1916 Erfurt Question

josef · 10-26-2005, 07:36 PM

Way out of my league here on Imperial Lugers. Saw what appears to be an all matching 1916 dated Erfurt Luger rig today. One magazine matches, both are wood based and Imperial proofed. Comes with a hardshell holster. Didn't even think to check if the P08 is unit marked.
I have a couple questions.
-should any parts be strawed on this P08?
-should the grips be serialed to the pistol?
-would the finish be more of a salt blue than a rust blue?
-there were no markings on the back of the holster, is this normal for a WW1 era holster? All stitching appears tight and correct.
-And finally, the only obvious thing I see wrong is that when I pull back on the toggle with an empty magazine in place, the action does not hold open, so there is force against the magazine (which makes removing the mag difficult). Easy fix?

Any help would be greatly apprecaited, sorry I have no pics. Thanks again Gentlemen.
Joe

Navy · 10-26-2005, 08:16 PM

Hi Joe,

Welcome to the Forum..this is a great group.

Now to your questions:

I have a couple questions.
-should any parts be strawed on this P08?

Yes. The trigger, take-down lever and safety asembly should be strawed.
-should the grips be serialed to the pistol?
Yes, that was *generally* the practice; however, period replacement grips with no number are often encountered. The replacements may be checkered walnut or, for late war replacements, beech.

-would the finish be more of a salt blue than a rust blue?
These guns are rust blued; any other finish is a serious problem.

-there were no markings on the back of the holster, is this normal for a WW1 era holster? All stitching appears tight and correct.

Holster marking does not follow any particular pattern. I have found Imperial leather marked on the inside, under the bucket, on the closing strap and on the face of the holster. Suggest you dust the thing with talc or corn starch, give it a light dusting and see what shows up. A loupe and Ott light is handy here.

-And finally, the only obvious thing I see wrong is that when I pull back on the toggle with an empty magazine in place, the action does not hold open, so there is force against the magazine (which makes removing the mag difficult). Easy fix?

Not *really* my area of expertise; but there are loads of folks on this site who can diagnose functioning problems with dispatch.

Hope this helps!

Tom A

josef · 10-26-2005, 08:43 PM

Thanks once again Tom, you have helped me out before for sure. I feel fortunate to have your expertise so close at hand. take care,
Joe

Frank · 10-26-2005, 08:47 PM

Joe, the magazine release button and the ejector (on the right side of the Luger) should also be straw colored!

josef · 10-26-2005, 10:30 PM

Thank you Frank, take care,
Joe

John Sabato · 10-27-2005, 10:50 AM

The toggle not remaining open may not be a problem at all. This may be one of the Lugers that escaped the refit for a holdopen device. Do some searches for "holdopen" and see if you can find a photo of what they look like and where they sit when installed. You should also find several threads on possible causes in case you do have a holdopen and it isn't working...

Lugerdoc · 10-27-2005, 11:03 AM

John, All lugers made after late 1913 should have had the HO installed as original equipment. The most expensive correction to not holding open, is if the luger has a pre1914 breech block installed, that is not cut for a hold open or a pre1914 frame, not cut out for a HO. TH

Dwight Gruber · 10-27-2005, 11:04 AM

Holdopens were standard after 1913. There are any number of reasons for them not to function properly, John's suggestion is a good one.

--Dwight

10-26-2005, 07:36 PM	#1
josef User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: CANADA Posts: 194 Thanks: 4 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts	1916 Erfurt Question Way out of my league here on Imperial Lugers. Saw what appears to be an all matching 1916 dated Erfurt Luger rig today. One magazine matches, both are wood based and Imperial proofed. Comes with a hardshell holster. Didn't even think to check if the P08 is unit marked. I have a couple questions. -should any parts be strawed on this P08? -should the grips be serialed to the pistol? -would the finish be more of a salt blue than a rust blue? -there were no markings on the back of the holster, is this normal for a WW1 era holster? All stitching appears tight and correct. -And finally, the only obvious thing I see wrong is that when I pull back on the toggle with an empty magazine in place, the action does not hold open, so there is force against the magazine (which makes removing the mag difficult). Easy fix? Any help would be greatly apprecaited, sorry I have no pics. Thanks again Gentlemen. Joe

10-27-2005, 10:50 AM	#6
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	The toggle not remaining open may not be a problem at all. This may be one of the Lugers that escaped the refit for a holdopen device. Do some searches for "holdopen" and see if you can find a photo of what they look like and where they sit when installed. You should also find several threads on possible causes in case you do have a holdopen and it isn't working... __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

10-27-2005, 11:03 AM	#7
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	John, All lugers made after late 1913 should have had the HO installed as original equipment. The most expensive correction to not holding open, is if the luger has a pre1914 breech block installed, that is not cut for a hold open or a pre1914 frame, not cut out for a HO. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

10-26-2005, 08:16 PM	#2
Navy RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Dc 'burbs in Virginia Posts: 2,482 Thanks: 0 Thanked 16 Times in 10 Posts	Hi Joe, Welcome to the Forum..this is a great group. Now to your questions: I have a couple questions. -should any parts be strawed on this P08? Yes. The trigger, take-down lever and safety asembly should be strawed. -should the grips be serialed to the pistol? Yes, that was generally the practice; however, period replacement grips with no number are often encountered. The replacements may be checkered walnut or, for late war replacements, beech. -would the finish be more of a salt blue than a rust blue? These guns are rust blued; any other finish is a serious problem. -there were no markings on the back of the holster, is this normal for a WW1 era holster? All stitching appears tight and correct. Holster marking does not follow any particular pattern. I have found Imperial leather marked on the inside, under the bucket, on the closing strap and on the face of the holster. Suggest you dust the thing with talc or corn starch, give it a light dusting and see what shows up. A loupe and Ott light is handy here. -And finally, the only obvious thing I see wrong is that when I pull back on the toggle with an empty magazine in place, the action does not hold open, so there is force against the magazine (which makes removing the mag difficult). Easy fix? Not really my area of expertise; but there are loads of folks on this site who can diagnose functioning problems with dispatch. Hope this helps! Tom A

10-26-2005, 08:43 PM	#3
josef User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: CANADA Posts: 194 Thanks: 4 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts	Thanks once again Tom, you have helped me out before for sure. I feel fortunate to have your expertise so close at hand. take care, Joe

10-26-2005, 08:47 PM	#4
Frank RIP Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Hot & Dry PHX, AZ Posts: 2,078 Thanks: 24 Thanked 163 Times in 87 Posts	Joe, the magazine release button and the ejector (on the right side of the Luger) should also be straw colored!

10-26-2005, 10:30 PM	#5
josef User Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: CANADA Posts: 194 Thanks: 4 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts	Thank you Frank, take care, Joe

10-27-2005, 11:04 AM	#8
Dwight Gruber User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 3,889 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1,281 Times in 423 Posts	Holdopens were standard after 1913. There are any number of reasons for them not to function properly, John's suggestion is a good one. --Dwight