Cracked wood bottom mag question?

waltherguy · 10-10-2006, 09:18 PM

Have a very nice wood bottom mag. Serial # 8523 i . Metal is near mint, but somehow cracked the wood on the old girl, and was wondering what is the best thing to use to repair the crack? Wood Glue? Any other suggestions?

Thanks all!
Reggie

Pete Ebbink · 10-10-2006, 09:20 PM

I have use exterior Elmer's wood glue (yellow color, not white...) and then I jam tooth-picks or small nails (or thin shim stock) in between the wood edges and the inside of the metal tube to help push the repair/crack tight together while the glue sets up. Let that go for 24 hours.

Try to work glue deep into the crack with a small tool of some sort as well before you "clamp" the repair together...there by trying to get glue down into the crack as much as you can.

Use a damp rag to wipe any excessive glue away before the glue sets up.

lugerholsterrepair · 10-10-2006, 10:18 PM

I would consider Pete's advice sound except for the glue..You might consider a glue called Gorrilla glue. It's available at most hardware stores, expensive though...The trouble with these is oil penetration. Most wood bottoms have had some exposure to oil at one time and this makes them poor candidates for any type of glue.
Perhaps Hugh Clark has a sure fire method? Hugh?
Jerry Burney

Pete Ebbink · 10-10-2006, 11:19 PM

http://www.acohardware.com/670.html

waltherguy · 10-10-2006, 11:28 PM

Thanks so much guys! Look forward to hearing more feedback.

Edward Tinker · 10-11-2006, 07:23 AM

I have had Gorrilla Glue expand upon drying, so use a tiny bit and clean any excess immediately... I actually quit using it, because it was such a pain, although it works very well. I usually use Elmers wood glue when I am restoring funiture.

Ed

Lugerdoc · 10-11-2006, 08:47 AM

First, You are wasting your time unless you remove the bottom from the mag and lightly sand the surfaces to be glued. Then I apply a light coating of crazy glue JEL t both surfaces, clam pieces together overnight, before reinstalling the bottom. TH

Hugh · 10-11-2006, 09:36 AM

I agree with Ed & Lugerdoc. However, if you are afraid of removing the bottom, then squeeze some regular super glue into the crack and use Pete's method to squeeze the two pieces together. Actually, the oil in old wooden grips & stocks is usually Linseed oil, which is a "kicker" for super glue and makes it set up faster.

An interesting experiment: Take some sawdust from old oil soaked wood (like when checkering Luger grips!) and make a little pile, then drop some super glue on it. It will instantly set up and get so hot that you can actually see smoke rising from the pile!

lugerholsterrepair · 10-11-2006, 10:25 AM

Hugh, That's good to know! Most US superglues are about 10% superglue. I get some stuff out of Germany that is more along the line of 80% and the difference is amazing. I also use a catalyst before I glue oil soaked leather. I had never been able to glue leather before finding this stuff.
I agree with Tom, best to remove the plug and work on it. Working it in the mag is sure to lead to a poor fit.
Jerry Burney

the gunman · 10-11-2006, 10:31 AM

I to have had problems like Ed with the gorrilla glue. If used make sure any excess cleaned off good as when it dries one hell of a mess is left. Like Ed said it expands quite a bit as well.

lugerholsterrepair · 10-11-2006, 12:46 PM

I have to admit I have never used the stuff...It's touted as the World's strongest glue but I am glad to know of it's poor charecteristics.
Good thing about the Forum, alway's someone out there with experience!
Thanks, Jerry Burney

Pete Ebbink · 10-11-2006, 01:18 PM

The yellow Elmer's wood glue is really great.

I use it when assembling Japanese shoji screens.

If you try to pull the joint apart after it cures with time, you usually splinter the wood grain near the joint but the glued joint just not come apart.

I usually will not try to take the wooden bottom out of the tube...especially if it is a "virgin" magazine and never has had its retainer pin removed before.

When buying magazines, I will usually look for evidence of such pin removal and will not buy it.

Guys here on the Forum are probably experts and can do so without such evidence...I cannot...so I use the "glue in place" repair with a cracked bottom.

waltherguy · 10-11-2006, 03:29 PM

Thanks for all the advice guys! Me and super glue don't get along very well! (Long story) Think I'll try the yellow Elmers glue.

Thanks again!
RG

Edward Tinker · 10-11-2006, 06:26 PM

On the other hand, when we lived in Palouse, I made some shelves and a display case, all out of solid oak, used Gorilla glue and screws. I wanted it solid enough that if my sisters kids came over, they could climb them. I hope the new owners never try to remove them, they'll have to take the wall down...

ed

Dok · 10-13-2006, 10:29 AM

I also agree with Ed. Gorilla glue is a fantasticly strong glue, but it sticks to everything, including your fingers, and cleanup is a pain. When it expands it turns a creamy white colour, and even if you wipe away the excess, the line will be visible on the mag bottom. I use this glue sparingly in the construction of my cases, and certainly not anywhere I don't want the glue line to show. I use Titebond (similar to Elmers) Yellow wood glue for most joins, it dries darker and the seam is less visible.

Dok

10-10-2006, 09:18 PM	#1
waltherguy User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: FL Posts: 201 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Cracked wood bottom mag question? Have a very nice wood bottom mag. Serial # 8523 i . Metal is near mint, but somehow cracked the wood on the old girl, and was wondering what is the best thing to use to repair the crack? Wood Glue? Any other suggestions? Thanks all! Reggie __________________ "In a man to man fight the winner is the one who puts an extra round in his magazine" -Field Marshal Erwin Rommel

10-10-2006, 10:18 PM	#3
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,760 Thanks: 4,850 Thanked 3,100 Times in 1,426 Posts	I would consider Pete's advice sound except for the glue..You might consider a glue called Gorrilla glue. It's available at most hardware stores, expensive though...The trouble with these is oil penetration. Most wood bottoms have had some exposure to oil at one time and this makes them poor candidates for any type of glue. Perhaps Hugh Clark has a sure fire method? Hugh? Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

10-10-2006, 11:28 PM	#5
waltherguy User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: FL Posts: 201 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks so much guys! Look forward to hearing more feedback. __________________ "In a man to man fight the winner is the one who puts an extra round in his magazine" -Field Marshal Erwin Rommel

10-11-2006, 07:23 AM	#6
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,911 Thanks: 1,986 Thanked 4,502 Times in 2,077 Posts	I have had Gorrilla Glue expand upon drying, so use a tiny bit and clean any excess immediately... I actually quit using it, because it was such a pain, although it works very well. I usually use Elmers wood glue when I am restoring funiture. Ed __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

10-11-2006, 08:47 AM	#7
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	First, You are wasting your time unless you remove the bottom from the mag and lightly sand the surfaces to be glued. Then I apply a light coating of crazy glue JEL t both surfaces, clam pieces together overnight, before reinstalling the bottom. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

10-10-2006, 09:20 PM	#2
Pete Ebbink User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The USA Posts: 5,919 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts	I have use exterior Elmer's wood glue (yellow color, not white...) and then I jam tooth-picks or small nails (or thin shim stock) in between the wood edges and the inside of the metal tube to help push the repair/crack tight together while the glue sets up. Let that go for 24 hours. Try to work glue deep into the crack with a small tool of some sort as well before you "clamp" the repair together...there by trying to get glue down into the crack as much as you can. Use a damp rag to wipe any excessive glue away before the glue sets up.

10-10-2006, 11:19 PM	#4
Pete Ebbink User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The USA Posts: 5,919 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts	http://www.acohardware.com/670.html

10-11-2006, 09:36 AM	#8
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 165 Times in 64 Posts	I agree with Ed & Lugerdoc. However, if you are afraid of removing the bottom, then squeeze some regular super glue into the crack and use Pete's method to squeeze the two pieces together. Actually, the oil in old wooden grips & stocks is usually Linseed oil, which is a "kicker" for super glue and makes it set up faster. An interesting experiment: Take some sawdust from old oil soaked wood (like when checkering Luger grips!) and make a little pile, then drop some super glue on it. It will instantly set up and get so hot that you can actually see smoke rising from the pile! __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

10-11-2006, 10:25 AM	#9
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,760 Thanks: 4,850 Thanked 3,100 Times in 1,426 Posts	Hugh, That's good to know! Most US superglues are about 10% superglue. I get some stuff out of Germany that is more along the line of 80% and the difference is amazing. I also use a catalyst before I glue oil soaked leather. I had never been able to glue leather before finding this stuff. I agree with Tom, best to remove the plug and work on it. Working it in the mag is sure to lead to a poor fit. Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

10-11-2006, 10:31 AM	#10
the gunman User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Leland NC 28451 Posts: 1,017 Thanks: 1 Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts	I to have had problems like Ed with the gorrilla glue. If used make sure any excess cleaned off good as when it dries one hell of a mess is left. Like Ed said it expands quite a bit as well.

10-11-2006, 12:46 PM	#11
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,760 Thanks: 4,850 Thanked 3,100 Times in 1,426 Posts	I have to admit I have never used the stuff...It's touted as the World's strongest glue but I am glad to know of it's poor charecteristics. Good thing about the Forum, alway's someone out there with experience! Thanks, Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 lugerholsterrepair@earthlink.net 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

10-11-2006, 01:18 PM	#12
Pete Ebbink User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The USA Posts: 5,919 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts	The yellow Elmer's wood glue is really great. I use it when assembling Japanese shoji screens. If you try to pull the joint apart after it cures with time, you usually splinter the wood grain near the joint but the glued joint just not come apart. I usually will not try to take the wooden bottom out of the tube...especially if it is a "virgin" magazine and never has had its retainer pin removed before. When buying magazines, I will usually look for evidence of such pin removal and will not buy it. Guys here on the Forum are probably experts and can do so without such evidence...I cannot...so I use the "glue in place" repair with a cracked bottom.

10-11-2006, 03:29 PM	#13
waltherguy User Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: FL Posts: 201 Thanks: 5 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for all the advice guys! Me and super glue don't get along very well! (Long story) Think I'll try the yellow Elmers glue. Thanks again! RG __________________ "In a man to man fight the winner is the one who puts an extra round in his magazine" -Field Marshal Erwin Rommel

10-11-2006, 06:26 PM	#14
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,911 Thanks: 1,986 Thanked 4,502 Times in 2,077 Posts	On the other hand, when we lived in Palouse, I made some shelves and a display case, all out of solid oak, used Gorilla glue and screws. I wanted it solid enough that if my sisters kids came over, they could climb them. I hope the new owners never try to remove them, they'll have to take the wall down... ed __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

10-13-2006, 10:29 AM	#15
Dok RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Bermuda (Eat Your Heart Out) Posts: 1,626 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	I also agree with Ed. Gorilla glue is a fantasticly strong glue, but it sticks to everything, including your fingers, and cleanup is a pain. When it expands it turns a creamy white colour, and even if you wipe away the excess, the line will be visible on the mag bottom. I use this glue sparingly in the construction of my cases, and certainly not anywhere I don't want the glue line to show. I use Titebond (similar to Elmers) Yellow wood glue for most joins, it dries darker and the seam is less visible. Dok __________________ You can never be too rich; too thin; or too well armed! http://www.centercustomcases.com/