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Unread 05-19-2006, 04:32 AM   #1
Fabian23
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Default Decocking or Dry Firing...

Is there a way to decock the striker on a Luger?

Like most people, I like to check the action works when reassembling a firearm, but I also heard that dry firing a Luger is best not done too often. Is this a myth?

I guess I can always use a dummy round anyway if I wish to have a play.
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Unread 05-19-2006, 09:43 AM   #2
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Hey Fabian,

Sounds like you have the same basic questions as I. Fortunately we have both come to the right place for answers. There is so much collective knowledge here that all I can tell you is read as much of it sa you have time for. here is an exerpt from a recent excange I had with one of the best.

I asked-
How do I release a cocked empty Luger to avoid dry-firing? Can or should it be un-cocked while 'geladen'?

Dwight Gruber replied-
'A Luger should never be de-cocked with a round in the chamber!!

With the gun safely unloaded, pull back the toggle and slowly let it come back to battery. At some point, roughly 1/4 inch from closure, you will feel a 'catch' or an increase in resistance as the sear engages the striker and holds it in position to be cocked. At this point depress the trigger; the sear will come out of engagement and the firing pin will continue forward with the breechblock. The technique is a bit of a trick; the exact point, amount of resistance, and amount of trigger pull necessary varies a bit from gun to gun. Once you get the hang of it, it will become second nature.

The breechblock continues forward with the firing-pin tip protruding through the breech face; if there is a cartridge in the chamber it can be touched off.'

I asked-
What is the nature of the risk of breaking the striker when dry-firing? Is it similar to racing an engine in neutral, i.e. it needs a load to push against?

Dwight replied-
'The short answer is, yes. Dry-firing is a solid metal-to-metal contact of the striker with the breechblock, a particularly egregious battering of two metal parts. Your Luger is more than 85 years old, much closer to the end of its operational lifetime than the beginnig. A broken numbered part will reduce the value of your Luger substantially.'

These guys may not necessarily agree on everything but you can tell what they say is well researched and based on years of experience. IMHO

Russell
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Unread 05-19-2006, 10:05 AM   #3
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Thanks Parabellus,

That was exactly what I needed.

When I dismantled my Luger I could see that the possibilty for decocking was there, I just couldn't figure out at what point of the breechblock's travel it could be done.
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Unread 06-27-2006, 06:03 PM   #4
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What a truly excellent knowledge base this website contains! I've lost count now of how many times I've been able to do a search and find exactly the information for which I'm looking. Typed "dry firing" in a search of Shooting and Reloading and this web page was at the top of the results.

On the byf 42 I have here, this technique for de-cocking a Luger worked on the very first try. I could easily feel the spot were the tension changed at about 1/4 of an inch before closer.

Thank you everyone!
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Unread 06-28-2006, 05:56 PM   #5
John Sabato
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TAC, as you have requested this oft asked question and answer is now STUCK to the top of this discussion forum...

Now I have a request,

Fabian, would you please modify or replace your avatar with one that is similar in size to TAC so that the frame for you posts is similar to all others. Thanks.

JS
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Unread 10-17-2014, 05:22 PM   #6
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Is dry firing with a dummy round/snap cap intended to cushion the striker´s fall in any way harmful?

Hermann
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