Reattach Dutch Unit Plate - Page 2

lugerholsterrepair · 04-26-2021, 11:57 PM

BTW, I have a couple of the correct mags for that gun? I'd sell or trade?....WHAT! Dang dude, you better jump all over that before someone else does!

Grantas · 04-27-2021, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fla.Mallard

Several years ago I bought some pocket/belt clips for carrying concealed pistols. They attached with a piece of adhesive tape made by 3M. I attached them knowing full well they would not work for long especially since these were all steel pistols that were not lightweights.

Over a decade has passed and these clips are still attached showing no signs of loosening. Researching 3M adhesive tape may give you a good solution for solving your dilemma.

Remember the Shattuck pistols with a round mark on the side of the right hand ear, these were caused by his ID adhesive stickers.

Heinz · 04-27-2021, 09:08 PM

Vlim, did Dutch officers have to purchase their own sidearms? That might be an explanation of a Dutch contract Luger without a unit marking plate

Vlim · 04-28-2021, 04:29 AM

Yes, they did.

They could either buy directly from the army, what most of them did. But they could also purchase their pistol on the commercial market.

There is a nice account of an officer who bought a german P08 and had it checked at the arsenal. The bore was shot out, so the pistol was unservicable. To his enjoyment, the arsenal bought it from him for more than he had paid.

gill120 · 04-29-2021, 02:29 PM

I would add that Gorilla glue could be a temporary fx. I have a Sig 210 that I love but the rear frame was short and the slide/hammer would bite my hand. I bought an extentsion from a Sig Dealer made for curing this problem. They suggested that the piece be screwed onto the frame, I didn't like that so its been on the pistol for years with the use of Gorilla glue. Regards Dave

cirelaw · 04-29-2021, 03:46 PM

My research shows it was 'braised' on?? whatever that means?

Kiwi · 04-29-2021, 06:41 PM

Solder is a lead/tin mix and the solder is melted to glue the objects

Welding is using electricity or an oxygen/acetylene gas mix to melt iron/steel to glue the objects

Brazing is using brass rods to melt the objects together

Brass - hotter than solder, much cooler than welding

ithacaartist · 05-01-2021, 06:12 PM

The temperature at which 50/50 solder melts is below the range that straws small parts, so over-heating enough to damage the finish wouldn't be a big concern. A proper solder joint uses a flux that is acidic--whether paste or fluid--and therein lies the concern about the finish.

Contact cement should do the trick, but you only have one shot at positioning it. Something with a bit more working time might be appropriate. Whatever the choice, its cleanup should also be non-reactive with the finish.

It's a good idea to make sure the surfaces to be mated are dead flat and as clean of old mastic as possible. Clamping the work will also improve success.

MikeP · 05-03-2021, 11:14 AM

Think my Grandfather, WW1 aircraft mechanic and all around skillful man, would have called the original process "sweating."
A version of soldering, I believe.
Somewhere I have a lighter made from a wing wire turnbuckle he made and "sweated" a German buckle crown and a plate with his initials.

Heinz · 05-03-2021, 06:19 PM

You can undo the glue with no damage to the existing finish. You cannot undo solder. Since there is some question as to whether this pistol ever had a Unit plate, I would NOT suggest soldering

04-26-2021, 11:57 PM	#21
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,760 Thanks: 4,848 Thanked 3,099 Times in 1,426 Posts	BTW, I have a couple of the correct mags for that gun? I'd sell or trade?....WHAT! Dang dude, you better jump all over that before someone else does! __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

05-01-2021, 06:12 PM	#28
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,283 Thanks: 7,007 Thanked 2,476 Times in 1,319 Posts	The temperature at which 50/50 solder melts is below the range that straws small parts, so over-heating enough to damage the finish wouldn't be a big concern. A proper solder joint uses a flux that is acidic--whether paste or fluid--and therein lies the concern about the finish. Contact cement should do the trick, but you only have one shot at positioning it. Something with a bit more working time might be appropriate. Whatever the choice, its cleanup should also be non-reactive with the finish. It's a good idea to make sure the surfaces to be mated are dead flat and as clean of old mastic as possible. Clamping the work will also improve success. __________________ "... Liberty is the seed and soil, the air and light, the dew and rain of progress, love and joy."-- Robert Greene Ingersoll 1894

04-27-2021, 09:08 PM	#23
Heinz User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Greenville SC Posts: 1,004 Thanks: 377 Thanked 410 Times in 180 Posts	Vlim, did Dutch officers have to purchase their own sidearms? That might be an explanation of a Dutch contract Luger without a unit marking plate

04-28-2021, 04:29 AM	#24
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,032 Thanks: 1,018 Thanked 3,873 Times in 1,184 Posts	Yes, they did. They could either buy directly from the army, what most of them did. But they could also purchase their pistol on the commercial market. There is a nice account of an officer who bought a german P08 and had it checked at the arsenal. The bore was shot out, so the pistol was unservicable. To his enjoyment, the arsenal bought it from him for more than he had paid.

04-29-2021, 02:29 PM	#25
gill120 User Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 95 Thanks: 1 Thanked 18 Times in 11 Posts	I would add that Gorilla glue could be a temporary fx. I have a Sig 210 that I love but the rear frame was short and the slide/hammer would bite my hand. I bought an extentsion from a Sig Dealer made for curing this problem. They suggested that the piece be screwed onto the frame, I didn't like that so its been on the pistol for years with the use of Gorilla glue. Regards Dave

04-29-2021, 03:46 PM	#26
cirelaw Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: PORT ST LUCIE, FLORIDA Posts: 12,216 Thanks: 6,209 Thanked 4,133 Times in 2,173 Posts	My research shows it was 'braised' on?? whatever that means?

04-29-2021, 06:41 PM	#27
Kiwi User Join Date: Mar 2019 Location: Wrong side of the Delaware river Posts: 291 Thanks: 199 Thanked 413 Times in 162 Posts	Solder is a lead/tin mix and the solder is melted to glue the objects Welding is using electricity or an oxygen/acetylene gas mix to melt iron/steel to glue the objects Brazing is using brass rods to melt the objects together Brass - hotter than solder, much cooler than welding

05-03-2021, 11:14 AM	#29
MikeP User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: ILL Posts: 686 Thanks: 36 Thanked 452 Times in 198 Posts	Think my Grandfather, WW1 aircraft mechanic and all around skillful man, would have called the original process "sweating." A version of soldering, I believe. Somewhere I have a lighter made from a wing wire turnbuckle he made and "sweated" a German buckle crown and a plate with his initials.

05-03-2021, 06:19 PM	#30
Heinz User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Greenville SC Posts: 1,004 Thanks: 377 Thanked 410 Times in 180 Posts	You can undo the glue with no damage to the existing finish. You cannot undo solder. Since there is some question as to whether this pistol ever had a Unit plate, I would NOT suggest soldering