Newbie With First Luger:

[gvf]

I got to the range really late, so just had enough time to test the gun with a few rounds, 6 I think.

Short test but everything seemed OK and I like shooting it. The minute sights made the shots very accurate as I imagine point-shooting would be. I used 115gr ammo and the recoil was hardly noticeable.

I look forward to shooting more!

Best to all,
Jerry ("gvf")

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by gvf

Hey thanks a lot, sounds a lot easier than the muzzle on table.

(How do you de-**** these by the way?)

I'll try your suggestion next time

Thanks so much,
Jerry
("gvf")

When the action is closed, the striker is always set, unless it has been "de-roostered". Raise the toggle knobs and pull back until you feel resistance, the bolt should be withdrawn about 3/8" at that point. Pull just slightly into this resistance and press and hold the trigger while then allowing the block to go back home. If you've done it right, you won't hear a click when the trigger is pulled thereafter.

[gvf]

I ran across an interesting article with the "S" "T" and "U" suffixed serial numbers in it as well as others. You may have read it.

In the bottom two photos, the right one has the same mark I believe mine has - twice but minus the numbers shown in the article under the eagle mark. One is on the rear area of the barrel and one very faint on the body of the gun just behind the barrel. They are on the right side of the gun.

"Eagle over WaA66 Waffenamt proof"

It's a good summary article, and goes through the different reasons usually given for the lack of the manufacture's name on the guns. I believe they all came up on this Tread.

Best
Jerry
"gvf"

[gvf]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

Another method I use is to insert an empty mag once the upper is slid on and the hook properly engaged. Pull back on the toggle knobs and it will lock back with the hold-open, allowing installation of the side plate and subsequent rotation of the locking bolt. This eliminates the juggling act required to do these operations with one hand while maintaining all that pressure with the other--a setup which is inherently unstable and may slip if you're not careful. Afterwards, remove the mag, cycle the action, de-c0ck, and you're good.

You know I tried that, but after inserting the mag and pulling all the way back until I get lock-back, that still doesn't allow me to put the side-plate back on or move the Take-Down Bolt up. And the barrel/top of the gun won't budge. Any ideas? Your way sounds much easier than the other that I'd like to get it, but I must be doing something wrong.

Thanks

[DonVoigt]

gvf,
the right side chamber proofs on P 08s in the s,t,u range are notoriously pooly struck.
It is not surprising that you can't see or read the "66" parts.
This 1929 DWM is number 3934 u.

[SteveM]

Example of clearer stamps

[gvf]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

gvf,
the right side chamber proofs on P 08s in the s,t,u range are notoriously pooly struck.
It is not surprising that you can't see or read the "66" parts.
This 1929 DWM is number 3934 u.

What do you mean "66 parts"?

And the 3934 u is different than my serial number. That usual?

Thanks
Jerry

[gvf]

Newbie Luger: After test firing my Luger last night, which went well, tonight I had a lot of jams and a very odd thing with the magazine. I could not get the mag out when the jams happened, so I locked the slide back, turned the gun so the unfired round dropped out, then either took the mag out which then was easy and shot again, or sometimes I left the mag in the gun after being sure the round was out, released the slide etc and fired again. The rounds that jammed were half in/half out of the barrel, pointed up I think. Once two rounds fell out, so some kinds of double-feed.

After the last jam and clearing it (the mag was in the gun), I released the slide after the slight pull back, and shot the last two rounds.

But when I took the mag out it was rough, like sand was in the runners where the mag moves up. Same when I inserted it. It took a slight effort and felt very rough inside the hilt. It was never like this before or after the first cleaning and lube.

I looked at the mag and there are scrapes on the narrow back, running about and inch down from the top. There also looks like in the same place there is a slightly raised area in mid-back of the mag, running the same inch. There are also three little circles, 16th of an inch or so, also in the raised area, and I think they indent inwards.

That raised area could scrape against the hilt's runners.

A guy who works at the range examined the lips and thought there was a slight difference between the two. He also noticed the Follower was over to one side of the
mag on top. I noticed that but the lips: hard for me to tell. He suggested perhaps the follower banged around in there and pushed the back of the mag out a bit at that one spot.

I'm going to use an after-market mag and show the mag that came with the gun to that Smith who knows Lugers, the one I mentioned.

I never had a mag, after a jam and then a shot, suddenly become so much harder to take out or insert and have metal scraping metal.

Pretty weird. Have any thoughts about what's going on: the jams and the magazine scraping suddenly?

Also what's the best after-market mag for a very manageable amount of money?

Last, I noticed the rounds in the mag really point up at a greater angle than I usually see. That the way they are supposed to be?

Thanks if you have any idea what 's going on.

[rhuff]

Get yourself a couple(or more) Mec-Gar P08 mags. They are the best aftermarket luger mags available. Go to Greg Cote LLC site. Last time I looked, he had them for sale. His prices are as good, or better, then most. A good mag may well solve all of your problems. One has to remember that some of these original mags(including springs) are 100 years old, and have been used!!

[gvf]

Originally Posted by rhuff

Get yourself a couple(or more) Mec-Gar P08 mags. They are the best aftermarket luger mags available. Go to Greg Cote LLC site. Last time I looked, he had them for sale. His prices are as good, or better, then most. A good mag may well solve all of your problems. One has to remember that some of these original mags(including springs) are 100 years old, and have been used!!

Thanks, Mec-Gar was mentioned by others.

But that obviously will not be original to the gun if I sell it sometime while the present mag could be, unknown since there are no numbers on it, but I read somewhere with these guns, ones that eventually became police, and some of those Blank-Toggles, that was not uncommon, I think even with mags that matched the guns.

So, even if shoot with a good Mec-Gar I'd still like the present one available that works. Go to a gunsmith for that like I'm doing?

Thanks a lot for the quick diagnosis and cure (hopefully).

Jerry

[DonVoigt]

If you are worried about the cost of a magazine, taking your magazine and luger to a 'smith will cost a lot more.

Better to clean every thing up , again- and then try. It didn't just all of a sudden become bent and
rough. And certainly the follower didn't damage the magazine body.

Yes the cartridges do seem at a sharper angle in the luger magazine, they have to be to match the angle of the grip to the barrel.

FRom your post # 83:
"Eagle over WaA66 Waffenamt proof" .

These are are the "66"s I refer to. You can't see the 66 part of the WAa66 very well in these
markings as shown in my pictures.

I really don't understand your comment about my "u" suffix pistol, you wrote about reading about s,t, and u suffix pistols. Of course my serial is different from yours, each pistol serial is unique to each individual pistol of that year and model!

[ithacaartist]

I recommend sending your mag to G.T., here on the forum. He's the resident mag wizard. It is a good idea to have the original rehabilitated, then set aside after testing, and use the MecGar mags for shooting.

[gvf]

Originally Posted by ithacaartist

I recommend sending your mag to G.T., here on the forum. He's the resident mag wizard. It is a good idea to have the original rehabilitated, then set aside after testing, and use the MecGar mags for shooting.

That his user-name "G.T."? I can get the email, Message address from list of members. Much Thanks.

Jerry

[DavidJayUden]

Yes it is. G. T. He's one of our very own whiz kids, and he makes some really high quality stuff that keeps us going. Look in the for sale column as I've seen some posts by him lately.
dju

[gvf]

He just sent me a PM, sounds a real nice guy and charges $30 bucks for a mag-fixing. Now that's less than a box of some ammo I buy.

To ALL: So glad you mentioned him! .

Best & Thanks
Jerry

[John Sabato]

Originally Posted by gvf

That his user-name "G.T."? I can get the email, Message address from list of members. Much Thanks.

Jerry

Actually, the full contents of the member database is not available to anyone except the moderators. We take member privacy very seriously. Our database is not sold, traded, or otherwise shared with anyone.

If you click on GT's screen name on one of his posts, you may send him a private message or email if the subscriber allows such contact. The only personal information available to members from the profile of another member is the first name, and possibly a location...

[Don M]

A related thread may be found at http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthre...682#post275682.

[gvf]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

If you are worried about the cost of a magazine, taking your magazine and luger to a 'smith will cost a lot more.

Better to clean every thing up , again- and then try. It didn't just all of a sudden become bent and
rough. And certainly the follower didn't damage the magazine body.

Yes the cartridges do seem at a sharper angle in the luger magazine, they have to be to match the angle of the grip to the barrel.

FRom your post # 83:
"Eagle over WaA66 Waffenamt proof" .

These are are the "66"s I refer to. You can't see the 66 part of the WAa66 very well in these
markings as shown in my pictures.

I really don't understand your comment about my "u" suffix pistol, you wrote about reading about s,t, and u suffix pistols. Of course my serial is different from yours, each pistol serial is unique to each individual pistol of that year and model!

I didn't know if by chance you were referring to my pistol, which has a different serial N.

Best
"gvf"