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#1 |
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Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Northeast Georgia
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I’m a new user here, but not new to online weapon forums.
I have been collecting WWII US rifles and pistols and decided to add a couple German examples. I bought an amazing P-38 recently from a local elderly collector that has decided to thin the herd. I mentioned I would also like to find a Luger and he contacted me today with 3 options he would sell; I’m meeting him tomorrow. I don’t have photos, but all his stuff is top notch, matching, non import marks; so I know when he says they are nice, they are nice. Below is what he texted me and I’d like to get any opinions on which one would be best if I’m getting one. I’m tempted to buy 2. I want a 9mm caliber and #’s 1 and 3 are 9mm. I know basic facts about Lugers only. Any thoughts!! I have 3 nice all matching Luger you may be interested in. 1) German Dated 1916 DWM all matching except mag 9mm $1400 2) German 1920 DMW Commercial 7.65/. 30 luger all matching with matching mag $1300 3) German DWM all matching Double dated 1917/1920 with regiment codes 3./J.R.10.8 marked. Very nice 1500 I could bring all 3 and have you take a peak anytime if you wish. They are nice ones. Take care |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Northeast Georgia
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Sorry I accidentally posted this twice. I’m not sure how to delete one on this forum.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
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I would start with #1or3 since they are both 9mm. If you want to shoot them than the 9mm ammo is easier and cheaper to find. But, from your description they are all nice so whatever you choose you can't go wrong.
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#4 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Apr 2015
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Welcome to the Luger Forum!
Great news! Nice choices, too! I hope you buy all 3 of those lugers and hopefully any story that goes with them! Even better, he may have the Bring Back papers, which adds interest and provenance. There are several things to consider with the Lugers, but assuming that all three are complete and correct (except for the mis-matched magazine - which is very common), assuming the grips are not chipped and they are in working order. Each are easily worth $2,000 - $2,500. #3. The unit marked 1917 would probably be the most interesting to you. It was made in the middle of WW-1 and when DWM was at maximum production. The 1920 is a property stamp, not a date, which just meant that the German government was claiming the weapon. The unit markings will take a little research. My second choice is 1916 DWM military and thus the most interesting to me. It's a fairly common years - lots were made for WW-1. The Commercial luger is a good choice with the matching magazine. They don't normally have a date stamp, but a lot of them were made up from military luger parts after WW-2, so make sure you get the serial number on that one (frame front) with the suffix, if there is one. Regardless, see if he will allow you to photograph all 3 of them and post them here. We are all very interested in the Lugers, even if you don't choose to own them. Get a good set from each side, top and the front with the serial number and barrel markings. |
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#5 |
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Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
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All are good prices, military sells well later.
I'd go with #3 Ed
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Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV |
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#6 |
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Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Northeast Georgia
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Thank you all for the input, I don’t think I can go wrong with any of them, I was mainly between #1 and #3. The condition when I see them may be a deciding factor also. I was concerned that the 1920 pistol would have a higher chance of being re arsenaled, but with all matching numbers that’s unlikely. I don’t think he would have collected anything that wasn’t in original finish also.
I have an extra all correct Springfield M1 Garand and Winchester M1 carbine I could easily sell locally within my group to cover the cost of buying both. I’m not going to loose money on them. I will post pictures after I see him tomorrow, he usually would send photos, but I’ll see them in person. I may be looking for regiment ID help if I go with #3, that would be interesting to know more history on it. Thanks again you all are great. |
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#7 |
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If indeed in nice condition and all matching and original, #1 hands down.
Ron
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If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Since you collect WW2 US rifles and pistols and want the German pistols as representative pieces I would want the best examples of the WW2 P.38 and WW2 era Luger I could find. I'd look for condition, not cheap.
As for the three Lugers offered, at those prices I'd take all three of them for their investment potential and as place holders while continuing to look for a high condition WW2 era representative piece. Jack |
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#10 |
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Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Northeast Georgia
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I meet my local gentleman this morning and looked at all 3 options. All I think were very nice, but not as prestine as I hoped, but these are 100+ year old guns that were used.
I went with the dual dated 1917/1920. I brought it home and tore it down pretty far. I could barely get anything on a white cloth to come off. It is all matching even down to the firing pin. The barrel is like a mirror with deep grooves and no pitting. I will download some photos to get opinions. The other two were nice, he was a little confused at which one the other two were that he referenced. One had a really nice finish but the side plate had been renumbered. The other was in good shape but I couldn’t get it to lockback with the magazine in or out, no matter the safety setting. The dual dates had everything except a matching magazine. I was going to buy two, but settled for one. I may keep an eye out for a WW2 Mauser production to match my P-38. I know some of you are sick I didn’t buy all 3, but I have enough invested in my collection with multiples. |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Northeast Georgia
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I created an album with 15 pictures, but do you have to copy the URL for each picture to be able to add it to this post? There has to be a faster way? You can’t load them straight from your device?
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#12 |
Lifer
Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Apr 2015
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Choose GO ADVANCED when you edit.
Under "Additional Items" there is a button for "Manage Attachments". It pops up a second window for attaching files. After you identify them, you press UPLOAD. |
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#14 |
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Here are my 2 German finds lately. Luger and Mauser 1944 P-38 like new inside and out. Got it with the original holster and marked magazine for $1000 total.
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#15 |
Lifer
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2) German 1920 DMW Commercial 7.65/. 30 luger all matching with matching mag $1300
I would have jumped on this gun simply from an investment point of view ... a matching magazine Luger goes only up in price over time. IMO $1300.00 is a steal.
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Whoever said that "money can't buy you happiness" never bought a Luger. WTB - Take Down Lever & Trigger Plate (#90) for an Imperial Artillery.
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#16 |
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While I agree with Ron that I'd have taken the 1916, there were no bad choices and you made an excellent buy.
The 1920 property stamp means it was in government service during the Weimar Republic era and the unit stamp is also from that period. I believe it translates to Company 3, Infantry Regiment 10, weapon number 8. |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Nov 2023
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This may need to switch to a new post, but need some advice on a mechanical issue with the 1917/1920 Luger I bought.
I shot it yesterday and it feed, ejected and feed the next round perfect, but the trigger wouldn’t rest for a second shot. I looked at some posts on here and realized the trigger bar plunger was locked back. I pulled the trigger bar and ejector bar and cleaned everything. There was cosmoline in the plunger channel and after some work it was free floating; the spring was in great shape. I just shot it again and it feeds everything in the magazine now. The only issue I see with it is it won’t lock back after the last round. I have one original magazine that I had to take apart to remove comsmoline inside. It functions smoothly and locks back the bolt when opened by hand. I was shooting cheap blazer 115 FMJ, but tried some hollow points I had in my carry pistol with the same results. I should have brought some 124 grain. The action is smooth, clean and lubed correctly. Any suggestions. It shoots great. It has a nice trigger, just hard to predict the break yet. I was still mostly hitting 2” circle at 12 yards. I would just like a lockback on the last round. Thanks, Brian |
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#18 | |
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Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Northeast Georgia
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I bought another P-38 from my local contact after he texted me on Saturday. This is a 1943 Walther in matching like new condition, with WW2 AC magazine and holster. It is a nice compliment to my 1944 Mauser P-38. I don’t think I really need a Spreeworks; maybe. I need to sell an extra M1-Carbine and M1 Garand to afford all these new German pistols. LOL |
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#19 |
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Doubs, do you know what the 8.8 is by the lanyard holder. There is also an 8.83 I believe at the underside base of the barrel, is that standard?
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#20 | |
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The 8,83 under the barrel indicates a bore diameter of .347". That is from the top of one land to the top of an opposing land. The groove diameter will be larger and should measure .355" if done to strict specifications. However, there are variances as you'll find 8,81 & 8,82 marked barrels. WRT use in WW2, it's quite possible that it was. |
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