How to Repair - Luger breech block wear- striker spring guide comes out

[Rickybill]

I hope that Rickybill will chime in on occasion with a report on how his breechblock is holding up.

I usually take my Luger to the range only once a year, shooting about 100 rounds in an IDPA "grudge match" against a buddy with a Martz-restored pre-war Mauser.
We probably won't do it again until next Fall, so I might not shoot my gun again for 10-11 months.
I did buy some 90gr XTPs, which I've never loaded before, so maybe there's a bit of load development in store for the Winter.
Regardless, I will report back to this thread when I do put more rounds downrange.

[Edward Tinker]

I once had a close friend do a fine weld on the rear of a breachblock for me, then we filed it clean. It lasted through many rounds and although you could tell, it wasn't that obvious.

I always assumed it was not as strong as normal, however it worked and we did it fairly quick.

The retaining pins get worn and I have had several not want to hold onto the breachblock. Just worn down.

[DonVoigt]

"The retaining pins get worn and I have had several not want to hold onto the breach block. Just worn down."

Ed,
by this I think you mean the little "lug" on the side of the retainer?
I've seen that too, and a dab of weld and reshaping will fix it.

Depending on the welder and the material used to make the weld- the weld may well be stronger and harder than the original breech block steel.

I would call it a permanent repair. JMHO.

[Rickybill]

I was very careful when reducing the repair pin to allow the firing pin and retainer to pass, so there'd be as much contact as possible between the pin and the lug on the firing pin retainer.
The stock arrangement allowed some wiggle in the fit of the retainer in the breechblock, which could create very little for the retainer lug to bear against.
I think the repaired breechblock is considerably stronger where the retainer locks into it.

[Rickybill]

Sorry for the delay, but a follow-up to my last report is necessary.
I put 100 rounds through the Luger, yesterday.
A mix of 90gr XTP over 5.2grs of N340, 85gr XTP over the same charge, and 85 over 5.0 of Unique.

The gun ran perfectly, other than one light strike, through 85 rounds, then I had a few failures to go completely into battery, and while I don't think I'd blame that on a magazine, I was using a different mag than previously.
The 90gr XTP does not have a crimp groove, and I wondered if that would cause functional issues, but hand-cycling rounds through the gun at home revealed nothing, regarding either a problem with the ammo or with the mag; ten rounds chambered and ejected fine.

Upon close examination, the repair to the breechblock had not held-up. The pin was bowed, indicating the pin itself, added to the remaining original material of the breechblock, was not sufficiently strong for extensive shooting; I think the pin would continue to bend and allow the retainer to push through, or at least protrude further from the breechblock than it should.

A piece of hardened drill rod would probably work better, as the material on either side of the firing pin bore, where the tips of the repair pin is exposed, look intact.

I think I'll be shopping for a replacement breechblock, as this one isn't matching, except for finish, and I do like to shoot, rather than just admire the gun.

[G.T.]

Hi Ricky... I have some (a) brand new old stock East German breechblocks I would sell you? Email me at: gctomeks@msn.com if you're interested, reasonably priced, first quality! Best to you, til...lat'r...GT

[DonVoigt]

Originally Posted by Rickybill

Sorry for the delay, but a follow-up to my last report is necessary.
I put 100 rounds through the Luger, yesterday.
A mix of 90gr XTP over 5.2grs of N340, 85gr XTP over the same charge, and 85 over 5.0 of Unique.

The gun ran perfectly, other than one light strike, through 85 rounds, then I had a few failures to go completely into battery, and while I don't think I'd blame that on a magazine, I was using a different mag than previously.
The 90gr XTP does not have a crimp groove, and I wondered if that would cause functional issues, but hand-cycling rounds through the gun at home revealed nothing, regarding either a problem with the ammo or with the mag; ten rounds chambered and ejected fine.

Upon close examination, the repair to the breechblock had not held-up. The pin was bowed, indicating the pin itself, added to the remaining original material of the breechblock, was not sufficiently strong for extensive shooting; I think the pin would continue to bend and allow the retainer to push through, or at least protrude further from the breechblock than it should.

A piece of hardened drill rod would probably work better, as the material on either side of the firing pin bore, where the tips of the repair pin is exposed, look intact.

I think I'll be shopping for a replacement breechblock, as this one isn't matching, except for finish, and I do like to shoot, rather than just admire the gun.

Thanks for the update.
I'm not understanding how the pin can "bow", it must/should be supported all the way across by material of the block?

Yes, a hardened pin should be used. I'm sorry I left out that my original repair was with a section of drill bit, which is hardened.

My idea for this type repair was and is to "save" a matching bolt; not to make one for sustained use. GT has the solution to that!

Thanks again for the update.

[Rickybill]

The center of the pin is supported only by the material that had previously failed; even adding the pin to the existing breechblock material was not sufficient for a true repair.
My breechblock is non-matching, so no great loss.
Will be going to Lugerman for a replacement breechblock.