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Unread 02-03-2011, 11:54 AM   #21
aptech77
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Do you think it will work on this..?

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=214479006
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Unread 02-03-2011, 02:45 PM   #22
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LOL... No.
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Unread 02-03-2011, 05:30 PM   #23
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another vid on the same subject <click
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Unread 12-04-2011, 07:21 AM   #24
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John: I did a quick test on the electrolytic method on an S/42 frame and the cylinder of a S&W Model 19. I didnt notice any effect on the caustic bluing, but the bare metal did appear a little brighter. I didnt pursue the experiment for very long because I was trying to remove the bluing. If I refinish a rust blued pistol, I'll let you know what happens.
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Unread 06-24-2017, 01:46 PM   #25
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Default How to Copper Plate Your Luger

I tried the rust removal technique on what I believe were a couple salt-blued parts and got results that were ah interesting on the first try and excellent on the second.

I have a shooter with a blued s-link and decided to remove the blue with the electrical method of this thread. I followed the instructions, including using steel (a screw) for the positive connection. After 5 minutes in the bath, I inspected the part and the blue seemed to be coming off.

To complete the process and improve matters, rather than use a steel screw I decided to use about 2" of copper wire, as we all know that copper is a good conductor. I substituted the copper for the steel screw and let the process go for about 15 minutes.

Before and after pictures below.
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Unread 06-24-2017, 01:52 PM   #26
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It was not my intent to copper plate anything so I was quite astounded to discover the plated the s-link. Fortunately the copper was quite thin and easily removed via 220 grit sandpaper. It appears the blue was replaced by a very thin layer of copper. The part looks ok after sanding off the copper to the bare metal. As it goes into a shooter, no harm done.

Having learned my lesson, I repeated the process with a trigger bar on a different shooter. Being careful to use steel for the positive connection. After about 30 minutes I was pleased with the result.

So I conclude the process does remove blue, and that you should use steel not copper for the positive connection. While I am not a chemist (obviously), I've read that both rust blue and hot blue techniques create the same surface coating on the metal; therefore I would expect this technique to remove both types of bluing.
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