

It is possible that there is crud between the ejector and receiver that is preventing its full travel. Check for travel by slowly pulling the toggle back until you see the extractor is even with the breech face. It should be all the way into the cutout in the breech face. If not, remove and clean.

The ejector is a bit of a trick to remove and install. There may be directions posted here somewhere.
KFS

kurusu 09-30-2015 10:35 AM

That ejector doesn't seem very healthy to me. With the open breechblock, the front part of the ejector should get well into the frame. In your third picture that is not very evident. Could be the angle of the picture though.

DavidJayUden 09-30-2015 10:39 AM

I guess the test would be to use a dummy round, or maybe an empty hull, chamber it and then pull back the toggle to see if the rim hits the ejector hits it and ejects it.
dju

kurusu 09-30-2015 10:53 AM

3 Attachment(s)
This is what I mean.
Attachment 52292
Attachment 52293
Attachment 52294


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