Free up relic luger

02tobbe · 03-04-2010, 10:37 AM

Hello all!

My first post here.

I have recently accuired a luger in relic condition, grounddug with loaded mag, no bullet in chamber though.

I have started to try to get the mechanics to move again and it´s going forward, the rear linkage is free and I can pull it up until it´s supposed to start and pull the forward part backwards, but I can´t make that happen.

Is there something that can block the forward part from moving? The safety is on, and I haven´t managed to get it moving yet, could that interfere? The magasin is also still in place, but that shouldn´t be the problem, or?

Any hints on getting forward with this would be highly appreciated.

DavidJayUden · 03-04-2010, 11:37 AM

There is a mag. hold-open device that could be doing its job, and the safety is also an issue regarding movement of the toggle. Not to mention tight tolerances on the toggle slide groves.
Have you tried removing the grips and soaking the whole thing in a penetrating oil such as 50/50% ATF and acetone?
Send us some pictures. Sounds like a fun project for all of us.
dju

02tobbe · 03-04-2010, 04:48 PM

I have been spraying it with WD40 several times a day for a week, and before that I used electrolysis on it.

Here are some pictures of it. The grips are black plastic, have only one side though.

02tobbe · 03-04-2010, 04:58 PM

This is how it looked when i got it:

sheepherder · 03-04-2010, 06:40 PM

...Hmmm...It appears that besides being broken/rusted off, the safety is also "on"...You won't be able to draw the toggle assembly back until you get the safety "off"...

..I wouldn't know where to start...

alanint · 03-04-2010, 09:18 PM

Do you have both bakelite grips? When taking them off, where they damaged in any way? They are valuable in undamaged condition....

Norme · 03-04-2010, 09:56 PM

Hi, If you can remove the bakelite grip, you could try the thermal expansion method to break things free. Chill the gun in the freezer, then drop in a pot of boiling water. After a few minutes, remove, shake out as much water as you can, then spray liberally with WD40. I have done this with old black powder guns with some success. Good luck! Norm

02tobbe · 03-05-2010, 02:26 AM

postino:
Thanks, then I´ll know that I must keep working on getting the safety to the off position before anything else.

alanint:
Nope, have only one side.

Norme:
As you can see from my first pictures the grips is off on both sides. Thanks for tip on the hot/cold method, might give that a try.

alanint · 03-05-2010, 07:32 AM

Just one grip, if undamaged, is still worth money to a collector who needs that one....

sheepherder · 03-05-2010, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02tobbe

postino:
Thanks, then I´ll know that I must keep working on getting the safety to the off position before anything else.

Here's a poor pic taken with my cell phone (my digital camera battery is flat

) showing the safety off (top) and on (bottom)...Good luck freeing that up...

Norme · 03-05-2010, 08:42 AM

Hi again, It is not necessary to move the safety lever off "safe" to fully open the action of a WWII Luger. This only applies to guns with an unmodified sear bar manufactured prior to mid 1916. Regards, Norm

Macadoon · 03-05-2010, 09:17 AM

Out of interest, how did you get the gun into its current 'clean' condition from the rusted one?
I have just found a mud-caked Luger in the fields of france. A search of the word 'Somme' should find it on this forum.
Macadoon

02tobbe · 03-05-2010, 09:29 AM

alaint:
Could be but the grip stays with the gun

Macadoon:
Using electrolysis(bucket of water, car battery charger and some painting soda), it´s the absolut best way to remove rust.

sheepherder · 03-05-2010, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norme

Hi again, It is not necessary to move the safety lever off "safe" to fully open the action of a WWII Luger. This only applies to guns with an unmodified sear bar manufactured prior to mid 1916. Regards, Norm

Hi Norme! None of my three Lugers will open the toggle with the Safety on...two are commercials; one is a 1937 S/42...

Vlim · 03-05-2010, 12:52 PM

With the 'new safety' it is possible to open the toggle slightly, not fully.

The only way to free the toggle on this one is to get the blocking part of the safety out. Since this is a tight fit, the chance that you can free it is actually pretty good.

alanint · 03-05-2010, 12:58 PM

What was the purpose of drilling into the magazine? To make the rounds inert?

John Sabato · 03-05-2010, 01:02 PM

Soak it for DAYS in a bucket of KROIL or a mixture of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid... then try to work the parts away from each other. Do this until you have success. The safety bar that stands in front of the sear is not being held into the frame by anything other than rust since your photo shows the safety lever is broken... after soaking try hitting this part on top with a brass punch... if it moves you are in business for taking the gun apart...

...but once the magazine is removed, I wouldn't put too much effort into disassembly... just mount it on a plaque with the grip side up and it will make a great wall hanging in your den or gun room. Just my $0.02

sheepherder · 03-05-2010, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vlim

With the 'new safety' it is possible to open the toggle slightly, not fully.

Vlim -

My three will open the breech block 3/32"; 1/8"; and 3/16" , with the S/42 being the 3/32"...

Would these be the 'new safety' that you speak of???

And the 'old safety' - would that the the safety that pivots in the opposite direction???

The OP appears to have the 'new safety'...or would have, if it hadn't rusted away...

Norme · 03-05-2010, 02:03 PM

Hi Rich, This is a photo of my byf, just like the gun in question, with the safety on and the action open. Of course, if one wanted to disassemble further, the safety would have to be off, the take down lever deployed, and the trigger plate removed, as well as the magazine. This gun has a long way to go before that can be done! Regards, Norm

Norme · 03-05-2010, 02:27 PM

Hi Rich, me again. I can't believe you can't open the action of your 1937 S/42 when it's on safe. Here's a photo of mine. Regards, Norm

03-04-2010, 10:37 AM	#1
02tobbe User Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 19 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Free up relic luger Hello all! My first post here. I have recently accuired a luger in relic condition, grounddug with loaded mag, no bullet in chamber though. I have started to try to get the mechanics to move again and it´s going forward, the rear linkage is free and I can pull it up until it´s supposed to start and pull the forward part backwards, but I can´t make that happen. Is there something that can block the forward part from moving? The safety is on, and I haven´t managed to get it moving yet, could that interfere? The magasin is also still in place, but that shouldn´t be the problem, or? Any hints on getting forward with this would be highly appreciated.

03-05-2010, 07:32 AM	#9
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts	Just one grip, if undamaged, is still worth money to a collector who needs that one.... Last edited by alanint; 03-05-2010 at 08:55 AM.

03-05-2010, 01:02 PM	#17
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	Soak it for DAYS in a bucket of KROIL or a mixture of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid... then try to work the parts away from each other. Do this until you have success. The safety bar that stands in front of the sear is not being held into the frame by anything other than rust since your photo shows the safety lever is broken... after soaking try hitting this part on top with a brass punch... if it moves you are in business for taking the gun apart... ...but once the magazine is removed, I wouldn't put too much effort into disassembly... just mount it on a plaque with the grip side up and it will make a great wall hanging in your den or gun room. Just my $0.02 __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

03-05-2010, 02:03 PM	#19
Norme Always A Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,414 Thanks: 224 Thanked 2,591 Times in 930 Posts	Hi Rich, This is a photo of my byf, just like the gun in question, with the safety on and the action open. Of course, if one wanted to disassemble further, the safety would have to be off, the take down lever deployed, and the trigger plate removed, as well as the magazine. This gun has a long way to go before that can be done! Regards, Norm Attached Thumbnails

03-05-2010, 02:27 PM	#20
Norme Always A Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,414 Thanks: 224 Thanked 2,591 Times in 930 Posts	Hi Rich, me again. I can't believe you can't open the action of your 1937 S/42 when it's on safe. Here's a photo of mine. Regards, Norm Attached Thumbnails

03-04-2010, 11:37 AM	#2
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	There is a mag. hold-open device that could be doing its job, and the safety is also an issue regarding movement of the toggle. Not to mention tight tolerances on the toggle slide groves. Have you tried removing the grips and soaking the whole thing in a penetrating oil such as 50/50% ATF and acetone? Send us some pictures. Sounds like a fun project for all of us. dju

03-04-2010, 04:48 PM	#3
02tobbe User Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 19 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I have been spraying it with WD40 several times a day for a week, and before that I used electrolysis on it. Here are some pictures of it. The grips are black plastic, have only one side though.

03-04-2010, 04:58 PM	#4
02tobbe User Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 19 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	This is how it looked when i got it:

03-04-2010, 06:40 PM	#5
sheepherder Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal... Posts: 8,181 Thanks: 1,398 Thanked 4,438 Times in 2,327 Posts	...Hmmm...It appears that besides being broken/rusted off, the safety is also "on"...You won't be able to draw the toggle assembly back until you get the safety "off"... ..I wouldn't know where to start...

03-04-2010, 09:18 PM	#6
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts	Do you have both bakelite grips? When taking them off, where they damaged in any way? They are valuable in undamaged condition....

03-04-2010, 09:56 PM	#7
Norme Always A Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,414 Thanks: 224 Thanked 2,591 Times in 930 Posts	Hi, If you can remove the bakelite grip, you could try the thermal expansion method to break things free. Chill the gun in the freezer, then drop in a pot of boiling water. After a few minutes, remove, shake out as much water as you can, then spray liberally with WD40. I have done this with old black powder guns with some success. Good luck! Norm

03-05-2010, 02:26 AM	#8
02tobbe User Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 19 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	postino: Thanks, then I´ll know that I must keep working on getting the safety to the off position before anything else. alanint: Nope, have only one side. Norme: As you can see from my first pictures the grips is off on both sides. Thanks for tip on the hot/cold method, might give that a try.

03-05-2010, 08:42 AM	#11
Norme Always A Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 2,414 Thanks: 224 Thanked 2,591 Times in 930 Posts	Hi again, It is not necessary to move the safety lever off "safe" to fully open the action of a WWII Luger. This only applies to guns with an unmodified sear bar manufactured prior to mid 1916. Regards, Norm

03-05-2010, 09:17 AM	#12
Macadoon User Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Out of interest, how did you get the gun into its current 'clean' condition from the rusted one? I have just found a mud-caked Luger in the fields of france. A search of the word 'Somme' should find it on this forum. Macadoon

03-05-2010, 09:29 AM	#13
02tobbe User Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 19 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	alaint: Could be but the grip stays with the gun Macadoon: Using electrolysis(bucket of water, car battery charger and some painting soda), it´s the absolut best way to remove rust.

03-05-2010, 12:52 PM	#15
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,032 Thanks: 1,018 Thanked 3,873 Times in 1,184 Posts	With the 'new safety' it is possible to open the toggle slightly, not fully. The only way to free the toggle on this one is to get the blocking part of the safety out. Since this is a tight fit, the chance that you can free it is actually pretty good.

03-05-2010, 12:58 PM	#16
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts	What was the purpose of drilling into the magazine? To make the rounds inert?