E. I have new German made locking bolt springs in stock @$25 postpaid. Depending on your luger, you may have to use some of the above mentioned techniques to get it installed. TH

Let me know how to pay you, check, CC, or Paypal and what the total will be on one and two. I'm thinking about getting two just in case. I don't have all the spring out, the holes in the bottom isn't open yet. That's not a problem I just don't have the punch yet.

Doc I got the spring out using a thumbtack, so now all I need is the spring from you. Do you think I should get all the springs thinking they all must be near retirement or just replace the Bolt spring?:)

My $.02...I bought a repro locking bolt spring from a member here, and after positioning it in the hole/groove the bolt would not go in... :soapbox:

After 15 or 20 frustrating minutes, I finally just pushed down on the 90º angle part of the spring with a brass punch and it 'popped' in place. Then it was just a matter of inserting the bolt and pushing down on the 'tab' of the bolt to get it to enter the hole on the other side. :thumbup:

Want to thank everybody for helping me with this problem. I'm new to working on the Luger and as you already know it's design is quite different compared to other semi- auto's. I work with Sig's, 1911's, Beretta's and other pistols of similar design. I must say the Luger is a precision piece of equipment, and I see why it's followers are passionate about this pistol. Those Germans sure know engineering to close tolerances. I'm amazed that this design is even older than the 1911. Again thank you for your help and understanding, it is appreciated.

Best to everyone, Elapid--<

OK I'm back with more questions on this Locking Bolt. I have a new spring, thank you LugerDoc, and now I have been trying to push it in the hole and am having fits. I've been messing with it for an hour and just can't get the spring to push all the way into the hole. I tried pushing up on the end of the spring thinking that would help everything line up but so far no luck. Does anybody have any tips or tricks on getting the spring in the hole?

You know a picture or two would help.:confused:

Without any basis, I'll say the spring it too big, or the groove it fits in is peened slightly and won't let it seat.

If a tap with a soft punch won't seat it, work on the above.

It's awfully small to try and get a clear picture. What diameter is the hole? I might try reaming it out if I know I'm using the same size bit. I would do this all by hand, don't want to put a drill on it.

I got the spring seated, used some 800 grit paper to polish the end of the spring. Having problems pushing the bolt down to line up with the hole and drift it in place, is this a three hand job?

Three(or four) would help, but you can do it with just two and a padded surface or vise.

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showpost...6&postcount=14

I'll add checking for a burr to the above, next time!

I was already thinking a vice would help a good bit. Probably use wood blocks to hold the frame.

Did Spin a drill bit by hand to get any burrs out. I'm thinkng a vice to hold the frame and a C clamp with blocks of wood that will position the bolt up to the hole so I can have two hands to drift the bolt in. I just don't want to cause any damage to the Luger, I think that might make me cry, probably in a bottle of Bourbon. :crying:

Gave up tonight, if I get to frustrated bad things can happen so I just call it a night. I have days to get the Luger working, but only one Luger!