G Type Collectable

I just bought a "G" Type luger and would like to know if it is a so called collectable or a so called shooter. It has wooden handles, a mag with an aluminum base, the little numbers are all the same, last two are anyway. There is some wear at the front end of the barrel and on the piece that is just above the trigger. Can anyone help me?

[tom]

Yes, G-date Lugers are highly collectable; that is assuming they haven't been refinished, rebarrekled, re-gripped, chrome plated or other wise desecrated.


The g date was the second series of Lugers produced under the secretly re-arming of Germany after Hitler was elected in 1933. K-dates were the first series.


Hope this helps.


Tom

[bill m]

Hi,

Collectable or shooter depends on the over-all condition of a Luger. Whether all the serial numbers are matching, and what condition the blue and straw are in. Condition is the main key here. If it has pitting or lots of blue wear, then it is more than likely a shooter. If it is 90% original finish or better then it is probably a collector piece. The G stands for 1935. What condition would you estimate you gun to be in?

I am not familiar with this term?

Some of the numbers on the gun are the same and others are not. Some have four digits and the others have two. Some parts are blue and some are sort of golden. There is no pitting, but there is some blue that has worn from the front end and the piece on the side. Otherwise it is in good condition.

[Rick K]

Hey Zeus!


I've been on this forum for a while now, and one thing I've noticed since I've been here is, that the type of typers that you find on this type forum, may not add up to the type of typers, that you may be used to typing with.

[Frank]

Zeus, if you would give us some more data, we could be more help. On the left margin there is a section of Technical Information, then Identification Sheets. Try your best to provide as much of the data you can. Good luck!!

Evaluating a luger is somewhat complicated but whatever you do==until you have some idea of its value--do not alter it in ANY way. Rebluing, cleaning, even oiling should be done following a safe procedure. The value effect of making a mistake is very disappointing and 90% of luger "shooters" were accidents done by folks new to lugers.


If you shoot the gun (one of the first things a new owner likes to do) remove the original stocks and substitute new replacements as the orig stocks are very fragile after 65 years. They are numbered to that very pistol as are the firing pin and other internal parts. Orig stocks, even without the pistol, are worth up to $100 a pair if not cracked or damaged.


Congratulations on a nice luger. G-dates are quite well made and attractive in original finish.

[Rick K]

I just meant, "Don't be surprised if you get some typographical errors"!

Zeus,


He hit the wrong key. He meant "rebarreled", that the barrel had been replaced.

[Rick K]

[Big Norm]

You are correct in your response in the rebarreling of lugers. But also under this broad catagory would be the re-reaming of the barrel and the instertion of a liner which is re-rifled or bored. This was less frequently done than just replacing the barrel. But at one time, luger barrels were harder to get than they are now.

Big Norm

[Big Norm]

I forgot to mention that with any re-lining the barrel, you do not have to worry about renumbering and re-proofmarking the new barrel. This can be difficult for tickerers to do right. So tinkerers can make it appear acceptable to newbes who think that the bore is mint. So warning, if the bore looks too good for the condition of the rest of the gun, look closer and beware. This is another reason why collectors do not want restored guns. Restoration makes it harder to see alterations. An 'honest' gun is preferred over a restored gun by collectors.


In Michigan, we used to have two 1917 artilleries floating around that had the frames renumbered. Very illegal. Only an experienced collector with very good eyes would have noticed the size difference in the numbering.

[Thor]

I have shot a couple of Lugers with relined barrels. The person that did these must have known his stuff cause they were very accurate! Thor

[Thor]

Norm, I have noticed when I reworked a Luger barrel that had been relined it was very hard to see until I stripped the bluing off the muzzle and I could see the tell tale "ring" of the liner. This can again be made to dissapear from the naked eye by extreme polishing! So beware is right! Thor

I have looked in the Technical Section and tried to match the part names with the photograph numbers. Becoming frustrated, I then went to the disassembly instructions and tried to at least get the names of the parts correct. When I am not sure, I will just describe the part the best I can.


I looked in the Ownersâ?? Corner and found a photo that could describe my gun. It is for SteveM, 1936 Mauser S/42. The only difference is that the photo shows more wear on the front part of the barrel and also on the rectangular part of the Trigger (Slide) Plate. Mine has some wear, just not that much. The gold colored parts appear a little more silvery on mine, but they do have a golden hue.


There are numbers all over the gun, mostly 91, but some 154, some 92, several 691, one 698, one 882 and three marks without numbers. There are so many, I wonder how many I may have missed.


On the left side, beginning in the front, a W and 154 in a small box, then a 691, then four 91â??s and finally what looks to be a Germanic Eagle on the little bump for the operating mechanism. When the safety is operated a word â??GESICHERTâ?� appears in the down position.


On the right side, beginning in the rear, the same W and 154 as on the other side, then an S and 92, also in a box, then something that looks like a shell, then another Germanic Eagle.


On the top, beginning in the front, a G, then 91, then a sidewise S/42, then another 91, then another 91 on the top of the safety.


On the bottom, beginning in the front, a 691, then a 882, with what appears to be a small slash between the two 8â??s, then on the bottom of the clip a 698, the a small d, then another Germanic Eagle with very small 154 beneath it.


On the front, beginning on the top, under the muzzle is a 691, the sort of down a little lower a small d.


On the back, the only number I see is a 91 almost at the top.


When I take the gun apart, there are more 91â??s. Please forgive the part names here. The inside of both wooden handles each have a 91 imprinted in the wood. The big pin on the back of the mechanism and the hold open lever both have 91â??s. Then, the very front on the mechanism, just under the Germanic Eagle that I noted on the left side little bump and on the pin with a nipple on it, I am guessing the firing pin, have 91â??s.


I am sure I have missed some, but I donâ??t want to disassemble the gun anymore. This process has been a real learning experience. I had no idea of all the different markings.


I am sorry I do not have a digital camera, else I could supply a photo.


Besides being made in 1935, can anyone supply any more information?