DWM Rust Bluing Formula?? - Page 3

Rod WMG · 01-08-2006, 09:53 PM

I grew up around milk cows, but not machines; it was all done by hand by the people I knew. Please educate me about what "milkstone" is. I assume it is when the milk hardened with exposure to air.

Chuckc · 01-10-2006, 11:40 PM

If anyone has found all the chemicals and is mixing them up, you should be aware that the mixture will give off fumes for a while until the mixture settles down. So, do not put it in a small container and close the lid tightly.

The book did not mention this, but anytime nitric acid mixes with iron (the ferric, in ferric chloride) there is a reaction that gives off fumes. The fumes are not all that dangerous, but they are probably not good for your guns, so don't put the mixture in your gun safe. And don't breath them. There will not be a lot of fumes and the reaction is slow.

Leave it in the garage until it settles down. Also, if you were tilting the bottle when you open it, it could spray the chemicals on you. Don't do that. If you get it on your skin, wash with water immediately. It is not a strong acid, but it would leave a burn if not washed off.

At our plant we tell people that chemicals are like guns. Treat them all like they are loaded

pipeman45 · 01-11-2006, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rod WMG
I grew up around milk cows, but not machines; it was all done by hand by the people I knew. Please educate me about what "milkstone" is. I assume it is when the milk hardened with exposure to air.

I think it's a combination of the calcium and the milk fat. Being a dumb farm boy I not real sure.It forms up like a rock,and it's darn hard to remove!!!

Fritzer · 01-11-2006, 03:08 PM

Ron S.

Has nothing to do with re-blue chemicals......
But it's nice to know you can still get

Udder Wash

and

Teat Dip

on the Internet !!!

Besides - this post gave me a chance to test out John D's latest fix

Fritz.

Revolvr · 01-11-2006, 09:33 PM

Other than Chuck's custom formulas, what commercial formulas are available for rust browning/bluing? I have seen 2 at Brownell's: Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown and Degreaser [BrownellÃ¢??s 519-100-025] and Pilkington Classic American Rust Bluing Solution [BrownellÃ¢??s 703-200-004] (which Chuck used in his comparison).

There's also BC Plum Brown, but is appears to be just for browning and is used much differently. Not sure if boiling would result in a blued finish. It also requires heating the metal to 275 degrees before applying. Possibly it would work; preheating may be just to speed the process for the modern impatient gun owner.

I plan to experiment with this over the next few weeks once I get the stuff I need. I'll post the results.

-- Dan

c3006 · 01-14-2006, 06:29 PM

Chuck
I would like to buy some of your majic potion and instructions please pm me or email me at c3006@adelphia.net with instructions on payment. Thanks clint

grenadier66 · 04-14-2009, 06:19 PM

Hey!
If you still have any let me know. Let me know the cost to ship to Georgia. eddycordell@bellsouth.net

Ice · 04-14-2009, 07:01 PM

This is a great thread. I think it would be cheaper to buy a bottle than hunt up the ingredients and make your own.

Charlie

sheepherder · 04-14-2009, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ice

This is a great thread. I think it would be cheaper to buy a bottle than hunt up the ingredients and make your own.

True...But this thread was current in 2006...Is ChuckC still around and providing the magic elixir???

I'd like to try it too...

Chuckc · 04-14-2009, 08:40 PM

Hi guys,

Chuckc is still around but not as active as I was. I made up a batch in 4 oz bottles but they are all gone. Gifts to those who got in on it. I do not anticipate doing that again. Even the small amounts are subject to the hazmat shipping regs and the cost becomes rather expensive.

I the ingredients are easy to come by, except for the nitric acid. Everyone avoids that ingredient. Shipping that stuff is done very carefully. I still have access to all that is needed, but, again getting shipped out is expensive. And not enough demand to make it a viable enterprise.

If anyone is in the Phoenix area and wanted to get together, let me know. Bring your own bottle (small) and I will personnally fill you up. I have pint or so for my personal needs.

I thought I might do some refinish work on the side now that I am retired but I am not sure about the demand. You can check out my one effort on one of these threads. I have done a few of my own and I am very pleased with the outcome.

Good luck to all those who try. And if there is interest in a Hydrochloric acid based solution, I could experiment with something like that. Muratic acid is widely available and is watered down HCL.

Chuck

01-10-2006, 11:40 PM	#42
Chuckc User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Cave Creek, AZ Posts: 68 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Warning If anyone has found all the chemicals and is mixing them up, you should be aware that the mixture will give off fumes for a while until the mixture settles down. So, do not put it in a small container and close the lid tightly. The book did not mention this, but anytime nitric acid mixes with iron (the ferric, in ferric chloride) there is a reaction that gives off fumes. The fumes are not all that dangerous, but they are probably not good for your guns, so don't put the mixture in your gun safe. And don't breath them. There will not be a lot of fumes and the reaction is slow. Leave it in the garage until it settles down. Also, if you were tilting the bottle when you open it, it could spray the chemicals on you. Don't do that. If you get it on your skin, wash with water immediately. It is not a strong acid, but it would leave a burn if not washed off. At our plant we tell people that chemicals are like guns. Treat them all like they are loaded __________________ Art in metal and wood

01-11-2006, 03:08 PM	#44
Fritzer User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Michigan Posts: 134 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Farm Supply... Ron S. Has nothing to do with re-blue chemicals...... But it's nice to know you can still get Udder Wash and Teat Dip on the Internet !!! Besides - this post gave me a chance to test out John D's latest fix Fritz.

01-14-2006, 06:29 PM	#46
c3006 User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: east tn Posts: 526 Thanks: 5 Thanked 12 Times in 5 Posts	Chuck I would like to buy some of your majic potion and instructions please pm me or email me at c3006@adelphia.net with instructions on payment. Thanks clint __________________ Men Accustomed unto thier arms and their liberties will never endure the yoke. James Harrington 1776

04-14-2009, 06:19 PM	#47
grenadier66 New User Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	send me a couple bottles Hey! If you still have any let me know. Let me know the cost to ship to Georgia. eddycordell@bellsouth.net

04-14-2009, 08:40 PM	#50
Chuckc User Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Cave Creek, AZ Posts: 68 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hi guys, Chuckc is still around but not as active as I was. I made up a batch in 4 oz bottles but they are all gone. Gifts to those who got in on it. I do not anticipate doing that again. Even the small amounts are subject to the hazmat shipping regs and the cost becomes rather expensive. I the ingredients are easy to come by, except for the nitric acid. Everyone avoids that ingredient. Shipping that stuff is done very carefully. I still have access to all that is needed, but, again getting shipped out is expensive. And not enough demand to make it a viable enterprise. If anyone is in the Phoenix area and wanted to get together, let me know. Bring your own bottle (small) and I will personnally fill you up. I have pint or so for my personal needs. I thought I might do some refinish work on the side now that I am retired but I am not sure about the demand. You can check out my one effort on one of these threads. I have done a few of my own and I am very pleased with the outcome. Good luck to all those who try. And if there is interest in a Hydrochloric acid based solution, I could experiment with something like that. Muratic acid is widely available and is watered down HCL. Chuck __________________ Art in metal and wood

01-08-2006, 09:53 PM	#41
Rod WMG User Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: The Edge of Texas Posts: 514 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I grew up around milk cows, but not machines; it was all done by hand by the people I knew. Please educate me about what "milkstone" is. I assume it is when the milk hardened with exposure to air.

01-11-2006, 09:33 PM	#45
Revolvr User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Phoenix AZ Posts: 86 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Other than Chuck's custom formulas, what commercial formulas are available for rust browning/bluing? I have seen 2 at Brownell's: Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown and Degreaser [BrownellÃ¢??s 519-100-025] and Pilkington Classic American Rust Bluing Solution [BrownellÃ¢??s 703-200-004] (which Chuck used in his comparison). There's also BC Plum Brown, but is appears to be just for browning and is used much differently. Not sure if boiling would result in a blued finish. It also requires heating the metal to 275 degrees before applying. Possibly it would work; preheating may be just to speed the process for the modern impatient gun owner. I plan to experiment with this over the next few weeks once I get the stuff I need. I'll post the results. -- Dan

04-14-2009, 07:01 PM	#48
Ice User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 552 Thanks: 13 Thanked 69 Times in 57 Posts	This is a great thread. I think it would be cheaper to buy a bottle than hunt up the ingredients and make your own. Charlie