Cleaning up a 1920 commercial

drbuster · 10-07-2003, 11:26 PM

I have a cruddy 1920 commercial that would clean up a great deal if I had a way to non-corrosively remove the blackened discoloration on the strawed parts, especially the safety and take-down levers. I don't want to buff these parts for fear of rounding edges. Does anyone know a chemical method to remove this crud (oxidation) so I could re-straw these parts?

policeluger · 10-07-2003, 11:45 PM

I am really not sure what you are up aginist here, would a small Dremel tool wire brush work, or something like 600 grit sandpaper and light hand work?

drbuster · 10-07-2003, 11:57 PM

Thanks, Howard, that would probably work. The black color, I think, comes from years of handling and is not rust. In fact you can see a little of the straw on the take down lever near the knurled nod. Would simple metal polish work?

PACKET · 10-08-2003, 08:32 AM

Anything that will remove the black will probably remove the straw as well. The good news is, if there is no pitting, a cleaning with a wire wheel will do if you want to restraw.

John D. · 10-08-2003, 08:58 AM

Hi Doc,

I think Howard probably has the right answer, depending on the amount of "crud" you need to remove. In the meantime, you might try something like "Flitz" on a small area, and see if that works? It may be less drastic, and it may not work at all - but I'm not sure how much "crud" you need to remove, either.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

policeluger · 10-08-2003, 09:48 AM

I have never tried metal polish, but just be sure too clean the metal of all oils prior too the oven, and what is "flitz"?...I have never heard of this, thanks

John D. · 10-08-2003, 10:04 AM

Hi Howard,

Flitz is a poishing/cleaner paste - and in fact, is pretty good. It won't attack factory blue (use it gently, though)- but it sure can remove "cold blue" touch-ups which have been previously applied. I actually used the stuff on a shooter Luger - where some idiot had used black permanent magic marker to try to "enhance" the appearance of his "Looger"

Best to you..!

- John

Lugerdoc · 10-08-2003, 10:21 AM

Dr.Herb, It's possible that a metal polish and dremil polishing will remove "the crud", but this patina, is actually microscopic pitting, so since it is only on the surface, it can be polished off. If you don't want to deform the contours of these parts, I suggest that you have Thor do it for you, as this is his area of expertise. Tom

John Sabato · 10-08-2003, 10:35 AM

I recommend that you also try a metal polish (or even a good toothpaste) and a toothbrush... see how that works since it won't remove any metal... Thoroughly clean all parts of any substance that you use in the cleaning effort and lubricate before putting the gun in storage...

Luke · 10-08-2003, 10:42 AM

Second Tom's (Lugerdoc) suggestion. Thor just cleaned up a 1920 commercial trigger for me. It had been improperly brushed by someone in the distant past, and the edges on the right were rounded a little from the buffing. Ted was still able to restore it to its original appearance, and it looks great now.

Good luck with it, and let us know how it turns out.

Regards,
Luke

10-07-2003, 11:26 PM	#1
drbuster User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: San Mateo, California Posts: 1,432 Thanks: 2 Thanked 71 Times in 56 Posts	Cleaning up a 1920 commercial I have a cruddy 1920 commercial that would clean up a great deal if I had a way to non-corrosively remove the blackened discoloration on the strawed parts, especially the safety and take-down levers. I don't want to buff these parts for fear of rounding edges. Does anyone know a chemical method to remove this crud (oxidation) so I could re-straw these parts?

10-08-2003, 10:21 AM	#8
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	Dr.Herb, It's possible that a metal polish and dremil polishing will remove "the crud", but this patina, is actually microscopic pitting, so since it is only on the surface, it can be polished off. If you don't want to deform the contours of these parts, I suggest that you have Thor do it for you, as this is his area of expertise. Tom __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 lugerdoc@charter.net

10-08-2003, 10:35 AM	#9
John Sabato Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: The Capital of the Free World Posts: 10,150 Thanks: 3,003 Thanked 2,304 Times in 1,096 Posts	I recommend that you also try a metal polish (or even a good toothpaste) and a toothbrush... see how that works since it won't remove any metal... Thoroughly clean all parts of any substance that you use in the cleaning effort and lubricate before putting the gun in storage... __________________ regards, -John S "...We hold these truths to be self-evident that ALL men are created EQUAL *and are endowed by their Creator* with certain UNALIENABLE* rights, and among these are life, LIBERTY, and the pursuit of happiness..."*

10-08-2003, 10:42 AM	#10
Luke User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: NC - USA Posts: 1,239 Thanks: 0 Thanked 18 Times in 6 Posts	Second Tom's (Lugerdoc) suggestion. Thor just cleaned up a 1920 commercial trigger for me. It had been improperly brushed by someone in the distant past, and the edges on the right were rounded a little from the buffing. Ted was still able to restore it to its original appearance, and it looks great now. Good luck with it, and let us know how it turns out. Regards, Luke __________________ "Peace, if possible; truth, at any cost." . . . Martin Luther

10-07-2003, 11:45 PM	#2
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	I am really not sure what you are up aginist here, would a small Dremel tool wire brush work, or something like 600 grit sandpaper and light hand work?

10-07-2003, 11:57 PM	#3
drbuster User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: San Mateo, California Posts: 1,432 Thanks: 2 Thanked 71 Times in 56 Posts	Thanks, Howard, that would probably work. The black color, I think, comes from years of handling and is not rust. In fact you can see a little of the straw on the take down lever near the knurled nod. Would simple metal polish work?

10-08-2003, 08:32 AM	#4
PACKET User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: FL. Posts: 68 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Anything that will remove the black will probably remove the straw as well. The good news is, if there is no pitting, a cleaning with a wire wheel will do if you want to restraw.

10-08-2003, 08:58 AM	#5
John D. Administrator & Site Owner LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: A Little NE of Somewhere... Posts: 2,651 Thanks: 471 Thanked 513 Times in 127 Posts	Hi Doc, I think Howard probably has the right answer, depending on the amount of "crud" you need to remove. In the meantime, you might try something like "Flitz" on a small area, and see if that works? It may be less drastic, and it may not work at all - but I'm not sure how much "crud" you need to remove, either.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

10-08-2003, 09:48 AM	#6
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	I have never tried metal polish, but just be sure too clean the metal of all oils prior too the oven, and what is "flitz"?...I have never heard of this, thanks

10-08-2003, 10:04 AM	#7
John D. Administrator & Site Owner LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: A Little NE of Somewhere... Posts: 2,651 Thanks: 471 Thanked 513 Times in 127 Posts	Hi Howard, Flitz is a poishing/cleaner paste - and in fact, is pretty good. It won't attack factory blue (use it gently, though)- but it sure can remove "cold blue" touch-ups which have been previously applied. I actually used the stuff on a shooter Luger - where some idiot had used black permanent magic marker to try to "enhance" the appearance of his "Looger" Best to you..! - John