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Unread 05-02-2018, 11:21 AM   #1
G.T.
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Default Loose front sight cure???

Hi to all, when installing barrels, new or otherwise, I have consistently found that the front sight dovetail is cut TOO BIG on the barrels!
Seldom on the original barrels, and seemingly always on the aftermarket?...... I spend a lot of time looking for oversize front sights to fill this need? What if any, method, has anyone discovered that is a good way to tighten the front sight, while still allowing some remaining tension for adjustment? And, of course, not visible from the outside look?... Let me know your thoughts... Best to all, til....lat'r.....GT
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Unread 05-02-2018, 11:24 AM   #2
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Have you tried punching one or two dimples in the slot for the sight? That might upset the metal enough, particularly if the punch is at a slight angle to raise the metal more on one side to tighten up the fit.
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Unread 05-02-2018, 12:04 PM   #3
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Tis nothing like the originals huh G.T.?...........

The dimpling of the flat of the dovetail is one fix. I have tried it a time or two myself with varying results. My own problem there and the fit that I had to start with.

Of course, depends on how loose is loose.

One can use a round piece(polished flat nose) of stock and hammer; to place a hit on each side of the top of the dovetail(round(?) stock covers the whole top half of dovetail). This is intended to displace the relatively soft material of the barrel proper down towards the bore line, ie squeezing the dimensional criteria of the dovetail if you will, the slanting surfaces downward.........hence more grip on said insert sight. Kinda similar to pinging the shoulder of a barrel for timing in some instances.

Use of the hammer is of course subjective, not talking Jethro type blows, common sense should prevail if the result is going to be ok or not(remember barrel steel is pretty soft). I have no place to talk on hammer useage, but to start with lighter blows is more better.
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Unread 05-02-2018, 01:14 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Wood View Post
Have you tried punching one or two dimples in the slot for the sight?
I use this method for my 1911 front sights. 20 or 25 'dimples' applied with a sharp pointed punch or similar object. And a brass drift with the slide/barrel held in a padded vise.

If it is so loose that you can stick a paperclip between the dovetail and the sight, then you're SOL.

Edit: I misread Ron's post. What I do is stipple the bottom of the sight, not the dovetail.
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Last edited by sheepherder; 05-02-2018 at 06:31 PM.
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Unread 05-02-2018, 01:36 PM   #5
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How about a bead of silver solder on the bottom of the sight, filed down enough to give the desired fit? That way you won't have to mess with the barrel.
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Unread 05-02-2018, 05:14 PM   #6
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What Rick W. said. +1

If it is just "slightly loose" what ever that is , use a drop loctite.
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Unread 05-02-2018, 05:27 PM   #7
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Try a steel rod that spans both sides of the dovetail but still there is clearance between rod and bottom of dovetail. Lay the rod perpindickle to bore on top of dovetail and give a light rap with a small hammer.
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Unread 05-02-2018, 05:37 PM   #8
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One of the things about this forum is that one can get ideas on how to etc. Does not mean that one has to do it that way, but at least you got exposed to that point of context.

To me, all of the methods have some pluses and minuses; such is life I guess.

The punch pricking of the bottom surface of the dovetail is fairly easy to do, tis hidden as well.......and works fairly well. One of the issues is durability, metal will always flow to a void if it has no other choice. I am sure there are several other viewpoints on all of that.

The movement of the dovetail surfaces takes a bit of skill, and if done per Godzillas handbook, the dovetail will be in trouble. If done correctly, the mass of the front sight support helps control metal movement after the fact of tightening back to loose.

The silver solder pad idea is new to me, wonder why I do not remember it being presented before? Hard silver solder takes a bit of heat, and if to the boundary of the sight base, usually has some resistance to blues. Guess one could think of chalk or pencil a boundary around the base of the sight, but now is out of my league. Kinda a neat idea, I appreciate hearing about it.

Amount of loose is in the equation of approach to be sure.

I have always admired folks that can handle dovetails from scratch..........well. Tolerances have to be right, just amazing stuff by those that do such by hand or by machine; neither is falling off a log routine.
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Unread 05-02-2018, 11:32 PM   #9
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For the methods using "boppage," wouldn't a mandrel for the bore also be a good idea?
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Unread 05-03-2018, 09:42 AM   #10
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No more boppage was really suggested than the hits to remove or install a front sight, hence the Godzilla point. Might depend on the distance of crown from the holding medium, but there are holding mediums and then there are better holding mediums(stout barrel vise and bushings that fit) versus vise..........just an example/thought.

Use of a hammer is kinda an acquired talent, lots of folks use a hammer and mandrel to install front banded sights on hunting rifles; others use a lathe and boring bar, but many are done with hammer hits on a tapered mandrel.

I know some use extra precautions on working on firearms, such as a mandrel in the bore during certain operations, to each their own there. If you can remove the mandrel at the end of work, then one has to wonder a bit. Being an old benchrrester, it is an acquired thing; usually not on 500 dollar blanks though......at least not right away....
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Unread 05-03-2018, 10:05 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ithacaartist View Post
For the methods using "boppage," wouldn't a mandrel for the bore also be a good idea?
I amended my post; I only stipple the underside of the sight, not the bottom of the dovetail.
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Unread 05-03-2018, 10:54 AM   #12
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G.T.,

This is what I have done: crazy glue a piece of thin bronze shim stock to the bottom of the sight. Polish down the shim stock with 400 grit sand paper as needed (if needed) for a tight fit in the dovetail. The advantage is that the fix is removable with no damage to the sight or barrel.

I can send you a piece of .008 bronze shim stock.

KFS
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Unread 05-03-2018, 12:15 PM   #13
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Default sounds best so far?

Hi Karl! I was thinking along those lines using steel shim stock?.. I hadn't thought of the glue though?.. Great idea, I'm going to try it with the steel first, if not successful, I'll contact you for the tried and true bronze / brass piece?
Thanks to all for the input and ideas.. All viable, but most are for personal use, and not really what I like to do for sale items?.. But, as mentioned, most have merit... best to all, til....lat'r.....GT
BTW, I like major Toms idea as well... then, a standard front sigh can be utilized with little additional effort... ...GT
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Unread 04-10-2023, 11:30 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl View Post
G.T.,

This is what I have done: crazy glue a piece of thin bronze shim stock to the bottom of the sight. Polish down the shim stock with 400 grit sand paper as needed (if needed) for a tight fit in the dovetail. The advantage is that the fix is removable with no damage to the sight or barrel.

I can send you a piece of .008 bronze shim stock.

KFS
I know it's an old post.... but information like this is why i love forums and why i seek them out to answer questions.
I joined the forum because i was seeking advice on how to fix a loose front sight on my newly aquired 1916 DWM.

Thank you for sharing your experience.... and thank you for whoever pays to keep the lights on here.
It's an invaluable resource of specific knowledge.
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Unread 04-10-2023, 07:13 PM   #15
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Greg,

Welcome to the forum. In response to your post, in addition to John D's generous hosting of this site, many of us donate to help with the expense of "keeping the lights on." If you are so inclined, click on the donate link at the top of the page.

KFS
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