Takedown lever moving

riffraff · 11-01-2003, 05:36 PM

Hello again all! I will bet that this is on old worn out question but here goes again. I have a Stoeger stainless purchased new in box. I have thus far only fired it on two occasions. Even after one full magazine the takedown lever will rotate clockwise approx. 45 deg. It will not go any further than that even if fired while left in the 45 position. Besides being an annoyance, is this something that is common and/or that needs to be remedied by Orimar? Thank You, Mike

Herb · 11-01-2003, 06:00 PM

riffraff, having never owned a Stoger I can't give you positive advice but on a regular Luger there is a wire spring located on the bottom of the holdopen opening, inside, and a corresponding slot in the holdopen shaft that locks onto this spring when it is the closed position. I would check that first.

Steve Richards · 11-01-2003, 08:39 PM

I have two of the latter production guns and have the opposite problem. My takedown levers are VERY difficult to turn. Your problem certainly sounds like it needs to be corrected. If Herb's advise does not work, I would contact Orimar for a remedy.

On mine, the spring is not visible as it is on a vintage gun. I have not taken the takedown levers out so I can only say that on a vintage gun they simply slide out (with force applied). I can only guess the same applies on the stainless.

Steve

Herb · 11-01-2003, 09:01 PM

Steve, are you pushing the barrel to the rear and holding it there while turning the holdopen? On a vintage Luger this is a must or it just doesn't work.

riffraff · 11-01-2003, 09:55 PM

Aha!, yes I am learning. The locking Bolt spring that Herb refered to is listed as N/A in my exploded view/parts list that came with my pistol. Instead what Orimar has done is place a spring loaded ball bearing in the center of the locking bolt that is located forward when the locking bolt is "pointed" down and down when the locking bolt is in the normal position. Any further info. on this problem with my/your pistol is still of great interest. Respondees and yet to respond please post. Thank You! Mike

riffraff · 11-01-2003, 10:36 PM

Steve, do the locking bolts of your pistols have a definate "detent" feel/sound when the lever is moved to/from the take down to normal mode when the barrel extension assembly is not present? My pistol has a definate detent feel/sound when moved to the normal position but NOT to the take down position when the barrel extension is absent. I believe that the careful and judicious application of the right size of ball shaped die grinder tool bit with my Dremel tool to create a "pocket" for the ball to ride into when the locking bolt is moved to the normal position will solve my problem. What do you guys think? Mike

Steve Richards · 11-03-2003, 01:59 AM

I just checked my .30cal and there is a definate click when I rotate the locking lever to the down position and again when I return it to the shooting position.

Herb, I do push the top assembly back and hold it but it was a good question to ask. One never knows what somebody else knows and sometimes a game of 20 questions is all that will help solve a problem.

John Sabato · 11-03-2003, 09:35 AM

riffraff,

creating a 'pocket' for the spring loaded ball is the answer to your problem... unless the spring behind the ball is damaged or otherwise too weak to hold the lever in place...

grinding anything on your gun will void the warranty... DON'T do this if your warranty is a concern... send it to Orimar for repair instead...but if you have confidence in your ablility to create this pocket, and your gun is out of warranty...you should be able to solve your problem in about 60 seconds with your Dremel and the right shaped tool...

riffraff · 11-03-2003, 05:53 PM

Thank You John and Steve and Herb. John, the warrenty is not a concern for me. The staked in spring loaded ball seems to me to be quite strong (spring that is), I do think that the formation of a pocket for the ball to rest in while in the normal position will fit the bill. Thanks for your help guys! Mike

Thor · 11-03-2003, 06:06 PM

There are several differences in these post war American made Lugers over the German counterparts. The sear bar is BLIND pinned into the reciever (you would have to drill out the pin if you needed to take out the bar) The trigger lever is retained in the sideplate by a flush cut roll pin. The trigger lever is NOT BEVELed on the front edge like the originals so a reset of the trigger by allowing the trigger bar plunger to extend is "iffy". Some of these design changes seem to work. Some dont. Any chance someone can post an exploded part diagram for the AIMCO vintage Lugers?

Herb · 11-03-2003, 06:12 PM

riffraff, be sure you make a 'ramp' for that ball to ride in, if it just pops into a hole you might never get it to pop out of there again.
Steve, yes, on a vintage luger you have to push the barrel to the rear, hold it there then rotate the takedown lever downward. I'm right handed so I hold the luger in my right hand, push the barrel assembly to the rear with the palm of my left hand, hold it there and rotate the takedown lever downward with my thumb. Before I get chastized, make sure it is unloaded, also the safety has to be off or the barrel won't go far enough to the rear.

John Sabato · 11-04-2003, 06:48 AM

Do not make the "pocket" large enough to accept the entire springloaded ball. just make a recessed place for it to rest slightly below the curved surface, perhaps about 25% of the ball's diameter and test...

you can always take a little more off... but putting it back is a trick most of us are incapable of accomplishing gracefully...

Good Luck.

riffraff · 11-04-2003, 06:41 PM

Thanks John. I definately understand. Mike

11-01-2003, 05:36 PM	#1
riffraff User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: central Arkansas Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Takedown lever moving Hello again all! I will bet that this is on old worn out question but here goes again. I have a Stoeger stainless purchased new in box. I have thus far only fired it on two occasions. Even after one full magazine the takedown lever will rotate clockwise approx. 45 deg. It will not go any further than that even if fired while left in the 45 position. Besides being an annoyance, is this something that is common and/or that needs to be remedied by Orimar? Thank You, Mike __________________ Time Warp

11-01-2003, 06:00 PM	#2
Herb User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Utah, in the land of the Sleeping Rainbow Posts: 1,457 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	riffraff, having never owned a Stoger I can't give you positive advice but on a regular Luger there is a wire spring located on the bottom of the holdopen opening, inside, and a corresponding slot in the holdopen shaft that locks onto this spring when it is the closed position. I would check that first. __________________ Utah, where gun control means a steady trigger pull

11-01-2003, 09:01 PM	#4
Herb User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Utah, in the land of the Sleeping Rainbow Posts: 1,457 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Steve, are you pushing the barrel to the rear and holding it there while turning the holdopen? On a vintage Luger this is a must or it just doesn't work. __________________ Utah, where gun control means a steady trigger pull

11-01-2003, 09:55 PM	#5
riffraff User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: central Arkansas Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Aha!, yes I am learning. The locking Bolt spring that Herb refered to is listed as N/A in my exploded view/parts list that came with my pistol. Instead what Orimar has done is place a spring loaded ball bearing in the center of the locking bolt that is located forward when the locking bolt is "pointed" down and down when the locking bolt is in the normal position. Any further info. on this problem with my/your pistol is still of great interest. Respondees and yet to respond please post. Thank You! Mike __________________ Time Warp

11-01-2003, 10:36 PM	#6
riffraff User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: central Arkansas Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Steve, do the locking bolts of your pistols have a definate "detent" feel/sound when the lever is moved to/from the take down to normal mode when the barrel extension assembly is not present? My pistol has a definate detent feel/sound when moved to the normal position but NOT to the take down position when the barrel extension is absent. I believe that the careful and judicious application of the right size of ball shaped die grinder tool bit with my Dremel tool to create a "pocket" for the ball to ride into when the locking bolt is moved to the normal position will solve my problem. What do you guys think? Mike __________________ Time Warp

11-01-2003, 08:39 PM	#3
Steve Richards User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 487 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I have two of the latter production guns and have the opposite problem. My takedown levers are VERY difficult to turn. Your problem certainly sounds like it needs to be corrected. If Herb's advise does not work, I would contact Orimar for a remedy. On mine, the spring is not visible as it is on a vintage gun. I have not taken the takedown levers out so I can only say that on a vintage gun they simply slide out (with force applied). I can only guess the same applies on the stainless. Steve

11-03-2003, 01:59 AM	#7
Steve Richards User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 487 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I just checked my .30cal and there is a definate click when I rotate the locking lever to the down position and again when I return it to the shooting position. Herb, I do push the top assembly back and hold it but it was a good question to ask. One never knows what somebody else knows and sometimes a game of 20 questions is all that will help solve a problem.

11-03-2003, 09:35 AM	#8
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	riffraff, creating a 'pocket' for the spring loaded ball is the answer to your problem... unless the spring behind the ball is damaged or otherwise too weak to hold the lever in place... grinding anything on your gun will void the warranty... DON'T do this if your warranty is a concern... send it to Orimar for repair instead...but if you have confidence in your ablility to create this pocket, and your gun is out of warranty...you should be able to solve your problem in about 60 seconds with your Dremel and the right shaped tool... __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

11-03-2003, 05:53 PM	#9
riffraff User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: central Arkansas Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thank You John and Steve and Herb. John, the warrenty is not a concern for me. The staked in spring loaded ball seems to me to be quite strong (spring that is), I do think that the formation of a pocket for the ball to rest in while in the normal position will fit the bill. Thanks for your help guys! Mike __________________ Time Warp

11-03-2003, 06:06 PM	#10
Thor User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico Posts: 4,583 Thanks: 958 Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts	There are several differences in these post war American made Lugers over the German counterparts. The sear bar is BLIND pinned into the reciever (you would have to drill out the pin if you needed to take out the bar) The trigger lever is retained in the sideplate by a flush cut roll pin. The trigger lever is NOT BEVELed on the front edge like the originals so a reset of the trigger by allowing the trigger bar plunger to extend is "iffy". Some of these design changes seem to work. Some dont. Any chance someone can post an exploded part diagram for the AIMCO vintage Lugers? __________________ Thor's Luger Clinic http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/ Ted Green (Thor Yaller Boots) 725 Western Hills Dr SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124 915-526-8925 Email thor340@aol.com ----------------------------------- John3:3 Jesus answered and said to him, "Most assuredly, I say to you, unless one is born again, he cannot see the kingdom of God."

11-03-2003, 06:12 PM	#11
Herb User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Utah, in the land of the Sleeping Rainbow Posts: 1,457 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	riffraff, be sure you make a 'ramp' for that ball to ride in, if it just pops into a hole you might never get it to pop out of there again. Steve, yes, on a vintage luger you have to push the barrel to the rear, hold it there then rotate the takedown lever downward. I'm right handed so I hold the luger in my right hand, push the barrel assembly to the rear with the palm of my left hand, hold it there and rotate the takedown lever downward with my thumb. Before I get chastized, make sure it is unloaded, also the safety has to be off or the barrel won't go far enough to the rear. __________________ Utah, where gun control means a steady trigger pull

11-04-2003, 06:48 AM	#12
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	Do not make the "pocket" large enough to accept the entire springloaded ball. just make a recessed place for it to rest slightly below the curved surface, perhaps about 25% of the ball's diameter and test... you can always take a little more off... but putting it back is a trick most of us are incapable of accomplishing gracefully... Good Luck. __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

11-04-2003, 06:41 PM	#13
riffraff User Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: central Arkansas Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks John. I definately understand. Mike __________________ Time Warp