1942 BYF Mixmaster won't shoot!
 

I guys, I just finally got my 1st P08. I wanted a shooter. So all #'s didn't have to match. Got a Mauser, love my Mauser P38, Awesome gun!
S0, I started out, with the original WWII PO8 mag. Shoots Great! Per 1 round. Stovepipes every shell. tried 3 different makers, of bullets etc.
Just got a Mec-Gar magazine today. Figured finally get to play with her!
Still stovepipes, every round. But the magazine feeds in the next round to battery.
Ejector problem?
Ejector is squared off at the bottom, so not broke. Springs up and down, NO Problem!
Fully, Fully cleaned the gun.
just asked the seller to return it, unless you guys can help me fix her.
Thanks for your help here, Terry

Make sure it is well lubricated and action is clean - no globs of WWII dirt on slide/ toggle/ spring/ etc. Every one of the Luger's I bought had parts that had NEVER been cleaned and lubricated. Some required attention to work properly. Then shoot it with a firm wrist. Also insure that the main spring is not a wrong size replacement.
http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=34792

Tell us precisely what ammo you have tried.

Freedom munitions (new) not their reloads, Winchester, and Aquila. Even tried my reloads, which I tried making hotter for this pistol.
Terry

I red more posts here. Holding left hand under magazine pushing up. Will try. Gun is fully cleaned and lubed.
Also need to concentrate on limp wrist. Not used to worrying about that.
Going to load 124 gr RN. Should I put tape on the rear where the bolt (toggle) goes back? To see if it cuts it? Read about that somewhere.
thanks Terry

Terry,
I suggest that you first test the action (cycle the action) with the toggle hook disconnected from the recoil spring to feel for any binding, such as from a bent frame rail or warped receiver.
If the action is not binding then reconnect the spring and cycle the action by hand (pull toggle back and release) with a full magazine and observe (do this at a range).
If that works, load a single round (with the magazine in place) and fire. If the toggle does not lock back it could mean that the recoil spring is too strong or the ammo too weak.
KFS

Thank you for that info. Will try this afternoon, when I get home from work.

Is there supposed to be a spring in the rear of the ejector? I made a mistake talking about the extractor. It looks good!
I'm questionable about my extractor, now.
terry

Action feels real good disconnected. Nice and smooth!
Just tested with a full magazine. Shells won't eject out, by just cocking back and forth. I believe the ejector is broke.
Any dimensions?
Is there a spring in the rear end of it?
I don't have one.
Terry

Full magazine loaded, pulled the toggle back, bullet comes out with the extractor, but then just sits there.
it should eject it correct????
Thanks terry

Yes, there is a flat spring on the right side with a hook in it that sticks inside and bumps the rim when it gets that far back, sending it flying. Sounds like you are "hookless".
Closeup photos of the thin metal strip on the right rear side of the gun, and inside looking down on the mag well with the toggle back will help us.
But it sounds like you have found your problem.
Good job!
dju

Terry,
To clarify: the extractor is on the top of the breach block. It pivots back and forth like a seesaw via a small pin through the breach block and it does have a coil spring in the back. (If you did not remove and clean this before it should be cleaned).
The ejector is a one-piece spring attached to the side of the receiver. The front end of it, the "hook" as described by David above, rests in a groove cut into the side of the breech block.
Both parts are prone to breakage. "Lugerdoc" on this forum is likely to have replacements. Original replacement parts are desirable and worth the expense. The aftermarket parts don't work very well and typically require fussing with. In my opinion, depending on the terms of the sale, if the gun was sold to you with a broken part you should attempt to resolve the matter with the seller.
KFS

Lock the toggle back on an empty magazine. Look at the right inner side at the front of the breechblock and you should see the ejector (circled in red) protruding through the side rail. Check that it moves freely and has spring tension.

.
I forgot to test fire the single round, and see if the toggle holds back. Crap, I forgot to try it. I have 3 horses here in front of shooting range, and i'm installing an outdoor woodstove. Busy, busy, and just forgot to try. Tomorrow is another day! Still the ejector looks not right to me. Thanks again Terry

Picshttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...psczgogo1q.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...psxidcvkzq.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...psvc3bnoqq.jpg

Here's a pic of the parts on a P-08 -

http://forum.lugerforum.com/attachme...7&d=1442453072

From your pics, your ejector seems intact. As for the extractor, it does get full of crud.

Field strip the gun, use a paperclip or small rod [drill bit] to push the extractor pin out of the breechblock. The pin should not be difficult to remove. Hold your finger over the extractor so the spring doesn't fly out. Clean everything out good, use the paperclip/rod/drill to put it back together. Check the extractor nose for chips. Clean out the notch in the barrel where it fits in.

Quote: "Full magazine loaded, pulled the toggle back, bullet comes out with the extractor, but then just sits there.
it should eject it correct????
Thanks terry"

Terry,
Yes bullet should eject with toggle pulled back, even when pulled back slowly. Your photos show that the ejector is intact, but it doesn't seem to protrude in toward the breech face very much.

It is possible that there is crud between the ejector and receiver that is preventing its full travel. Check for travel by slowly pulling the toggle back until you see the extractor is even with the breech face. It should be all the way into the cutout in the breech face. If not, remove and clean.

The ejector is a bit of a trick to remove and install. There may be directions posted here somewhere.
KFS

That ejector doesn't seem very healthy to me. With the open breechblock, the front part of the ejector should get well into the frame. In your third picture that is not very evident. Could be the angle of the picture though.

I guess the test would be to use a dummy round, or maybe an empty hull, chamber it and then pull back the toggle to see if the rim hits the ejector hits it and ejects it.
dju

This is what I mean.
Attachment 52292
Attachment 52293
Attachment 52294

Yes to what Kurusu showed.
Sometimes the ejector binds in the slot, you may have to remove it and do a little fitting with a fine file.

This occurs most often with aftermarket ejectors, but could plague any Luger.

Sounds like a Numrich ejector... :D

Also occurs when a new owner attempts to 'straw' the ejector and it loses its temper and takes a 'set'... :(

Also occurs when it's about to break. :(

It doesn't look like a new part.

I wouldn't use a file for this, no matter how fine, it will be difficult on such a hard part as the ejector.

A fine grit emery paper on a known flat surface (such as glass or machined steel) will work wonders on polishing the contact surfaces (top and bottom) of the ejector until it moves smoothly in the upper receiver.

:typing: Also check the breechblock for burrs in the ejector slot that might inhibit free movement.

K, Your photos do show an ejector installed. I agree with Karl, that it may be sticking and not free to move in & out enough. I do have both vg to exc original ejectors in stock in the $50 to $75 range, but even these may require fitting to your pistol. Tom

True on a file, but these ejectors are not always "hard" though maybe they should be.

One can also use a diamond embedded needle file, they come in pretty handy for small spots too.

Polishing after goes without saying, but I should/could have said so!.:eek:

Used a dummy round. When I pull back the toggle, the ejector goes right past the shell. DOES NOT HIT IT!
I took apart and cleaned all the innards, then emery clothed the edges, put in upside down and it slides in the slot no problem.
Still does not touch the shell rim.
I believe this is the problem, agreed?
Thanks for your help.
Terry

Yes, that is a problem if not the problem.

Only one thing, you can't put the ejector in "upside down".,,,

Does the front of the ejector spring flex inward with each shot? If not there may be gunk behind it.
See KURUSU's photos on page one.
dju

Yes. That seems to be the problem. I believe, from your pictures, that the ejector in your pistol might have reached the end of its useful life. And that Lugerdoc is offering the best solution to you problem

Just so happens a buddy of mine has a friend with a luger. We put his extractor on my pistol, and bingo. Shot 50-60 rds thru her. Groups GREAT! Functions just fine! Even the OLD, original Nazi magazine shoots real well! Thought at first it was a magazine problem.
Got an original EFURT extractor from ebay 45.00 shipped. From Columbia, MO. Is that Lugerdoc?
Thanks so much for all your help here! It is so fun to get a gun up and running!
And actually, It shoots my reloads, with NO PROBLEM!
take care Terry

Extractor or EJECTOR???:confused:

Extractor didn't seem to be a problem???

Ejector is the problem, sorry about that!
Boy, I get one thing on my mind and it just stays there!
This ejector, if I kind of bend it acts like its going to snap in half. You can just feel the metal separating. Has no spring what so ever.
Terry
Bought one from Lugerdoc, that he had on ebay. Original for 45.00 shipped.

Thanks it makes sense now.
Glad your problem is solved!

Ditto.

3H, The one that you purchased wasn't from me. Hopefully it is an original. TH

This was posted by the OP earlier in this thread.

Please tell me what "STRAW" the ejector means?
I've read this several times now, learning about these pistols.
Thanks for the info lesson!
TerryR

Lugerdoc, sorry about that, I thought it was you. I asked on the AR15 forum, as I'm dealing with the seller of this pistol to help compensate, as he sold me a pistol that doesn't operate. I'm now figuring out why from you guys here.
Yes, the ejector, is a efurt one. He's selling as it as original used.
Hope I did ok here?
TerryR
Still not recvd yet, was to be here yesterday.

Terry,

The color that steel's surface molecules turn depends on the temperature to which it is heated. "Straw" is one of the colors on this spectrum, at the low end. It was used until early 1937 as standard treatment of certain small parts on German military Lugers. It was a classy cosmetic accent from the beginning, but abandoned due to concerns of expense and time when Germany needed lots of guns, fast. There are stickies somewhere on our site that explain how to do it. It is true Toaster Oven Magic.