What can you tell me about my Luger?

cneider · 02-03-2013, 01:04 PM

I inherited a DWM P08 Luger, Serial Number 4275. It doesn't have any Imperial, Weimar or Nazi proof marks on it. It has "GERMANY" stamped on the left side of the receiver and "N" with a crown on it stamped on it. I understand that may denote pre-1940 manufacture and proof fired with smokeless powder, "N" standing for Nitro. Also it has a lower case script "i" stamped on it. Any ideas on the origins of this pistol? Export model, perhaps?

Curly1 · 02-03-2013, 01:21 PM

Welcome to the forum.

Can you post more pics?

cneider · 02-03-2013, 01:25 PM

Sorry, that's all I have for now. I'm having it rebarrelled and re-blued and putting new grips on it. I'm not worried about diminishing its collector value, I want it as a shooter. Also, I notice it doesn't have a year of manufacture stamped on the upper receiver like other Lugers have. What's up with that, Curly?

Ron Wood · 02-03-2013, 01:25 PM

The "i" is part of the serial number. The gun is a 1920 "Alphabet Commercial" and the GERMANY is an export stamping.

cneider · 02-03-2013, 01:27 PM

Also, the extractor doesn't have the last 2 digits of the serial number stamped on it. FWIW

mrerick · 02-03-2013, 01:29 PM

It looks to be matching and in original finish. .30 Luger, right?

Re-barreling it will eliminate any collector interest, and probably reduce it's value.

it was made for export in the early 1920s (probably 1922).

Marc

cneider · 02-03-2013, 01:29 PM

Reproduction? You mean it's fake?

cneider · 02-03-2013, 01:30 PM

I think it's 9mm. At least, that's what we were firing through it last year.

mjanway · 02-03-2013, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cneider

Reproduction? You mean it's fake?

That's part of his signature. Your pistol is real.

cneider · 02-03-2013, 02:55 PM

Ok. He had me going there!

Curly1 · 02-03-2013, 03:57 PM

Whay are you having it rebarreled is it shot out?

cneider · 02-03-2013, 04:54 PM

Yes, the bore looked pretty smooth.

Ron Wood · 02-03-2013, 05:09 PM

Have you shot it? Do not assume that since the bore is not new looking that it will not be accurate. I have seen Lugers with bores that looked like sewer pipes that could group better than the marksmanship ability of the person that was shooting it. Try it before you rebuild it, it might save you some money and will keep it original.

DavidJayUden · 02-03-2013, 05:52 PM

Same goes for re-bluing it. Once done the value us cooked. And to us odd-balls, your gun is far more attractive as-is than if it were all shiney and nice.
dju

rhuff · 02-03-2013, 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cneider

Also, the extractor doesn't have the last 2 digits of the serial number stamped on it. FWIW

Commerical Alphabet Lugers do not have extractors that are number matched to the pistol, only military models.

Lugerdoc · 02-04-2013, 12:13 PM

CN & RH, If your extractor is original, it will have the last 2 digits of the serial stamped on the inside. TH

cneider · 04-29-2013, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrerick

It looks to be matching and in original finish. .30 Luger, right?

Re-barreling it will eliminate any collector interest, and probably reduce it's value.

it was made for export in the early 1920s (probably 1922).

Marc

Good call, Marc! I just got it back from the gunsmith. He had it for 3 months and never touched it, then he died over the weekend. So it's still in its original condition, with its original barrel.

I tried jacking a 9mm in the chamber and it was a no-go. So I looked in the chamber with a borelight and noticed a shoulder cut in the chamber. I also miked the bore with some digital calipers and got 7.65 mm +10mm (or thereabouts.) .30 Luger, right? I've already contacted Numrich about returning the 9mm barrel. I think I'll put the new grips on it, but keep the old ones, of course.

So why wasn't the caliber stamped on this firearm? To reiterate, it's a DWM "Alphabet Series" commercial model. S/N 4275 "i". Does anyone have any reference data to verify what caliber this is?

Is .30 Luger ammo hard to come by?

Also, I just happen to own a P08 upper assembly in 9mm. Would it be safe, or prudent to try slipping this slide over the lower and firing 9mm's?

Regards,

Clark

cneider · 04-29-2013, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Wood

Have you shot it? Do not assume that since the bore is not new looking that it will not be accurate. I have seen Lugers with bores that looked like sewer pipes that could group better than the marksmanship ability of the person that was shooting it. Try it before you rebuild it, it might save you some money and will keep it original.

Didn't go through with re-barreling it. Turns out it's not even a 9mm. .30 Luger?

cneider · 04-29-2013, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Wood

Have you shot it? Do not assume that since the bore is not new looking that it will not be accurate. I have seen Lugers with bores that looked like sewer pipes that could group better than the marksmanship ability of the person that was shooting it. Try it before you rebuild it, it might save you some money and will keep it original.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidJayUden

Same goes for re-bluing it. Once done the value us cooked. And to us odd-balls, your gun is far more attractive as-is than if it were all shiney and nice.
dju

Didn't go through with re-bluing it. Is .30 Luger ammo hard to come by?

DavidJayUden · 04-29-2013, 10:09 PM

Check Gunbroker for .30 Luger. Not under just every rock, but probably easier than .22LR. The other 9mm upper should/may fit right on. Try it. That's how I got my "Navy". A commercial lower and Navy upper. Fit right on.
dju

02-03-2013, 01:04 PM	#1
cneider User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 59 Thanks: 28 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	What can you tell me about my Luger? I inherited a DWM P08 Luger, Serial Number 4275. It doesn't have any Imperial, Weimar or Nazi proof marks on it. It has "GERMANY" stamped on the left side of the receiver and "N" with a crown on it stamped on it. I understand that may denote pre-1940 manufacture and proof fired with smokeless powder, "N" standing for Nitro. Also it has a lower case script "i" stamped on it. Any ideas on the origins of this pistol? Export model, perhaps? Attached Thumbnails

02-03-2013, 01:21 PM	#2
Curly1 User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Upstate New York Posts: 1,228 Thanks: 111 Thanked 702 Times in 364 Posts	Welcome to the forum. Can you post more pics? __________________ Laugh hard and often. Gary

02-03-2013, 01:25 PM	#4
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 6,986 Thanks: 1,065 Thanked 5,088 Times in 1,674 Posts	The "i" is part of the serial number. The gun is a 1920 "Alphabet Commercial" and the GERMANY is an export stamping. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

02-03-2013, 01:29 PM	#6
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,900 Thanks: 1,370 Thanked 3,094 Times in 1,503 Posts	It looks to be matching and in original finish. .30 Luger, right? Re-barreling it will eliminate any collector interest, and probably reduce it's value. it was made for export in the early 1920s (probably 1922). Marc __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

02-03-2013, 03:57 PM	#11
Curly1 User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Upstate New York Posts: 1,228 Thanks: 111 Thanked 702 Times in 364 Posts	Whay are you having it rebarreled is it shot out? __________________ Laugh hard and often. Gary

02-03-2013, 01:27 PM	#5
cneider User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 59 Thanks: 28 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Also, the extractor doesn't have the last 2 digits of the serial number stamped on it. FWIW

02-03-2013, 01:30 PM	#8
cneider User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 59 Thanks: 28 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	I think it's 9mm. At least, that's what we were firing through it last year.

02-03-2013, 02:55 PM	#10
cneider User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 59 Thanks: 28 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Ok. He had me going there!

02-03-2013, 04:54 PM	#12
cneider User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 59 Thanks: 28 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Yes, the bore looked pretty smooth.

02-03-2013, 05:09 PM	#13
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 6,986 Thanks: 1,065 Thanked 5,088 Times in 1,674 Posts	Have you shot it? Do not assume that since the bore is not new looking that it will not be accurate. I have seen Lugers with bores that looked like sewer pipes that could group better than the marksmanship ability of the person that was shooting it. Try it before you rebuild it, it might save you some money and will keep it original. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

02-03-2013, 05:52 PM	#14
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	Same goes for re-bluing it. Once done the value us cooked. And to us odd-balls, your gun is far more attractive as-is than if it were all shiney and nice. dju

02-04-2013, 12:13 PM	#16
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	CN & RH, If your extractor is original, it will have the last 2 digits of the serial stamped on the inside. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

04-29-2013, 10:09 PM	#20
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	Check Gunbroker for .30 Luger. Not under just every rock, but probably easier than .22LR. The other 9mm upper should/may fit right on. Try it. That's how I got my "Navy". A commercial lower and Navy upper. Fit right on. dju