my profile |
register |
faq |
search upload photo | donate | calendar |
01-25-2010, 11:05 AM | #1 |
New User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Assembly of 1938 S/42
I just registered on the forum and maybe this question has been asked here before. I own a numbers matched Luger, 1938 S/42. Occasionally through the years I have disassembled and assembled the gun numerous times to clean and oil, etc. Last night I disassembled it as usual cleaned and oiled, but now I now cannot turn the 'locking bolt'. The bolt won't line up and slides up on the steel spring incased in the frame. I cannot wiggle the locking bolt into place. Anyone have advice for me on how to align the locking bolt? I've cleaned the frame where the bolt goes in using solvent, oil and compress air to blow anything out that could have settled underneath the 'steel spring'. I call it a steel spring because I don't know what its technical name is. All suggestions will be appreciated. Thank you.
|
01-25-2010, 11:25 AM | #2 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Posts: 4,583
Thanks: 958
Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts
|
If you have removed the steel spring, you probably dont have it completly down in the frame, this spring bends going in and must be seated all the way down. If the tip of the locking bolt goes into the left side of the frame the locking bolt spring is seated deep enough. Then you must get the tip of the locking bolt down far enough to push it through the last little bit on the right side of the frame. SOMETIMES this requires using a non marring tool to push down on top of the tip inside the frame as you push the locking bolt to the right. Sometimes I will use my thumb, or a dowel or a fat punch pin with a soft cloth over the end to push it down. Also remember to cushion the bottom of the frame so you dont mar the bluing. Becareful taking out the small spring, it is easy to break coming out if it sticks anywhere or tapping back down in the frame.
__________________
Thor's Luger Clinic http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/ Ted Green (Thor Yaller Boots) 725 Western Hills Dr SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124 915-526-8925 Email thor340@aol.com ----------------------------------- John3:3 Jesus answered and said to him, "Most assuredly, I say to you, unless one is born again, he cannot see the kingdom of God." |
01-25-2010, 11:56 AM | #3 |
User
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Norway
Posts: 288
Thanks: 20
Thanked 34 Times in 19 Posts
|
|
01-25-2010, 01:44 PM | #4 |
Patron
LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 978
Thanks: 68
Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts
|
Recently had a similar experience. I found that the rt. end of the spring was not seated in the little groove. Using a bamboo chopstick, I was able to reseat it, then everything fell into place.
Interestingly this was on a 1938 S/42 also. FN |
The following member says Thank You to FNorm for your post: |
01-25-2010, 01:52 PM | #5 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
Posts: 4,583
Thanks: 958
Thanked 970 Times in 276 Posts
|
A lot of times the right end wont STAY down in the bottom of the groove because of its springyness but the take down is used to force it down and keep it there after it is installed.
__________________
Thor's Luger Clinic http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/ Ted Green (Thor Yaller Boots) 725 Western Hills Dr SE, Rio Rancho, NM 87124 915-526-8925 Email thor340@aol.com ----------------------------------- John3:3 Jesus answered and said to him, "Most assuredly, I say to you, unless one is born again, he cannot see the kingdom of God." |
01-26-2010, 09:58 PM | #6 |
New User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 3
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Locking Bolt Spring - Locking Bolt
I've tried a plastic chop stick and it broke bit by bit. Then I tried a dowel rod without success. I've used a loupe to view the locking bolt spring and it looks okay. I might need a reliable gunsmith in the Atlanta, Georgia area, one with experience with ample Lugers. Any recommendations from anyone here?
|
|
|