Yet another Newbie with...

[Magic Jar]

Originally Posted by postino

There is a letter under the frame serial...I'm not that versed to tell what it is...

It's a 'k'.

Originally Posted by postino

...Pics aren't focused enough to be certain...but looks buffed & reblued...

Hey, I said I lack photo talent...

Thanks all for the observations.

I, too, think it's been re-blued, but the wear on the tip of the barrel and on the sideplate puzzled me. That's why my original suspicions of mixed parts arose.

How much (% speaking) does it de-value a gun when this has happened?

James

[Ron Wood]

I guess I will be more direct. The gun has been buffed, heavily, and reblued. It is no where near $1000. If you trade at that level you will come up short on the deal at least $400, probably closer to $500.

[wlyon]

I agree, looks like a reblue. The parts that should be strawed look blued in your pictures? ( trigger,takedown lever, safety). Bill

[Magic Jar]

Thanks all. Those comments are quite helpful.

James

[lugerholsterrepair]

but it looks buffed and reblued. Looking at the safety lever there is no doubt it has been buffed and reblued.

It is now a $400 pistol IMO. As I said before.. a reblued pistol would immediately..if not sooner kill the deal for me.

Keep a firm hold on your thousand dollar trade item.

[Magic Jar]

Originally Posted by lugerholsterrepair

... As I said before.. a reblued pistol would immediately..if not sooner kill the deal for me. ...

Well, lugerholsterrepair, I don't know what comes before "immediately" in timing, but I think I get your drift.

The short story is I'm now the owner of this Luger. Yep, after reading all the comments and poring over myriad threads on this forum, I decided to take the plunge and at least acquire a "starter" gun.

Well-armed with the information I obtained from those of you on this forum I approached my friend this afternoon with a proposition. In the end, we reached an agreement that left both of us happy. My friend (and frequent business 'partner') has my trade item, and I have the gun with more 'booty' on the way. It's all good.

I believe that I can use this gun to springboard into the world of Lugers. So, yes, I know that this can become a habit. (Is there something akin to AA for Luger addicts?)

Now, with the accumulated wisdom on this forum, I can begin to chase down those other leads I have for LLH (Lugers Looking for Homes). It'll be fun.

Once more, thank you for your help.

Just in case there's a former colleague on board, I was "RA All the Way" USASA '59 - '62, ALS, then stationed at Herzo Base, FRG, '60 - '62. After active duty I served for another nine years as an "Independent Contractor" (translator/interpreter).

Have a safe and happy Memorial Weekend!

James

[lugerholsterrepair]

James, Congratulations. That is the key to a happy transaction. Both parties are happy. Lugers are fascinating on many levels. My first few aquisitions were not the kind or condition I came to be interested in but everyone has to start somewhere!

Show off your booty...I mean the other stuff you got with the pistol.

RA myself..Thought VN was going to be the last war on the Planet and I wanted to get in on it...Older.. thank God and wiser.



Look forward to your further participation.

[Magic Jar]

Thanks, Jerry, for you comment.

I'll get a photo of the holster up soon. That's the only extra that relates to this gun. The other extras are cash (always good) and a couple of artifacts unrelated to weapons...unless one considers a pot (Native American) a weapon.

James

[Magic Jar]

Well, drat, I've already run into a problem...I think.

When I field-stripped this gun yesterday I didn't pay much attention to the fact that when I pulled the toggles to the rear in order to rotate the forward release lever down the toggles did not remain in a locked-to-the-rear position. My left forefinger easily reached and rotated the lever down. I then released the toggles forward and continued to remove the barrel from the frame. I thought that normal.

Then, this morning, I reviewed a couple of the videos about disassembly/assembly of the gun and noticed that in each case when the toggles were moved to the rear they locked into position.

Whoops! Does this mean that there's a part missing? Is there something my brain is missing? I've tried the same move with the safety on and off. The toggles still do not lock to the rear. I'm concerned now that this gun is malfunctioning.

Of course, there is the all likelihood that it is I who is malfunctioning.

Any assistance is appreciated.

James

[lugerholsterrepair]

James..When you buy a shooter there is a primary directive..it must shoot. Take off the barrel..upper reciever. To the right of the magazine well there should be a toggle holdopen. Look to see if it is there..if it is not there will be a well cut out where it once was. If it IS there slide a magazine into the pistol and you can see it raise. If it is there and raises it is functioning properly. REMEMBER..the toggles will not lock back without an empty magazine in the pistol.
The safety has nothing to do with this function.

[Ron Wood]

If you are field stripping the gun, naturally you have removed the magazine. The device that holds the toggle in the rearward position is activated by the button on an empty magazine. Its purpose is to inform the shooter that the gun is empty. So, after the gun is assembled, insert an empty magazine and I'll bet the toggles will lock to the rear. If they don't, then you have a broken or missing holdopen.
Good luck!
Ron

[Magic Jar]

Once again, Jerry and Ron, thanks.

That's the key, the one magazine that was in the pistol does not seem to function with the toggle. I tried the other two mags and they work fine. Toggle remains in the rear.

I'll compare that faulty mag with the others. It's different in that it had a number (2662) stamped across the bottom of the aluminum, a '2' above that and an emblem (worn and difficult to read even with a jeweler's loupe).

I should have tested with the other mags.

Thanks.

James

[sheepherder]

I have had original Luger mags that did not trip the holdopen. All my Mec-Gar mags do trip the holdopen.

[Aaron]

Many old hands connected with this forum have encouraged new Luger purchasers with the admonition that they have begun a new addiction, and that their first Luger will lead to another, then another, etc., all adding up to a lifetime hobby of collecting. I, on the other hand, would caution first time buyers that acquiring an inferior first Luger can sour one on these weapons completely and for all time. I therefore would advise careful consideration before beginning with any old third rate Luger which will not enhance one's budding love affair. Get some help, get a knowledgable mentor, but be careful!

[Magic Jar]

Originally Posted by Aaron

... I, on the other hand, would caution first time buyers that acquiring an inferior first Luger can sour one on these weapons completely and for all time. ...

Thanks, Aaron. Is this meant to be generic good advice, which I believe it is, or is your comment meant to imply that I've purchaced an inferior Luger?

If I do have an inferior gun, that's okay. At my age I won't be collecting a lot of Lugers, so it seems to me that by trading for this one, even though it's not a collectible, would fall into the realm of learning. I will learn a lot from this one and from reading topics on this forum. Those two things, plus perhaps finding that 'mentor' you mention, should lead me in the right direction when I make that next acquisition. At least, that's what I hope will happen.

In any case, I am appreciative of any and all comments and advice.

James

[lugerholsterrepair]

I think most of us have had a less than stellar start in Luger collecting! Only the very lucky find that 99% rare Luger the first time out. I agree with James..nothing like owning something to let you learn first hand. Daggers..helmets..It's all the same.

I know several Members here who started late but built pretty fantastic collections in a short time.

Main thing is to START. Learn and find your interest..Then fine tune that interest. Some are collectors, some shooters some are purists. We can't all be the same.

James ..don't take ANY comments here as personal. We are not all authors who re read what we write to filter out nuances. Mostly it's just comments off the cuff. like pecans that fell off the tree..leave the bad ones..get the ones with meat in them.

[Aaron]

Here's what I meant: Lugers are unbelievably finicky, even some of the better ones. First time buyers usually want to shoot their Lugers, and beginners can spend weeks and months getting one to work correctly, if at all. Variations in ammo, magazines, defective parts, springs, shooting stance, etc. can turn a beginner's new Luger into a nightmare. That's why I advise doing one's best to make sure he has a chance of success by trying to begin with a Luger that has no issues. Otherwise the experience can lead to total disappointment. And yes, to me a Luger with issues is an inferior Luger.

[Magic Jar]

I understand and quite agree with you Aaron, and if nothing else, I'm patient and tenacious.

Jerry, I like you pecan analogy. I'll get "cracking", and after engaging in internet exchanges for a long time (before Al Gore) I don't take comments personally. Anyway, I've got a pretty thick skin, so even if they are directed to me or my intelligence level I tend to shrug them off.

Incidentally, I don't think any of the comments to me on this thread have been anything but constructive.

James

[Magic Jar]

Originally Posted by wlyon

I agree, looks like a reblue. The parts that should be strawed look blued in your pictures? ( trigger,takedown lever, safety). Bill

Bill, thanks for this comment. Just which parts should look strawed? BTW I understand the term.

James

[Ron Wood]

James,
Bill indicated most of the parts that should be strawed (trigger, takedown lever, safety). In addition, the magazine release and ejector should be strawed, and the little "tab" that blocks the sear when the safety is engaged should be "in the white", i.e. no blue or straw just raw metal. Also the little pin, the tip of which shows on top of the left toggle knob, should be in the white (this is the most common evidence of re-blue as most refinishers do not bother to disassemble the toggle train to refinish).