Luger Lubrication - Page 3

Margana · 12-09-2008, 01:50 AM

One final note: You might consider storing your guns in a gun "sock" or "sack". Midway USA has a good price on these gun sacks. These look like large stockings which have silicone lubricant in them. They are priced well (about US$15 for 5 gun sacks. These seem to give an additional degree of protection. Surprisingly, the rifle sized sacks are about the same price! I keep my guns in a safes that are in the crawl space of my house (the "crawl space" is actually large enough you can stand upright). SO far, I have not had any rust issues.....

Sieger · 12-09-2008, 03:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Virginian

BTW, do you have any other loads with different powders that have similar results?

Hi:

The two best powders for me have been:

Power Pistol
SR4756

You can get these two powders from Graffs, Midway, etc.

Using the method I sent you in the PM, start your work with these.

Unfortunately, my loading data for these are out of state and I have no current access, but these are "the two" you will like, believe you me!!!

Sieger

The Virginian · 12-09-2008, 11:58 AM

Hey, no problem I trust your judgement since we are dealing with finiky Lugers and if one load works in one it mostlikely will in another.

Rich Moran · 04-18-2009, 06:34 AM

FYI: CorrosionX is produced by a gentleman known as Mr. VanGilder. He also invented Corrosion Block.

They are both very similar in their make up. Part of the component in the blend is mineral spirits if memory serves me correct.

Because of this, breakdown will occur sooner than a purer refined prodcut that contains no mineral spirits. Mineral spirits can gum on breakdown.

CLP is another that does similar as examples shown to me by military armourers have shown seperation in tropical climate.

WD-40? It is a good inexpensive degreaser and only lasts for a few days at best for any benifit of lube or corrosion prevention.

I have had great success with CarWellCP-90/RustCOP/T-32. With this name they wanted everyone to remember them by having the longest name it seems, but seriously, the name can be any one of the nomeclature these folks put on their labels.

B4 I go further, I sell the stuff, and have used everything out there under the sun and as well. We have sold this stuff in 55 gallon drums to the US Army and anyone else who wants it.

It's on Strykers, HMMV's, at one time 105's and 155's, can't get past the arms manufacturer......since they thought they owned CLP.

Guess what guys, we have that 2 now, under the CORTEC VpCI (Vapor pahse Corrosion Inhibitor designed by the US Navy sometime around 44-45).

BTW, USMC equipment is treated with the product as well.

We have supported the local shooting community in Hawaii for over a decade with excellent results.

Won't post more here at this point as I don't want to be over obtrusive.

If anyone feel like they need some help with corrosion related issues, rust removal without bluing damage and long term storage or recently shoot and requires immediate preservation without cleaning please PM me.

Mod, if there is issue with my thread as it is commercial in nature, please remove it as I understand complications.

In closing, I have only posted once to this forum about an S/42 I had the pleasure of being in company with. It was some time ago so I am not certain if that is around yet or in cyber space.

I've just saw in my sign off that the post has been lost to time. Will look for images and repost for everyones enjoyment.

USMC_Spike · 07-09-2009, 09:31 AM

For standard cleaning I've used WD-40 with good results.

For difficult cleaning, I've tried naptha, but it just doesn't cut it.
I'm talking rough baked on burned up stuff here.

SO

Use Berrymans B12 Chem Tool. Oh yeah, it cleans the crap
out of your weapon.

CAUTION

Don't use it in doors! It has a high concentration of Toluene!
Toluene causes irreversible brain damage, possible coma
and death if inhaled for too long a time.

It happened to a a couple of acquaintance engineers over
at the bat wing company, serious stuff.

LUB-RA-CA-TION

For grease I use Shooters Choice all weather grease, its red.

I also use Tetra Gun, lube. I should have used the grease too but
didn't think about it...so the red grease is it in my Luger. I want to
head on out and go shooting today. I"ll keep ya'll linformed.

Regards,

Spike

Pappy · 07-24-2009, 06:53 PM

Question; What was the lubricant originally specified for the Luger?? Sperm oil..

Anybody have an original owners Manual??

Vlim · 07-25-2009, 06:32 AM

The original lubricant was vaseline. Seriously.

policeluger · 07-25-2009, 09:40 AM

Vaseline in a cold weather enviroment ? really.....

Vlim · 07-25-2009, 12:33 PM

Yes, that was one of the problems

policeluger · 07-25-2009, 01:42 PM

....and the crap that would stick to it.......

Vlim · 07-25-2009, 02:40 PM

Well, it was comparable to the tinned can and can opener issue. First they invented the tinned cans, found that while being a perfectly good food preserving container, opening them was a bit of a challenge. The can opener was invented quite a while afterwards.

The same situation is visible in the modern semi-autos like the Parabellum pistol. The need for a good allround lubricant and preservative came after the introduction of the pistol and the experience that the lubricants around had too many drawbacks.

Michael Zeleny · 08-28-2009, 03:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vlim

The original lubricant was vaseline. Seriously.

Arguably, the original lubricant (and cleaner) was yellow Waffenfett grease issued by the Swiss Army. The high grade of Swiss Luger preservation is attributable to its use. The current Swiss issue, black moly Automatenfett grease is even more effective, if not as aesthetically pleasing.

Vlim · 08-28-2009, 07:50 AM

Michael,

In Switzerland, yes. The original Parabellum manuals mention vaseline as the lubricating material, however.

The high grade of Swiss gun condition is mainly a result of the fact that the Swiss never went to war and that they had regular refurbishing and maintenance schemes.

lboos · 08-28-2009, 06:24 PM

I talked to this one vender who is a reg. at our local gun shows that deal's only with German ww2 hand guns, and has been doing it for many years And his gun's all way's look great, I ask him what does he use, he said three and one oil, and that's all. I don't think i've heard anyone here mention Three and one oil. is it just because it's old? any one here ever use it?

Ron Wood · 08-28-2009, 06:36 PM

3-in-1 is just a lightweight lubricating oil used on everything from sewing machines to fishing reels to squeeky door hinges. It does give a nice sheen to a gun and probably inhibits rust. But it is also slow evaporating which attracts and holds dust, which in turn can hold moisture and/or make the gun nasty to handle after it has been stored for a while. For a gun that is handled and used regularly it probably is a suitable gun oil. Frequent wipe downs will keep a 3-in-1 treated gun looking OK, just keep it off the grips.

lboos · 08-28-2009, 08:39 PM

Ron, I will take your advice, But!...three in one sure smell's a lot better then break free or some of these other super lub's of today. Thanks....lboos.

andwaahs · 05-24-2012, 07:35 AM

Anyone use balistol?

sheepherder · 05-24-2012, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lboos

I don't think i've heard anyone here mention Three and one oil. is it just because it's old? any one here ever use it?

I use 3in1 as a cutting oil; for threading specifically...I also rub it on steel I'm machining, in between operations (which can be several days to months), to inhibit rust...

For shooting, I use LSA (a US military lube [Lubricant, Small Arms]), which was specifically developed for arms with dissimilar metals in contact (M16 --> aluminum & steel)...For storage, I use SAE 10w-30 engine oil...(unused)...Probably not the best, since it has additives, but it's readily available (drug stores, supermarkets, gas stations) while the dedicated gun oils are a half hour's drive away (at $4+ a gallon)...

I think someone already mentioned it, but WD-40 is not a lubricating oil...It's good for quick cleaning of dirty/chippy metal, and I do use it at the range to give my guns a quick clean, but it's not for storage...

...Plus I like the smell...

alanint · 05-24-2012, 08:29 AM

I keep hearing of the use of WD40. As a cleaner/degreaser it is fine. Despite that the "WD" stands for "water displacement" I find that WD40 is a very poor water displacer and should never be used as a rust preventative, lubricant or preservative. The product tries to do too many things at once and none of them particularly well.

sheepherder · 05-24-2012, 08:35 AM

Back in the 70's, when I was an SCCA member and attempting to race my Austin-Healey 100/6, we had a local engineer give a presentation on engine oil (for racing)...One interest thing I still remember was that aviation engine oil was additive-free...because aviation engines were total-loss systems and additives served no purpose...

Doesn't contribute anything useful to this thread, I know...just some of that useless information that is taking up space in my overcrowded memory...

12-09-2008, 11:58 AM	#43
The Virginian User Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Potomac Falls, Virginia USA Posts: 107 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Hey, no problem I trust your judgement since we are dealing with finiky Lugers and if one load works in one it mostlikely will in another. __________________ All my C&R guns are shooters

04-18-2009, 06:34 AM	#44
Rich Moran New User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Hawaii Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	FYI: CorrosionX is produced by a gentleman known as Mr. VanGilder. He also invented Corrosion Block. They are both very similar in their make up. Part of the component in the blend is mineral spirits if memory serves me correct. Because of this, breakdown will occur sooner than a purer refined prodcut that contains no mineral spirits. Mineral spirits can gum on breakdown. CLP is another that does similar as examples shown to me by military armourers have shown seperation in tropical climate. WD-40? It is a good inexpensive degreaser and only lasts for a few days at best for any benifit of lube or corrosion prevention. I have had great success with CarWellCP-90/RustCOP/T-32. With this name they wanted everyone to remember them by having the longest name it seems, but seriously, the name can be any one of the nomeclature these folks put on their labels. B4 I go further, I sell the stuff, and have used everything out there under the sun and as well. We have sold this stuff in 55 gallon drums to the US Army and anyone else who wants it. It's on Strykers, HMMV's, at one time 105's and 155's, can't get past the arms manufacturer......since they thought they owned CLP. Guess what guys, we have that 2 now, under the CORTEC VpCI (Vapor pahse Corrosion Inhibitor designed by the US Navy sometime around 44-45). BTW, USMC equipment is treated with the product as well. We have supported the local shooting community in Hawaii for over a decade with excellent results. Won't post more here at this point as I don't want to be over obtrusive. If anyone feel like they need some help with corrosion related issues, rust removal without bluing damage and long term storage or recently shoot and requires immediate preservation without cleaning please PM me. Mod, if there is issue with my thread as it is commercial in nature, please remove it as I understand complications. In closing, I have only posted once to this forum about an S/42 I had the pleasure of being in company with. It was some time ago so I am not certain if that is around yet or in cyber space. I've just saw in my sign off that the post has been lost to time. Will look for images and repost for everyones enjoyment. __________________ Honolulu Rich

07-24-2009, 06:53 PM	#46
Pappy User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Texas Posts: 38 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Sperm oil.. Question; What was the lubricant originally specified for the Luger?? Sperm oil.. Anybody have an original owners Manual?? __________________ Regards, Pappy Texas Life member NRA Endowment member TSRA O===[:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::> Very happily retired; every night is a Friday night and every day is a Saturday; except for Sunday, and that's a day of rest!!!

08-28-2009, 06:36 PM	#55
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 6,986 Thanks: 1,065 Thanked 5,088 Times in 1,674 Posts	3-in-1 is just a lightweight lubricating oil used on everything from sewing machines to fishing reels to squeeky door hinges. It does give a nice sheen to a gun and probably inhibits rust. But it is also slow evaporating which attracts and holds dust, which in turn can hold moisture and/or make the gun nasty to handle after it has been stored for a while. For a gun that is handled and used regularly it probably is a suitable gun oil. Frequent wipe downs will keep a 3-in-1 treated gun looking OK, just keep it off the grips. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

05-24-2012, 08:35 AM	#60
sheepherder Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: ...on the 'ol Erie Canal... Posts: 8,181 Thanks: 1,398 Thanked 4,438 Times in 2,327 Posts	Back in the 70's, when I was an SCCA member and attempting to race my Austin-Healey 100/6, we had a local engineer give a presentation on engine oil (for racing)...One interest thing I still remember was that aviation engine oil was additive-free...because aviation engines were total-loss systems and additives served no purpose... Doesn't contribute anything useful to this thread, I know...just some of that useless information that is taking up space in my overcrowded memory... __________________ I like my coffee the way I like my women... ...Cold and bitter...

12-09-2008, 01:50 AM	#41
Margana User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Portland, OR Metro Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	One final note: You might consider storing your guns in a gun "sock" or "sack". Midway USA has a good price on these gun sacks. These look like large stockings which have silicone lubricant in them. They are priced well (about US$15 for 5 gun sacks. These seem to give an additional degree of protection. Surprisingly, the rifle sized sacks are about the same price! I keep my guns in a safes that are in the crawl space of my house (the "crawl space" is actually large enough you can stand upright). SO far, I have not had any rust issues.....

07-09-2009, 09:31 AM	#45
USMC_Spike User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 13 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	For standard cleaning I've used WD-40 with good results. For difficult cleaning, I've tried naptha, but it just doesn't cut it. I'm talking rough baked on burned up stuff here. SO Use Berrymans B12 Chem Tool. Oh yeah, it cleans the crap out of your weapon. CAUTION Don't use it in doors! It has a high concentration of Toluene! Toluene causes irreversible brain damage, possible coma and death if inhaled for too long a time. It happened to a a couple of acquaintance engineers over at the bat wing company, serious stuff. LUB-RA-CA-TION For grease I use Shooters Choice all weather grease, its red. I also use Tetra Gun, lube. I should have used the grease too but didn't think about it...so the red grease is it in my Luger. I want to head on out and go shooting today. I"ll keep ya'll linformed. Regards, Spike

07-25-2009, 06:32 AM	#47
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,032 Thanks: 1,018 Thanked 3,873 Times in 1,184 Posts	The original lubricant was vaseline. Seriously.

07-25-2009, 09:40 AM	#48
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	Vaseline in a cold weather enviroment ? really.....

07-25-2009, 12:33 PM	#49
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,032 Thanks: 1,018 Thanked 3,873 Times in 1,184 Posts	Yes, that was one of the problems

07-25-2009, 01:42 PM	#50
policeluger RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Ca. Posts: 2,141 Thanks: 8 Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts	....and the crap that would stick to it.......

07-25-2009, 02:40 PM	#51
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,032 Thanks: 1,018 Thanked 3,873 Times in 1,184 Posts	Well, it was comparable to the tinned can and can opener issue. First they invented the tinned cans, found that while being a perfectly good food preserving container, opening them was a bit of a challenge. The can opener was invented quite a while afterwards. The same situation is visible in the modern semi-autos like the Parabellum pistol. The need for a good allround lubricant and preservative came after the introduction of the pistol and the experience that the lubricants around had too many drawbacks.

08-28-2009, 07:50 AM	#53
Vlim Moderator Lifetime LugerForum Patron Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Europe Posts: 5,032 Thanks: 1,018 Thanked 3,873 Times in 1,184 Posts	Michael, In Switzerland, yes. The original Parabellum manuals mention vaseline as the lubricating material, however. The high grade of Swiss gun condition is mainly a result of the fact that the Swiss never went to war and that they had regular refurbishing and maintenance schemes.

08-28-2009, 06:24 PM	#54
lboos User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ga. Posts: 69 Thanks: 4 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I talked to this one vender who is a reg. at our local gun shows that deal's only with German ww2 hand guns, and has been doing it for many years And his gun's all way's look great, I ask him what does he use, he said three and one oil, and that's all. I don't think i've heard anyone here mention Three and one oil. is it just because it's old? any one here ever use it?

08-28-2009, 08:39 PM	#56
lboos User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Ga. Posts: 69 Thanks: 4 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ron, I will take your advice, But!...three in one sure smell's a lot better then break free or some of these other super lub's of today. Thanks....lboos.

05-24-2012, 07:35 AM	#57
andwaahs User Join Date: May 2012 Location: Norway Posts: 85 Thanks: 41 Thanked 14 Times in 9 Posts	Anyone use balistol?

05-24-2012, 08:29 AM	#59
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts	I keep hearing of the use of WD40. As a cleaner/degreaser it is fine. Despite that the "WD" stands for "water displacement" I find that WD40 is a very poor water displacer and should never be used as a rust preventative, lubricant or preservative. The product tries to do too many things at once and none of them particularly well.