cleaning a luger

Orvis25 · 10-21-2002, 11:32 AM

what is the best thing to clean or wipe down a luger with? after you handle it. I have a little rust going on and would like to make sure it does not continue. Is hoppes # 9 gun oil good the best chioce or nothing at all ?

Edward Tinker · 10-21-2002, 11:52 AM

This has been brought up a couple of times and a search of the forum might bring some good information. Hoppes works really well, try not to get any on the grips, as any oil is not good for them.

I like Breakfree for lubrication and oiling, although I also use Hoppes to clean.

On your left at www.lugerforum.com is this link: http://www.lugerforum.com/geninfo.html and there are two articles that talk about oil and rust prevention, along with other great info!

Big Norm · 12-13-2002, 05:30 AM

Cleaning a gun has always been a good topic. It is important to always keep oil on your gun. and not to get oil on the grips or holsters. After that, the question is just how you use the gun. Do you handle it a lot or do you want to keep it in storage for a long while? I recently talked to a classic car owner and he said that sythetic car oil sticks to metal better on his cars that he rarely drives and are kept in storage for long periods. So I would probably use that for guns that I handle a lot. Keep a rag handy that is impregnated with this for a casual whipe after handling.
On a gun that you want to store, RIG is good and store it in a cloth gun case so that air can circulate. Those "Bore Store" silicone gun cases that you find at gun shows are good. Personally, I use Vaseline petroleum jelly instead of RIG. I always thought that oil wicked off onto the cloth gun cases during periods of long storage.
To clean a gun before oiling, I would use "Flitz" and rub lightly. It comes in a toothpaste type of tube and is available at many hardware stores. It is a mild abrasive so don't rub hard or too often on a collector quality gun. Apply with a damp cloth. I use this to remove cold bluing and light freckling rust.
If you totally break down a Luger and want to clean off old oil and dirt, then use rubbing alcohol before oiling.
I will repeat though, do not get oil on wood grips or holsters. Its best to not put anything on them.
Big Norm

Lugerdoc · 12-13-2002, 08:51 AM

I spent most of the yesterday, field stripping and cleaning an old time collection that I just purchased from an estate, to insure that when I do advertise them that they are properly identified and correct. Just about all of them had some minor rust starting under the wood grips (which attract moisture), which I removed with solvent (Hoppes or paint thinner) on a stainless steel brush. Then I applies a light coating of grease before replacing the grips. With the grease on my finger, I lightly coated the rest of the metal and wiped off the excess with a soft rag (old T shirt work well). Tom H.

lugerholsterrepair · 12-13-2002, 08:37 PM

Guys, Tom is right about paint thinner. Mineral spirits I believe it is called. I use it for my cleaning too. You can use quite a bit flushing off the parts as it is very inexpensive, two or three dollars a gallon. Then I blow the parts off with a compressed air gun. Oil with break free on a shaving brush and wipe off when assembled. White lithium grease lightly on the rails. Jerry Burney

larry · 12-14-2002, 10:12 AM

Jerry
Would you have any ideas where I could find an original Navy stock, straps and holster?
larry

lugerholsterrepair · 12-14-2002, 04:15 PM

Larry, I have searched the World for these items and believe me when I tell you they are where you find them. Scarce does not begin to explain the situation. I was able to procure an original WW1 7" type 2 holster from Tom Armstrong but this is the belt type and not for a stock. I have never been offered an original type 1 holster at any price. Others have as I understand it but they were in the right place, right time etc. The stock is in the same catagory and I was able to find one in the NAPCA magazine and I bought it for over $2000.00 as I recall. I do not recall ever seeing an original strap for sale but I have seen one. David Oeash was kind enough to send me one and I patterned it so I could fashion repro's for those of us not lucky enough to own an original. So my Friend, I am sorry but I can be of no help whatsoever. Good Hunting!!! Jerry Burney

saxman · 12-24-2002, 04:35 PM

'CLENZOIL' is an excellent product for old guns. It cleans, lubricates, preserves and prevents rust. Additionally, it's very good for unvarnished wood. As with all multi-purpose CLPs, you will need a specialized bore cleaner to go with it to remove lead and copper residues. 'CLENZOIL' has been around a long time, and I like to use traditional products on old guns.

Navy · 12-24-2002, 10:03 PM

ACTUALLY, the best thing to clean a Luger with is patience, understanding, research and good advise from folks who are senior to you. Buy books, go to shows and ask questions, It is amazing how much you can learn.

Tom A

Imperial Arms · 12-25-2002, 01:58 AM

Tom, you could have not said it any better. In addition, I suggest buying a Rig-Rag and Universal Rig Grease to simply wipe down a pistol if any part of the metal has been touched.

Albert

Tom Nowling · 12-26-2002, 09:53 AM

Living here in humid south Florida all my life, I have been faced with rust on my guns for years. The last 20 years or so I have used Breakfree CLP exclusivy with great success. I keep a soft cotton rag in the gun safe and when I am through fondling, I squirt a little CLP in the rag and wipe then down. None of my guns are "rare collectors items" but they mean alot to me so I like to keep them rustfree. Try it.

10-21-2002, 11:32 AM	#1
Orvis25 User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 23 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	cleaning a luger what is the best thing to clean or wipe down a luger with? after you handle it. I have a little rust going on and would like to make sure it does not continue. Is hoppes # 9 gun oil good the best chioce or nothing at all ?

10-21-2002, 11:52 AM	#2
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,912 Thanks: 1,989 Thanked 4,502 Times in 2,077 Posts	This has been brought up a couple of times and a search of the forum might bring some good information. Hoppes works really well, try not to get any on the grips, as any oil is not good for them. I like Breakfree for lubrication and oiling, although I also use Hoppes to clean. On your left at www.lugerforum.com is this link: http://www.lugerforum.com/geninfo.html and there are two articles that talk about oil and rust prevention, along with other great info! __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

12-13-2002, 08:51 AM	#4
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	I spent most of the yesterday, field stripping and cleaning an old time collection that I just purchased from an estate, to insure that when I do advertise them that they are properly identified and correct. Just about all of them had some minor rust starting under the wood grips (which attract moisture), which I removed with solvent (Hoppes or paint thinner) on a stainless steel brush. Then I applies a light coating of grease before replacing the grips. With the grease on my finger, I lightly coated the rest of the metal and wiped off the excess with a soft rag (old T shirt work well). Tom H. __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

12-13-2002, 08:37 PM	#5
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,761 Thanks: 4,857 Thanked 3,101 Times in 1,427 Posts	Guys, Tom is right about paint thinner. Mineral spirits I believe it is called. I use it for my cleaning too. You can use quite a bit flushing off the parts as it is very inexpensive, two or three dollars a gallon. Then I blow the parts off with a compressed air gun. Oil with break free on a shaving brush and wipe off when assembled. White lithium grease lightly on the rails. Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

12-14-2002, 04:15 PM	#7
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,761 Thanks: 4,857 Thanked 3,101 Times in 1,427 Posts	Larry, I have searched the World for these items and believe me when I tell you they are where you find them. Scarce does not begin to explain the situation. I was able to procure an original WW1 7" type 2 holster from Tom Armstrong but this is the belt type and not for a stock. I have never been offered an original type 1 holster at any price. Others have as I understand it but they were in the right place, right time etc. The stock is in the same catagory and I was able to find one in the NAPCA magazine and I bought it for over $2000.00 as I recall. I do not recall ever seeing an original strap for sale but I have seen one. David Oeash was kind enough to send me one and I patterned it so I could fashion repro's for those of us not lucky enough to own an original. So my Friend, I am sorry but I can be of no help whatsoever. Good Hunting!!! Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

12-13-2002, 05:30 AM	#3
Big Norm RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 1,864 Thanks: 1 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Cleaning a gun has always been a good topic. It is important to always keep oil on your gun. and not to get oil on the grips or holsters. After that, the question is just how you use the gun. Do you handle it a lot or do you want to keep it in storage for a long while? I recently talked to a classic car owner and he said that sythetic car oil sticks to metal better on his cars that he rarely drives and are kept in storage for long periods. So I would probably use that for guns that I handle a lot. Keep a rag handy that is impregnated with this for a casual whipe after handling. On a gun that you want to store, RIG is good and store it in a cloth gun case so that air can circulate. Those "Bore Store" silicone gun cases that you find at gun shows are good. Personally, I use Vaseline petroleum jelly instead of RIG. I always thought that oil wicked off onto the cloth gun cases during periods of long storage. To clean a gun before oiling, I would use "Flitz" and rub lightly. It comes in a toothpaste type of tube and is available at many hardware stores. It is a mild abrasive so don't rub hard or too often on a collector quality gun. Apply with a damp cloth. I use this to remove cold bluing and light freckling rust. If you totally break down a Luger and want to clean off old oil and dirt, then use rubbing alcohol before oiling. I will repeat though, do not get oil on wood grips or holsters. Its best to not put anything on them. Big Norm

12-14-2002, 10:12 AM	#6
larry User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Michigan Posts: 106 Thanks: 26 Thanked 15 Times in 8 Posts	Jerry Would you have any ideas where I could find an original Navy stock, straps and holster? larry

12-24-2002, 04:35 PM	#8
saxman User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 301 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	'CLENZOIL' is an excellent product for old guns. It cleans, lubricates, preserves and prevents rust. Additionally, it's very good for unvarnished wood. As with all multi-purpose CLPs, you will need a specialized bore cleaner to go with it to remove lead and copper residues. 'CLENZOIL' has been around a long time, and I like to use traditional products on old guns. __________________ You can lead 'em to the water, but you can't make 'em drink.

12-24-2002, 10:03 PM	#9
Navy RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Dc 'burbs in Virginia Posts: 2,482 Thanks: 0 Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts	ACTUALLY, the best thing to clean a Luger with is patience, understanding, research and good advise from folks who are senior to you. Buy books, go to shows and ask questions, It is amazing how much you can learn. Tom A

12-25-2002, 01:58 AM	#10
Imperial Arms Banned Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Malta, EU Posts: 579 Thanks: 0 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts	Tom, you could have not said it any better. In addition, I suggest buying a Rig-Rag and Universal Rig Grease to simply wipe down a pistol if any part of the metal has been touched. Albert

12-26-2002, 09:53 AM	#11
Tom Nowling User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: South Fla. Posts: 24 Thanks: 1 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Living here in humid south Florida all my life, I have been faced with rust on my guns for years. The last 20 years or so I have used Breakfree CLP exclusivy with great success. I keep a soft cotton rag in the gun safe and when I am through fondling, I squirt a little CLP in the rag and wipe then down. None of my guns are "rare collectors items" but they mean alot to me so I like to keep them rustfree. Try it.