How Badly did I get taken? PIX Added

ajdrr · 09-18-2005, 07:20 PM

I wanted a luger for some time now and went to the Lakeland FL show today and bought a 1916 dwm "miixmaster" for 650. It was at 750, and I figured to get ripped off for 650 is better than 750 or the 1250 one I was considering.

I know, dumb move without any knowledge of lugers, but I wanted to get started.....
So, how do I tell how bad the pistol is.
I have quite a bit of familiarity with WWII USGI weapons, and a bit with the P38 cyq....

Any suggestions on how to start to evaluate the gun?

It is stamped 1916 on top, with the DWM logo, and 9911 S/N most parts have an 11 on them, the mag is wooden with 9911 scribed in by hand....the top toggle is maked 71 ...

Any help appreciated,

Andy

policeluger · 09-18-2005, 07:52 PM

There is no need for a home pregnancy test, to tell the truth I bet we all started about there, and like a bad hair cut needs a few days to grow out, in a few years you'll wish you had bought more a $650....but pictures will help us help you, how is the bore? and now remember to buy books next time instead of guns, its hard to find a good shooter for much less.

ajdrr · 09-19-2005, 01:35 AM

Thanks for the reply, and lack of flame. Books are a better buy, but money doesn't burn a hole in your pocket for books.....

In the last 4 hours I have read a bit of this forum and viewed Johhn Dunkle's 1916 Imperial DWM photos in the gallery, very very nice piece.

Question on operation:
When I pull up the toggle and **** the "bolt hammer" it will stay in this position without returning to the closed-locked position on it's own. I can easily push it down, and when I fully retract and release it locks home fine.

Also, is it safe to fire without the hold open installed?

I spent some time searching for the hammer, it took a while to figure out the Luger is quite different from most pistols I have taken apart. :-)

The finish is very good, probably all reblued. I think the proofs should be after blue originally?

9911 on side of receiver and 9911 with a cursive lower case g under it.

Differences I have to John's pistol:

Black Plastic grips
No Hold Open - groove machined for it but it's not there, should have it I think
Reblued barrel inside and out
Rebarreled - no alignment mark on barrel, only receiver
Wooden mag with 9911 scribed on edge - some stamp mark on wood
Ejector says NbnEHb - Russian characters?
Bolt is 93
top toggle assembly is 70 not 71
4 correct proofs on receiver as shown on this forum for DWM
All other parts 11

I will take some pictures and post

Seems like a mixed -redone 1916 Luger, Bore is good but blued, action seems fine.

policeluger · 09-19-2005, 02:12 AM

You can operate the guns safely without a hold open device, all things being safe and in good running condition, about $50 should get you one, BUT what?? you got a Russian extractor (I think thats what you meant), you may have a diamond here, we will need pictures, this could be a gem of a part...

John Sabato · 09-19-2005, 08:50 AM

Police Luger is right. The exctractor, if in fact, a genuine Russian extractor, may be worth almost as much as you paid fo the gun.

I agree with PL, the gun should be safe to shoot. I have had several Lugers that would "pause" if brought to the "cocked" position... sometimes if lubricated properly, they will stop doing this, but you will never see this happen during firing... only when slowly manually cocking it.

The gun is definitely a mix-master parts gun. If you post photos of the individual parts that show any stamps on them some members may be able to identify their individual pedigree.

The black plastic grips, may in fact be bakelite, (or they could be just black plastic reproductions), but if genuine bakelite and in good condition, they could be worth as much as 20% of what you paid...

We shall wait for the photos. The photo tutorial is at the top of the Site Help and Feedback forum.

Welcome to the Lugerforum.

policeluger · 09-19-2005, 09:45 AM

I am awake now, and I understand you question better, you can pull the toggle (bolt hammer is incorrect term) part way up and it will hold, and with a final snap it will lock into battery, this is OK...

Ron Wood · 09-19-2005, 10:45 AM

The extractor is Bulgarian, not Russian. Still scarce, but not as rare as a Russian extractor.

Hugh · 09-19-2005, 06:01 PM

Andy,

I am looking for a Bulgarian extractor. I will trade you a "geladen" extractor & a holdopen with spring for your Bulgarian extractor, or buy it for $100.
Hugh

ajdrr · 09-19-2005, 08:57 PM

Many thanks for the replies and info.

I took it to work, where my good dig camera was, and didn't get tiime to take photos or even read this thread til now. I left the luger at work, so no pics til tomorrow, sorry.
I will take pictures of the parts, particularly the extractor writing.

Hugh, I appreciate the offer, ..I will let you know when I learn more about the luger, especially the part that explains how to remove the extractor.

I am still amazed studying the operation and design. This is the first Luger I have held for more than 5 seconds. I first thought I got ripped off when I figured out how to remove the barrel assembly, and couldn't find the hammer !!! "This thing is nothing like the .45" I thought.

PL: By bolt hammer I meant the little spring loaded part that hits the firing pin. It seems the hammer is built in to the bolt. The trigger just releases this little hammer in the bolt. Seeing as I still don't know jack about the Luger, odds are I am probably wrong.

The toggle I think is the thing with the two "lifesavers" on either side that hinges when you pull up to operate the action? When I pullup the toggle, it stays up after the little "click".
Here are the pics, I have more if needed, sorry for the large size of some.

policeluger · 09-19-2005, 11:58 PM

1. No part "hits" the firing pin, held under tension by the sear bar when cocked, the firing pin will travel forward and hit the primer when released. It is the trigger that by means of a lever, that slides the sear bar off the firing pin allowing it to move forward
2. The toggle unit has a right and left side knob, not lifesaver, that give you a gripping area to **** the gun, staying up a little if opened slowly is the norm.....but having not seen or handled your gun, perhaps you should seek out someone in your area more familiar with the gun and help you through it

ajdrr · 09-20-2005, 04:11 PM

Pictures added above

policeluger · 09-20-2005, 04:56 PM

Looks like a very nice clip and with pictures of other siide and bottom would help here, but looks to be in the $125 range due to such nice condition, grips need a better look at...what color are they, looks a bit red to me and may just turn out to be better then expected, extractor is right on and needs to go on ebay for best price, simply put a little down ward pressure on the extractor top, on side take a small pin punch and drift out, may need to turn on side on a soft wood working block and drift out that way....you have got a diamond here, and what proof marks are on the inside of the grips, thanks for pic.

ajdrr · 09-20-2005, 10:58 PM

Thanks for the look at the pictures, I really appreciate an informed opinion.

The Mag:

The pictured side above indicates the condition of the other sides and edges. I will take more pics. The entire clip has no signs of pitting, rust or gouges. The follower is machined and is plated (Nickel?) The spring is clean and shiny, the checkered thumb slide button has some small signs of rust. The inside looks clean and shiny - not polished clean, but well kept over years. 9911 is lightly etched by hand with possibly one of those vibrating scribe tools. The wooden plug is in very good shape, and has a stamp mark on the bottom surface towards the end with the pin. It looks very similar to the first (most rearward) stamp on the side of the receiver. The crown has two "tufts" and the tilde ~ under it are almost the same, but the symbol under the tilde looks more like a C with a trapezoid on the bottom. I know it's hard to explain, but I can only see it well with a 10X loupe, I will try to photograph it but I doubt it will come clear...The stamp is the same size as the ones on the receiver.

The Grips:

They are black - almost a glossy black. The outer outer rim/edge around the checkering is smooth and glossy, but seems crudely hand-molded.
They are not a fine plastic mold as one would see made today. There is also a threaded counterbore in each grip, about 3/16" deep and 3/8" diameter on the inside (see picture) . Like something is supposed to thread into these holes?
I can't find anything that looks like a stamp or proof mark. They seem very sturdy, with many sanded areas around the edges and flat inside.

There is a small chip (1/8") on the inside of the right hand grip that leads me to think Bakelight. It looks is a "true" chip, like a chip made on a rock, it is jagged and rough, not what I would expect from plastic.

The Extractor:

The extractor is Russian?
This may be good news. Is there any web info on these?

Thanks again for the insight, this is very interesting and fun. This may turn out to be a heck of a parts gun. I set out to find a WWII Nazi marked decent condition P -08 Luger, and settled for this due to price and knowing I didn't know enough to make a "real", informed, Luger purchase.

I wonder if the sum of these possibly valuable parts and the rest of the gun could be worth a good condition original WWII Luger?, or do I hope for way too much.
I will take detailed pics of the mag, grips and extractor tomorrow.

Thanks,

Andy

policeluger · 09-20-2005, 11:58 PM

You really need a WW2 era collector to make a call on the grips, I can only caution you that they may be worth a lot more then I can appraise them at, not an area I deal in, and the extractor is way out of anything I have ever worked with, take your time with it, you got a real dandy there, and if you eBay it, open up your sales to Europen countrys, do not limit it to US sales only......I wish you the best and let me know if I can help!

Ron Wood · 09-21-2005, 12:55 AM

Andy,
I do not understand why you are asking again; "The extractor is Russian?" The extractor is not Russian, it is Bulgarian. A Russian extractor is quite rare and worth a fair amount of money. Your Bulgarian extractor is also not common and may be worth nearly 1/3 of what you paid for the whole gun, but it isn't Russian.
You have done well on your first Luger purchase. Enjoy it for what it is.

Big Norm · 09-21-2005, 02:20 AM

Ron,
you have me confused by calling this a Bulgarian extractor and not a Russian extractor. While Russian characters are different from Bugarian characters, I always thought that the Germans didn't realise it either that the characters were different, so they used the same characters on the Russian extractors as they used on the Bulgarian extractors.

Wait a minute...I just looked at two extactors that I thought were Russian/Bugarian and the characters are different from Andys picture of his extractor. My extractors look something like a reverse '3', 'AP', reverse 'R', an 'unknown' symbol and a weird looking small 'b' character (just like Andys small, weird 'b'). But still, both my extractors are different from Andy's. So which is the Russian and which is the Bugarian?

I started collecting extrators once and thought that there were a few different ones
(1) the turkish extractor,
(2) the Portugese "CARREGADA",
(3) my Russian/Bugarian
(4) the "RUST" extractor, and
(5) the American "LOADED" and
(6) now Andies
Are there any others?
Big Norm

olivier5848 · 09-21-2005, 05:24 AM

Hello to all
This extractor is for me an Bulgarian extractor. I send you a picture from a french book. On the book you can see a bulgarian extractor, note that the caracters are the same as the extractor on the forum.
Best regards
Olivier

olivier5848 · 09-21-2005, 05:28 AM

To answer to M. Big Norm I have found in a luger book a french extractor, the autor of this book say that the french luger is rare.
Have all a nice day.
Olivier

Hugh · 09-21-2005, 06:04 AM

A Bulgarian extractor just sold on ebay the first week of Sept for $102.50, I was outbid by $2.50!

I don't think that these are original black widow grips, but another forum member has done a detailed study of them and may be able to offer a more informed opinion.

saxman · 09-21-2005, 10:06 AM

So; To the bottom line - did you pay too much or not? All things considered, and with the status of the grips still undecided, I think you may have stumbled into a break-even deal. With a DWM extractor and some period wood grips, you could probably get $550 for it, and you can make $100 on the extractor. If the grips turn out to be 'black widow', then you can put another $100 in your pocket which would make it definitely a 'plus' deal.

09-18-2005, 07:20 PM	#1
ajdrr User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	How Badly did I get taken? PIX Added I wanted a luger for some time now and went to the Lakeland FL show today and bought a 1916 dwm "miixmaster" for 650. It was at 750, and I figured to get ripped off for 650 is better than 750 or the 1250 one I was considering. I know, dumb move without any knowledge of lugers, but I wanted to get started..... So, how do I tell how bad the pistol is. I have quite a bit of familiarity with WWII USGI weapons, and a bit with the P38 cyq.... Any suggestions on how to start to evaluate the gun? It is stamped 1916 on top, with the DWM logo, and 9911 S/N most parts have an 11 on them, the mag is wooden with 9911 scribed in by hand....the top toggle is maked 71 ... Any help appreciated, Andy

09-19-2005, 08:50 AM	#5
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	Police Luger is right. The exctractor, if in fact, a genuine Russian extractor, may be worth almost as much as you paid fo the gun. I agree with PL, the gun should be safe to shoot. I have had several Lugers that would "pause" if brought to the "cocked" position... sometimes if lubricated properly, they will stop doing this, but you will never see this happen during firing... only when slowly manually cocking it. The gun is definitely a mix-master parts gun. If you post photos of the individual parts that show any stamps on them some members may be able to identify their individual pedigree. The black plastic grips, may in fact be bakelite, (or they could be just black plastic reproductions), but if genuine bakelite and in good condition, they could be worth as much as 20% of what you paid... We shall wait for the photos. The photo tutorial is at the top of the Site Help and Feedback forum. Welcome to the Lugerforum. __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

09-19-2005, 10:45 AM	#7
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 6,986 Thanks: 1,065 Thanked 5,088 Times in 1,674 Posts	The extractor is Bulgarian, not Russian. Still scarce, but not as rare as a Russian extractor. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

09-19-2005, 06:01 PM	#8
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 165 Times in 64 Posts	Andy, I am looking for a Bulgarian extractor. I will trade you a "geladen" extractor & a holdopen with spring for your Bulgarian extractor, or buy it for $100. Hugh __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

09-21-2005, 12:55 AM	#15
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 6,986 Thanks: 1,065 Thanked 5,088 Times in 1,674 Posts	Andy, I do not understand why you are asking again; "The extractor is Russian?" The extractor is not Russian, it is Bulgarian. A Russian extractor is quite rare and worth a fair amount of money. Your Bulgarian extractor is also not common and may be worth nearly 1/3 of what you paid for the whole gun, but it isn't Russian. You have done well on your first Luger purchase. Enjoy it for what it is. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

09-18-2005, 07:52 PM	#2
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	There is no need for a home pregnancy test, to tell the truth I bet we all started about there, and like a bad hair cut needs a few days to grow out, in a few years you'll wish you had bought more a $650....but pictures will help us help you, how is the bore? and now remember to buy books next time instead of guns, its hard to find a good shooter for much less.

09-19-2005, 01:35 AM	#3
ajdrr User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the reply, and lack of flame. Books are a better buy, but money doesn't burn a hole in your pocket for books..... In the last 4 hours I have read a bit of this forum and viewed Johhn Dunkle's 1916 Imperial DWM photos in the gallery, very very nice piece. Question on operation: When I pull up the toggle and **** the "bolt hammer" it will stay in this position without returning to the closed-locked position on it's own. I can easily push it down, and when I fully retract and release it locks home fine. Also, is it safe to fire without the hold open installed? I spent some time searching for the hammer, it took a while to figure out the Luger is quite different from most pistols I have taken apart. :-) The finish is very good, probably all reblued. I think the proofs should be after blue originally? 9911 on side of receiver and 9911 with a cursive lower case g under it. Differences I have to John's pistol: Black Plastic grips No Hold Open - groove machined for it but it's not there, should have it I think Reblued barrel inside and out Rebarreled - no alignment mark on barrel, only receiver Wooden mag with 9911 scribed on edge - some stamp mark on wood Ejector says NbnEHb - Russian characters? Bolt is 93 top toggle assembly is 70 not 71 4 correct proofs on receiver as shown on this forum for DWM All other parts 11 I will take some pictures and post Seems like a mixed -redone 1916 Luger, Bore is good but blued, action seems fine.

09-19-2005, 02:12 AM	#4
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	You can operate the guns safely without a hold open device, all things being safe and in good running condition, about $50 should get you one, BUT what?? you got a Russian extractor (I think thats what you meant), you may have a diamond here, we will need pictures, this could be a gem of a part...

09-19-2005, 09:45 AM	#6
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	I am awake now, and I understand you question better, you can pull the toggle (bolt hammer is incorrect term) part way up and it will hold, and with a final snap it will lock into battery, this is OK...

09-19-2005, 08:57 PM	#9
ajdrr User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Many thanks for the replies and info. I took it to work, where my good dig camera was, and didn't get tiime to take photos or even read this thread til now. I left the luger at work, so no pics til tomorrow, sorry. I will take pictures of the parts, particularly the extractor writing. Hugh, I appreciate the offer, ..I will let you know when I learn more about the luger, especially the part that explains how to remove the extractor. I am still amazed studying the operation and design. This is the first Luger I have held for more than 5 seconds. I first thought I got ripped off when I figured out how to remove the barrel assembly, and couldn't find the hammer !!! "This thing is nothing like the .45" I thought. PL: By bolt hammer I meant the little spring loaded part that hits the firing pin. It seems the hammer is built in to the bolt. The trigger just releases this little hammer in the bolt. Seeing as I still don't know jack about the Luger, odds are I am probably wrong. The toggle I think is the thing with the two "lifesavers" on either side that hinges when you pull up to operate the action? When I pullup the toggle, it stays up after the little "click". Here are the pics, I have more if needed, sorry for the large size of some.

09-19-2005, 11:58 PM	#10
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	1. No part "hits" the firing pin, held under tension by the sear bar when cocked, the firing pin will travel forward and hit the primer when released. It is the trigger that by means of a lever, that slides the sear bar off the firing pin allowing it to move forward 2. The toggle unit has a right and left side knob, not lifesaver, that give you a gripping area to **** the gun, staying up a little if opened slowly is the norm.....but having not seen or handled your gun, perhaps you should seek out someone in your area more familiar with the gun and help you through it

09-20-2005, 04:11 PM	#11
ajdrr User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Pictures added above

09-20-2005, 04:56 PM	#12
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	Looks like a very nice clip and with pictures of other siide and bottom would help here, but looks to be in the $125 range due to such nice condition, grips need a better look at...what color are they, looks a bit red to me and may just turn out to be better then expected, extractor is right on and needs to go on ebay for best price, simply put a little down ward pressure on the extractor top, on side take a small pin punch and drift out, may need to turn on side on a soft wood working block and drift out that way....you have got a diamond here, and what proof marks are on the inside of the grips, thanks for pic.

09-20-2005, 10:58 PM	#13
ajdrr User Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the look at the pictures, I really appreciate an informed opinion. The Mag: The pictured side above indicates the condition of the other sides and edges. I will take more pics. The entire clip has no signs of pitting, rust or gouges. The follower is machined and is plated (Nickel?) The spring is clean and shiny, the checkered thumb slide button has some small signs of rust. The inside looks clean and shiny - not polished clean, but well kept over years. 9911 is lightly etched by hand with possibly one of those vibrating scribe tools. The wooden plug is in very good shape, and has a stamp mark on the bottom surface towards the end with the pin. It looks very similar to the first (most rearward) stamp on the side of the receiver. The crown has two "tufts" and the tilde ~ under it are almost the same, but the symbol under the tilde looks more like a C with a trapezoid on the bottom. I know it's hard to explain, but I can only see it well with a 10X loupe, I will try to photograph it but I doubt it will come clear...The stamp is the same size as the ones on the receiver. The Grips: They are black - almost a glossy black. The outer outer rim/edge around the checkering is smooth and glossy, but seems crudely hand-molded. They are not a fine plastic mold as one would see made today. There is also a threaded counterbore in each grip, about 3/16" deep and 3/8" diameter on the inside (see picture) . Like something is supposed to thread into these holes? I can't find anything that looks like a stamp or proof mark. They seem very sturdy, with many sanded areas around the edges and flat inside. There is a small chip (1/8") on the inside of the right hand grip that leads me to think Bakelight. It looks is a "true" chip, like a chip made on a rock, it is jagged and rough, not what I would expect from plastic. The Extractor: The extractor is Russian? This may be good news. Is there any web info on these? Thanks again for the insight, this is very interesting and fun. This may turn out to be a heck of a parts gun. I set out to find a WWII Nazi marked decent condition P -08 Luger, and settled for this due to price and knowing I didn't know enough to make a "real", informed, Luger purchase. I wonder if the sum of these possibly valuable parts and the rest of the gun could be worth a good condition original WWII Luger?, or do I hope for way too much. I will take detailed pics of the mag, grips and extractor tomorrow. Thanks, Andy

09-20-2005, 11:58 PM	#14
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	You really need a WW2 era collector to make a call on the grips, I can only caution you that they may be worth a lot more then I can appraise them at, not an area I deal in, and the extractor is way out of anything I have ever worked with, take your time with it, you got a real dandy there, and if you eBay it, open up your sales to Europen countrys, do not limit it to US sales only......I wish you the best and let me know if I can help!

09-21-2005, 02:20 AM	#16
Big Norm RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SE Michigan Posts: 1,864 Thanks: 1 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Ron, you have me confused by calling this a Bulgarian extractor and not a Russian extractor. While Russian characters are different from Bugarian characters, I always thought that the Germans didn't realise it either that the characters were different, so they used the same characters on the Russian extractors as they used on the Bulgarian extractors. Wait a minute...I just looked at two extactors that I thought were Russian/Bugarian and the characters are different from Andys picture of his extractor. My extractors look something like a reverse '3', 'AP', reverse 'R', an 'unknown' symbol and a weird looking small 'b' character (just like Andys small, weird 'b'). But still, both my extractors are different from Andy's. So which is the Russian and which is the Bugarian? I started collecting extrators once and thought that there were a few different ones (1) the turkish extractor, (2) the Portugese "CARREGADA", (3) my Russian/Bugarian (4) the "RUST" extractor, and (5) the American "LOADED" and (6) now Andies Are there any others? Big Norm

09-21-2005, 05:24 AM	#17
olivier5848 User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: France Posts: 61 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hello to all This extractor is for me an Bulgarian extractor. I send you a picture from a french book. On the book you can see a bulgarian extractor, note that the caracters are the same as the extractor on the forum. Best regards Olivier Attached Thumbnails

09-21-2005, 05:28 AM	#18
olivier5848 User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: France Posts: 61 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	french extractor To answer to M. Big Norm I have found in a luger book a french extractor, the autor of this book say that the french luger is rare. Have all a nice day. Olivier Attached Thumbnails

09-21-2005, 06:04 AM	#19
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 165 Times in 64 Posts	A Bulgarian extractor just sold on ebay the first week of Sept for $102.50, I was outbid by $2.50! I don't think that these are original black widow grips, but another forum member has done a detailed study of them and may be able to offer a more informed opinion. __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

09-21-2005, 10:06 AM	#20
saxman User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 301 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	So; To the bottom line - did you pay too much or not? All things considered, and with the status of the grips still undecided, I think you may have stumbled into a break-even deal. With a DWM extractor and some period wood grips, you could probably get $550 for it, and you can make $100 on the extractor. If the grips turn out to be 'black widow', then you can put another $100 in your pocket which would make it definitely a 'plus' deal. __________________ You can lead 'em to the water, but you can't make 'em drink.