Luger gunsmithing

[rimfire]

Hi, all. I have a swiss mod.29 black grip #6799x which has a problem ejecting. It will stove-pipe on every shot.

This is an odd luger in that the breech block would get suck at mid-stroke when moving the block by hand.

Its almost as if the frame had been "pinched" together at one time. I did some careful stoning of the frame and made the block move much more smoothly but it still jams on every shot.

Before I screw it up, I would appreciate any recommendations of good gunsmiths who know their swiss lugers and can help me out with this gun.

Thanks, guys-

Jim

[Pete Ebbink]

From your profile, it looks like you are in Virginia.

This might help members know to help find a local gun smith near you...

[LugerVern]

Hi Jim

Does your gun stove- pipe on the empty, on the new round or a combination?
If your empties are being ejected cleanly then itâ??s a feeding problem and I would first look at the magazine, try a different one.
If your empties arenâ??t being ejected, you may still have binding as you said earlier or the ejector could be bent or weak, this can also cause binding of your action.
Sometimes an extractor can bite too hard and cause the spent casing to remain in the gun but this is uncommon unless you have replaced it or the spring.
If you have replaced your main spring the action may be returning too fast, this can cause the bullet to bounce on the ramp resulting in a stove-pipe. Polishing your ramp might solve this.
I have seen weak main springs cause this same problem, the toggle is so stressed on recoil that it snaps back slamming into the case causing it to bounce up and stove-pipe.

Poor magazines are the culprit in many a luger feeding problem, always eliminate this first before messing with your gun. Do this before taking your gun to the shop also.

If you go with a gunsmith try and get a good one with references, donâ??t just drop it off at the nearest gun shop, many local gunsmiths are clueless on lugers. Talk to your gunsmith and find out their history and experience level. I know shipping your gun adds to expense but it is sometimes a better way to go. There are some true luger experts here on the forum.

Let us know how you make out-- and what the problem was, the idea is that we learn from each other.

Good Luck

Vern

[rimfire]

Thanks, Vern-

It stovepipes on the empties. My thinking was that the bolt was not retracting enough or with enough force. I got the slide to move as smoothly as I could, but there is still a very slight bind. I must say I am surprised that the Luger is that sensitive, an .30 round going is a pretty good pop. That's why I've stopped, concerned I may be adjusting the wrong thing.

Jim

[John Sabato]

If your extractor and ejector are in good shape, it sounds like underpowered ammunition to me...

[LugerVern]

Jim

John may be right on the weak ammunition, I was reading on the forum and G. van Vlimmeren suggested the use of tape on the rear of a frame to check for over travel, I had forgotten all about this method, but it could be used to help you resolve your problem too. If the tape is not indented then your toggle is not fully retracting, poor ammunition or binding, if on the other hand it is indented then you need to look at the ejector or maybe the extractor in that order.

-Paper torn: Spring too weak/ load to powerful
-Paper dented: All is fine.
-Paper not touched or hardly touched: Spring too strong / load to weak.

Hope you donâ??t mind me using your ideas G. Van, I had forgotten all about that luger trick and was happy to be reminded of it again.


Vern

[Lugerdoc]

Jim, It's difficult to diagnose jamming problems with the pistol in hand, let alone without seeing it. I would certainly try a new qualitiy mag and a different brand of ammo first, and if that doesn't solve the problem, polish your feed ramps and try a softer recoil spring. If a new extractor or ejector is required, I do have most M29 Swiss proofed parts in stock. TH

[rimfire]

Hi, all. Thanks for your suggestions. This time I went back with a dremel with felt pad and abrasive. The "sticky" spot is now gone, and I might have the smoothest action on a luger ever... Smooth as butter...

But--- it still jammed. However sometimes the you over-analyze a problem. As it turns out the extractor spring is broken... Boy do I feel stupid! Lugerdoc I need an extractor spring...

Jim

[Vlim]

Vern,

No problem: I learned that trick on this forum as well

[Lugerdoc]

Jim, I do have new extractor springs available @$5 post paid. TH

[rimfire]

Thanks, I misspoke, I needed an ejector.

Jim

[azlaw]

Just a general comment:

I don't know anything about Luger gunsmithing, but I have done work on old guns. Any process that removes metal (a "subtractive" process) should be the *very last* thing you do to fix something on an old gun. Old guns develop problems because they have too little metal due to wear, not because they have too much (unless new parts have been added and need fitting). I have seen some valuable old guns made irrepairable because someone (a gunsmith in a couple of cases) started filing or stoning in an attempt to fix some problem without really diagnosing it first. If you think you need to remove metal, be absolutely sure before you do, do not guess and "try it" because it's hard to get the metal back later if you're wrong. Do NOT assume that a gunsmith knows anything about old guns - they should, but they don't always - and they are capable of some real butchery that cannot later be fixed.

Just my .02

H

[rimfire]

Thanks, azlaw for your comments-

The slide was really binding up. I have 5 other lugers and they are all very smooth, I was really puzzled at this, as the previous owner took very good care of his pistols. I theorized that this may have been an attempt at tightening up the action, perhaps bending the frame somehow. My grandfather was a serious target shooter and I suppose if this was a "legal" method of improving his score, he would do it.

At any rate, it was a broken ejector that was causing the stove piping, and now the slide moves freely without binding. I figure the ejector possibly may broke due to the sticking slide. I'm no gunsmith either but on the other hand it's not rocket science to make 2 pieces of metal interoperate properly. A buffing wheel with abrasive takes far less metal off than a stone.

Jim

[jamese]

Jim,
did someone change the barrel, or try to ? sounds like the slide rails got twisted just a little.

my .02

Jim