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#1 |
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I got a new luger last weekend, a BYF 41 with a very good condition receiver with all parts matching. The frame and grips have a good amount of pitting but have been re-blued, and while the same number is stamped on the frame, the original number on the frame is stamped out with big XXX marks. I don't know whether the frame was replaced during wartime or someone found another one within the last 80 years and replaced it. I paid around $850 for it which I thought was a good deal.
I'd like to get another frame for it to match the receiver in terms of quality and looks. Any idea of the price range of just a frame? I can't find any of them online. I'd trade someone if it's possible, but I'd like to keep this one for a backup. Also there is no import markings on any part of the gun. The pitting is deep enough that I might lose the lettering if I were to sand it and redo it, and I'd rather just keep it as it was. Any ideas? |
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#2 |
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Welcome to the forum. While restoration is an expensive potential option, finding a replacement frame may be the way to go - but - realize that in either the case you keep the original frame or replace it it won't become collectible.
It may be possible to guess on when the frame was replaced if we can get a look, but it's likely it was an armory replacement either during the war, or as part of a Russian Capture / East German rework effort. Most others would not bother to "X" out things. If it's mechanically functional, I'd leave it as is. These are hand fit firearms, and it will take some work to properly fit a replacement frame, side plate, firing pin etc...
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#3 | ||
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I was worried that might be the case, I guess at the very least the gun has some history behind it. |
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#4 |
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Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
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You can find frames every now and then, a friend got a collection and I bought several frames form him. They seem to come along on the forums infrequently, but a bit more often on gunbroker. A frame by itself has to go to a FFL 01 (dealer).
AND, the number would never be the same plus to get period correct you'd need a mauser hump style frame, most do not have the hump (yrs prior to whatever year it is - see FAQ). And keeping a frame as a spare - I have never broken a frame ![]() Ed
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#5 |
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The tightness of the sideplate seems to vary between Lugers. My shooter only has a mismatched toggle but it has an extremely tight sideplate-takedown lever engagement. The other one I have, a DWM inter-war commercial, has an easy to manipulate engagement. As said, they’re hand fit guns and each one is different.
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You need to fit the side plate to the frame and to clear the take down lever.
Changing the frame won't cure that problem. The side plate has to fit the curve of the frame, the tang of the side plate has to be the correct thickness to clear the take down lever, and the semi-circular cut in the front of the side plate tang is cammed rearward to the frame by the take down lever, and must also be fit to get the takedown lever to close firmly but with thumb pressure. You can expect to pay $250 to $350 for a frame, if you can find one that suits you. I may have a Mauser frame that would suit. Post pictures of the condition of your frame/pistol.
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03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie |
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#7 | |
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#8 |
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That's the kind of corrosion typical of storing a Luger in a holster in a humid environment.
Do you draw back the toggles / receiver slightly before trying to disengage the take down bolt's lever? The receiver/cannon has to be pulled back first. Try and determine where the take down lever / side plate has excessive friction. There is also a small retention spring just below the takedown bolt that might be incorrectly installed (it has a small curve milled out of it to allow the takedown lever to function). Marc
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#9 |
Lifer - Twice Over
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Alex,
It looks like there is a two-line import stamp on the side of the frame, and the pitting is on top of that. I think it is a Century Arms stamp, looks like LUGER PARABELLUM GERMANY / CAI ST. ALB VT. Also, I don't see the Mauser hump. I do see what looks like a proof mark on the front of the trigger guard, suggesting it may be a pre-WWII Erfurt frame. KFS |
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#10 |
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The top line reads Luger P#####M (Parabellum?) Germany.
Bottom line is C.A. ##%#%# L(?) B(?) V.T. The periods on the bottom may also just be from the pitting.
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#11 |
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That is not a Mauser frame, but as Karl hints- it is an Erfurt frame.
The import marking is the typical Century Arms International of St. Albans, VT.
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03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie |
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#12 | |
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Also yes, I have done a proper disassembly of the gun and compared mine to videos, this is where I was confused how they were moving the lever with their thumb like it was nothing. So if I am to understand correctly, this is a Mauser receiver with an Erfurt frame? Does that increase my chances of finding a frame in better condition? Does this also mean that Erfurt frames and Mauser Receivers are compatible? |
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#13 |
Lifer - Twice Over
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Alex,
In general lugers are remarkably interchangeable but they also were also built to close tolerances and required hand fitting to function well. Your mismatched gun is apparently one that was reworked by a Russian or East German armorer and may function well despite the mixed parts. In my opinion, if it works well enjoy it as is. It is a shooter: replacing the frame will not make it into a collector grade Luger and it just might cause problems with proper functioning. I suggest that you shoot and learn from this Luger and save the money you might spend on a replacement frame as a down payment on your next Luger. KFS |
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Tags |
byf 41, frame, parts |
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