1912 dwm p-08

[uhlster]

Since there are not a whole many 1912s out there (10k?), figured I'd share a new acquire!
Condition isn't the best in the light, but it is all matching and seriously has the tightest tolerances I've came across thus far. At night... who cares, she looks much better
I for one am a fan of the feel and curve of these pre-1914s.
Sharing the proofs too; only 3 at this period of assembly. Hold open installed I guess in 1913 has the small proof too (looks like a crowned "P'?). No import marks.
Put on some repo grips and a MecGar for the range. No failures with a variety of ammo.
One question for the crowd- besides the usual oil wipedown and cleaning, does one attempt anything more invasive on severe holster-rash/pitting such as this (around the distal cannon)?
Enjoy:

[Norme]

Hi Steven,
It looks like a nice gun, probably too nice to shoot. It's easy to tell that it's finish is original, the right side end of the hold-open pin is "in the white". I see no active rust in your excellent photos, if you must shoot the gun be sure you wipe it down with a rust preventative, I use silicone impregnated cloths.
Norm

[foxdoublegunner]

Uhlster,
Your new acquisition doesn’t look bad at all. How is the bore? The Erfurt 1913 that I acquired earlier this year also exhibits some holster wear and minor pitting similar to yours but perhaps a bit stronger “straw”. I used 0000 bronze wool impregnated with CLP with good results and took it to the range with a new Mecgar magazine. I shot two magazines worth of ammo without a single failure to fire and she held a good, tight group. That is probably the last time that I will take her to the range as she has all matching numbers. Congrats on your new pistol.

Ricardo

[uhlster]

Thank you both for the compliments and info.
I'll look into getting some silicone cloths. I've just been using paper towels with rem-oil.
The bore has rifling but is frosted. Not sure the condition as I have only new guns to compare it against. I'll snap a pic soon.
When shooting with 124 gr. AE FMJ, it had tight groups as yours did.
Question about the bronze wool- was that to remove spotting on the blue, or for the strawed small parts to clean up? Does it remove blueing if you are too rough with it?
I've seen others re-staw the small parts. Not sure if I will though.

[DonVoigt]

Re-strawed parts would look very strange and out of place on a luger with that degree of wear and
finish loss.

If you rub on the finish with anything long enough it will remove the bluing; the key is
use minimal force to remove any active rust and stop.

[HerrKaiser]

On my C&R weapons i have a stiff Nylon (or something else similar that isn’t brass or metallic) brush that I use to remove any spot rust. It seems much easier on the Finish when I need to use it, but doesn’t get rust off as easily.

[meadowlark]

Uhlster - The grips shown in pics 5 & 7 look like they have been really cleaned to the point where they looked bleached out. Is this the condition you were striving for or just a case of maybe over cleaning. The reason I'm asking is this: does over cleaning affect the value of your collectable?

[mrerick]

I don't like spraying silicone directly on the surface of firearms because once it bonds, it is impossible to remove. The cloths are good as a finishing wipe because they are hydrophobic, but they are not for cleaning, and especially cleaning forming rust.

First, carefully remove the grips.

Used gently, and not rubbing so as to abrade the blued surface, I believe that the best way to stabilize a blued gun that has started showing pitting and rust accumulation is to oil the gun surface really well (soaking it) and then use a well oiled steel or bronze wool "0000" fine to slowly and gently remove the active iron oxide rust. After that, a good cleaning and final spray with preserving gun oil (I use "RemOil") and a wipe down to remove fingerprints.

Don't store it in the holster.

[uhlster]

Don- I won't be re-strawing anything. I agree.
Meadowlark- Those pics just are of the reproduction grips. I actually took those off as they were uncomfortable and was given some plastic ones from a forum member. They actually make the pistol look WW2-ish..
Is the spotting on the blue considered "active rust"? If I use a flash photo up close, it does look like rust-colored areas.
I have some nylon brushes. Also some brass brushes. I'm hesitant to take brass to it unless that is recommended, which it sounds the case. I've disassembled the whole pistol and wiped pretty good with RemOil/Hobbes 9; the gun was very dirty. Rusty colored stuff came off in a lot of places aided by q-tips. A lot of the interior steel is very clear though.
So it sounds like taking well oiled bronze wool "0000" slowly to the finish could help. Or I could just leave oiled... and as-is? I handle it often but always wipe it down after, usually with oiled paper towels.
I don't have a holster to store it in. Wouldn't do that anyway. Stays in a pelican-style case, foam cut.
As always, thanks for the feedback.

[DonVoigt]

Sorry,
but a Pelican case and foam are also "bad" for storage, IMO.
No air gets in or out, so if you close it with humidity inside it stays; foam will deteriorate.

Best stored in a climate controlled area, in or out of a sock or other "breathable" cover to prevent
dings- it that is a problem. I store mine in a safe with dividers and keep the temperature constant and the humidity low.

[foxdoublegunner]

Uhlster,
The original grips don't look too bad, in fact I prefer them to the repro grips that you showed previously. Bronze wool impregnated with CLP applied with a light hand will clean the pistol up, but if the finish is damaged, the evidence will remain. You want to get rid of the active rust without removing the remaining bluing. I didn't have much luck using nylon brushes except on the strawed parts. Do not expect miracles but I found that the light, careful application of bronze wool did improve the appearance of the pistol. It sounds as if your pistol and mine were in much the same condition but mine had a bit more pitting and loss of finish, particularly on the left hand side. The frame under the grips of my pistol as well as the pistol interior wasn't nearly as bad as I thought might be the case so those areas cleaned up well. Looks like you have strong "lands" in the bore although you do have some pitting. You have a good, honest pistol that would have some interesting stories to tell. You take very nice fotos by the way.

Regards,
Ricardo

[uhlster]

Don- I understand and agree. It is only in one temporarily until my safe cleans up to add this one to the collection.
Fox- the originals will stay off and in a safe/separate place, as I handle the gun often, and don't want to damage in any way the old wood. Thank you for insight into the rust removal procedure. Besides the light areas of surface rust, I recently noticed quite a bit inside of the trigger guard. I will do this procedure and report back with before/after photos.
It is unfortunate how expensive these pistols have became in the past 10 years. I would love to get my wife a .30 1906, but the prices have climbed so high, its hard to rationalize that much money on another piece...

[HerrKaiser]

Well, if you’re lucky and in the right spot you can sometimes find beater 1920 commercials in .30 Luger for less than $700. If you want a nicer looking one, they seem to top out at only around $1500-$1800 for exceptional condition 1920 commercial “rigs” (if such a term can be used on non-carbine commercial guns).

[uhlster]

Yea I have noticed that about the .30 commercials. The problem is I’d want a good one and they are anywhere from 1.1-1.4k, then part of me is like “save another 1k for the real thing...”
Maybe an American Eagle beater. If I keep looking I know some locals don’t sell for crazy when it’s .30 caliber. I’ll just keep my eyes open. A good number of Swiss have came on the market recently in great condition and better prices than their German wartime counterparts, but still ain’t affordable.

[Doubs]

uhlster, if you use JB Bore Cleaner or JB Bore Bright on that Luger, you will bring the bore to the best condition possible. Bore Bright is an extremely fine polish and used according to directions will clean a bore as well as anything I've used. The Bore Cleaner is less aggressive but also very good.

[uhlster]

Thanks Doubs. I'll add it to the list of treatment in the near term!

[Sergio Natali]

Originally Posted by mrerick

I don't like spraying silicone directly on the surface of firearms because once it bonds, it is impossible to remove. The cloths are good as a finishing wipe because they are hydrophobic, but they are not for cleaning, and especially cleaning forming rust.

First, carefully remove the grips.

Used gently, and not rubbing so as to abrade the blued surface, I believe that the best way to stabilize a blued gun that has started showing pitting and rust accumulation is to oil the gun surface really well (soaking it) and then use a well oiled steel or bronze wool "0000" fine to slowly and gently remove the active iron oxide rust. After that, a good cleaning and final spray with preserving gun oil (I use "RemOil") and a wipe down to remove fingerprints.

Don't store it in the holster.

uhlster

I agree completely with the above, only one recommendation, use plenty of oil is you decide to use some bronze 0000 whool !