grip screw seized

[sheepherder]

This thread seems like a good candidate for a 'sticky', so I thought I would throw in my $.02 worth...

A few weeks back, I decided to do some preventive maintenance on my 10 year old Nissan Xterra...I bought it new and had never changed the [platinum] spark plugs...They seemed to work just fine, but that is what PM is about...The # 1 plug wouldn't budge (aluminum heads!), so after checking the appropriate forum, I bought a spray can of PB Blaster...Ran the truck for a half hour to warm everything up, sprayed the plug holes, let it sit 4 hours...And started tightening/untightening the # 1 plug...It moved very slightly each way, then suddenly gave a 'screech' and unscrewed right out...After that one, I knew if it 'screeched', it was unscrewing...

I've used Kroil, Marvel Mystery Oil, BreakFree, 3in1 Oil, TapFree, many others...PB Blaster really impressed me...

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by rhuff

If you plan to refinish your Luger, then I would beadblast it with a very fine(less than 60 grit) abrasive. that will remove everything off of the steel.

I'd recommend doing this only if you don't mind seeing evidence that it has been done, afterward. The tiny peen marks left by the blasting will be evident under moderate magnification. The little dents will cover everything, even down into the stampings. One might consider a chemical removal of all rust and former finish, which would leave no marks.

I have two pistols that were, at the very least, bead blasted before they were refinished. In hand, with the naked eye, they look pretty good. Blasting evens out the appearance of the surfaces, smooths out small scratches and pits for the observer's eye...but if examined closely, a pistol so treated will show evidence of it.

I don't know of an easy way to get down into the recesses of the stampings to remove these marks, but the reachable surfaces should be able to be sanded, carefully, reasonably smooth. IIRC, 400 grit sandpaper would be acceptable for this. Don't forget to use a sanding block to help assure that the sanding is straight and flat--don't want to round off any corners, or create wavy-looking surfaces that are supposed to be dead flat.

[Olle]

Originally Posted by remerus

Sounds like an interesting idea Olle. Tell me how long do you boil the parts for when you do it? I would assume also you would need to emmerse the parts in a good mineral oil for some time afterwards to displace the water?

Sorry for the late reply, I forgot that I posted this... Anywho, you need to degrease everything thoroughly, then boil in distilled water. You'll see the patina turning black almost immediately, but I'd still boil for about 10-15 minutes, maybe more if the brown buildup is thick.

Blow the parts dry with compressed air while they are still hot, then use a thin penetrating oil to protect them. I use Brownells "After Bluing Oil" http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...-prod1086.aspx ), it will soak in everywhere and dry to a thin, waxy film. It's the best stuff I have found for protecting gun parts, you don't have to wipe it off or anything. Just shake off the excess and let it dry.

BTW: This method works quite well for refreshing case hardening as well. Case hardened parts are a royal PITA to blue, but it they have a brown patina you can make them look pretty darn good just by boiling them.

[cirelaw]

Do any of the applications damage or discolor the wooden grip?

[singleshotman]

I had a book that showed it was possible and very easy to adapt American 60 degree threads to work with Whitworth tapped holes. I do not rebember the title, but it was printed by the Government printing office during WW2. The resulting threads are a little loose, but they work fine.