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Unread 11-11-2002, 02:48 AM   #1
PerversP�©p�¨re
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Smile 1917 Erfurt

Just a try. Here are some close-ups of my 1917 Erfurt P-08. All matching, grips included. Only the mag doesn't. For ease of identification I lightened some pics and the bluing might appear lighter. Some other are made with a very contrasted lighting to pick-up markings and it tends to amplify the tool marks a bit.
OK, let's see if I posted this right!
PP.








(EBT edited and moved pictures)
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Unread 11-11-2002, 10:33 AM   #2
Pete Ebbink
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Nice looking Erfurt and simply great photos ! Among some of the best I have seen on the Forum...

Can you tell the other Forum members what camera you use ?

Regards,

Pete... <img src="graemlins/yltype.gif" border="0" alt="[typing]" />
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Unread 11-11-2002, 10:43 AM   #3
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Very nice, love the pictures and clarity, while having a unit marked piece is nice also!
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Unread 11-11-2002, 10:48 AM   #4
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(pictures and words moved by EBT to this thread, each single comment area may have up to seven pictures, to include smiley faces or images)

Excuse me! I exceeded the maximum number of pictures in my first post. Here's the last one, showing breech block and firing pin. PP.



(COMMENTs by Johnny Peppers moved also)

Nice photos. Someone asked a question about woods used in magazine bottoms. The picture of the magazine is an excellent example of a beech wood magazine bottom.
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Unread 11-11-2002, 11:23 AM   #5
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[quote]Originally posted by Wm. Pete Ebbink:
<strong>Nice looking Erfurt and simply great photos ! Among some of the best I have seen on the Forum...

Can you tell the other Forum members what camera you use ?

Regards,

Pete...</strong><hr></blockquote>

Ok; I do not have an electronic camera so I use an old 1980 era Asahi Pentax with a very sharp and dependable MacroTakumar 1:4/100mm. I shoot on 100 ISO negative film and scan the developed negatives in a film scanner at 2000ppi (could use 4000ppi. but it's overkill!).
Then I correct the files in Photoshop and save them in .PSD format.
I also make final size (4x6" at 100ppi.)pix and save them in Jpeg format for the Web; I try to stay around 50Kb for one pix so the quality is average with reasonable weight.
It is my first real posting on your board so if you have tricks and tips for me, I would appreciate. Some of these pictures could have been a bit smaller (4x5"), and some could use a different lighting. I'll try some "tenting" next time, it works very well with polished surfaces and metal. I'll try to get closer, too.
PP.
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Unread 11-12-2002, 10:36 AM   #6
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Absolutely superb photographs PerversP�©p�¨re.

Thanks so much for telling us how you made them. What type of scanner do you use?

You stated that you scan the developed negatives. How do then do the color correction to make them 'positives' ?
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Unread 11-12-2002, 10:35 PM   #7
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[quote]Originally posted by John Sabato:
<strong>Absolutely superb photographs PerversP�©p�¨re.

Thanks so much for telling us how you made them. What type of scanner do you use?

You stated that you scan the developed negatives. How do then do the color correction to make them 'positives' ?</strong><hr></blockquote>

I use a Canon Canoscan FS 4000 US. It comes ready for USB or SCSI connection, diapositive and filmstrip holders and APS adapter. Photoshop LE is bundled with the necessary drivers on the CD-Rom.
When you activate the "Import" command on your image editing software, the scanning utility appears, and ask you what kind of material you want to scan: diapositives, color-negs or B&W negatives. It then gives you access to resolution, curves and various image tweaking commands. You insert the film in the appropriate holder and push it in the scanning port. The machine pre-calibrates itself then lets you ask for thumbnails, preview and scanning commands. It has a very user-friendly interface and a very useful automatic electronic dust and scratches removal.
But when I do not have time for the whole shooting routine, I resort to scanning the pieces right on my flatbed scanner. Yes, it can be very effective if you experiment with the object's orientation (for shadows). Just be careful not to scratch the glass platen, put a white sheet of paper on top of the object and scan 100% at 300dpi. Retouch and color-correct image, size it about 4x5" at 100dpi. and save in Jpeg format for the web. Bingo!
Here's a Walther Manurhin PP I sampled using that method.
As you can see, there are many ways to skin a cat!
Have fun!
PP.

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Unread 11-13-2002, 11:19 AM   #8
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<img src="graemlins/offtopic.gif" border="0" alt="[offtopic]" /> Thanks for the summary of your scanning capabilities and technique... I will have to investigate this color negative scanning. I have many color negatives slides taken 30 years ago that I would love to capture digitally...
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Unread 11-13-2002, 12:39 PM   #9
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[quote]Originally posted by John Sabato:
<strong> <img src="graemlins/offtopic.gif" border="0" alt="[offtopic]" /> Thanks for the summary of your scanning capabilities and technique... I will have to investigate this color negative scanning. I have many color negatives slides taken 30 years ago that I would love to capture digitally...</strong><hr></blockquote>

If you have a CD burner and acces to a film scanner, it is THE way to preserve and retrieve your image files easily. The scanner automatically reverses the tonal values in your color negatives and takes into account the orange filter mask. It' a snap. I now mostly shoot in colorneg to take advantage of its larger exposure tolerance.
There is an excellent magazine pertaining to film and electronic photography, PC Photo
http://www.pcphotomag.com
They really found a specialized niche and their editorial content is never too-technical nor simplistic. Try it. PP.
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