Is this a reblue?

[Curly1]

I'm thinking yes.

http://www.simpsonltd.com/product_in...098db402790494

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Curly1

I'm thinking yes.

http://www.simpsonltd.com/product_in...098db402790494

I'm thinking your thinking yes is correct...

The high points a holster would wear against (muzzle side, sideplate) are still blued...Odd for a wartime Luger...

It's on hold...Did you buy it???

[mrerick]

The pin holding the toggle joint axle in place appears to be dark. Doesn't that indicate it could be a reblue?

The safety sear block isn't shown either...

Marc

[alanint]

The bleached grips also indicate a restoration. No way grips remained that oil-free after so many years.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by alanint

The bleached grips also indicate a restoration. No way grips remained that oil-free after so many years.

Doug, I'm converting an Enfield No 4 to a No 5 configuration...The wood [walnut] is quite oil impregnated, and the forward part of the fore end is sanded down below the oil impregnation...How can I get the rest of the stock free of oil??? You mention bleaching...What kind, how, and how long???

Thank You!

(Sorry to hijack your thread, Curly...)

[Norme]

Salt blued Mauser Lugers (1937 and later) had blued toggle pins. The grips on the Simpson gun may have been cleaned when the chip was repaired. Regards, Norm

[alanint]

Originally Posted by postino

Doug, I'm converting an Enfield No 4 to a No 5 configuration...The wood [walnut] is quite oil impregnated, and the forward part of the fore end is sanded down below the oil impregnation...How can I get the rest of the stock free of oil??? You mention bleaching...What kind, how, and how long???

Thank You!

(Sorry to hijack your thread, Curly...)

Hi Rich,

One method is to get a long, thin box and fill it with the best Kitty litter. Place the stock in the box, covered with the litter and shake every couple of days until enough oil is removed to satisfy you. This will remove the top cover of oil without attacking the wood.
Really heavy oil soaking can be initially removed with the stock in an oven at medium heat to bleed the heavy stuff off.
They make chemical oil removers available from places like Brownell, but that's my last resort.
Another secret to remove dings is to take a paper towel and fold it over a couple of times. Then soak the paper towel liberally in water. Take the soaked paper towel and place it directly over the ding. Then take a flat soldering iron at high heat and press it into the wet paper towel directly over the ding. The forced steam the paper towel lets off will penetrate the wood and lift out small to medium dings. (This will not work on deep gouges or cuts).
Good Luck!

[DavidJayUden]

Regarding the Luger, I vote orig. finish. It certainly was not buffed in any way as all the edges are like new, and dows show a small bit of use. Bottom line is that if I were a player on it I'd want Simpsons to guarantee it in writing.
I've always used Ezy-Off oven cleaner with good success to get oil out of wood.
dju

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by alanint

Hi Rich,

One method is to get a long, thin box and fill it with the best Kitty litter. Place the stock in the box, covered with the litter and shake every couple of days until enough oil is removed to satisfy you.

Huh! never heard of that one...Kinda like if you drop your cell phone in water, take it out and put it in a zip-lock bag filled with rice for a couple days...Supposed to draw the water/moisture out of the phone...

I've done the Easy-Off occasionally over the years, but it does turn the wood white...IIRC...

[wlyon]

My vote,at least from the pictures, is original finish. Bill

[Curly1]

No I did not buy it but was curious as to the condition compared to my 1939 42 which has wear on the high points of the side plate.

Maybe it was never issued or just sat in a drawer during the war.