To click or not to click, that is the question?

[ronin]

In my lifelong quest for knowledge i�´ve come to this question:

Bought my "crappy" gun with a broken part, a small bent rod numbered #36 in the dissasembly diagram.

It was explained to me, and seemed logical at the time, that the rod in question would activate the trigger of my gun. Today i got the part, assembled it, cocked the action, pulled the trigger and...

Nothing happens. [img]eek.gif[/img] <img src="graemlins/cussing.gif" border="0" alt="[grrrrrrr]" /> <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />

I'm sorry to say that it will take some serious saving before i can take the gun to the range, so i can only try to dry fire it and rejoy myself in the promissing click if the bloode schei$$e wouldn�´t mind too much giving me that cheapest of thrills.

What is wrong or missing in this picture? Should the Luger go "click" if you **** it and dry fire or has it some special quality i�´m unaware of, that prevents that noise to become audible?

I�´m listening.... for your answers.

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[John Sabato]

Did it work before you took it apart?

and I am confused about which part you are talking about... in this diagram part #36 is a grip screw... did you mean part number 107?



...and dry firing a Luger is NOT recommended unless you are using a snap cap to take the stress off of the falling firing pin

[unspellable]

The pistol should make an audible click when dry fired. I would strongly recommend that you use a good snap cap to cushion the firing pin when you do this.

As for why it doesn't go click, start by taking the cannon off the frame and loading it with a snap cap. As you close the action you should be able to feel the sear engage and **** the striker (013). By pressing on the sear plunger (disconnector, little pin at front of 018) in a direction towards the center line of the cannon you should be able to make the striker drop. Make sure the plunger freely pushes into and springs out of the sear bar.

Put the side plate on the frame without the cannon and see if the trigger will move the trigger lever (108) and the trigger and trigger lever will return fully to rest position from the force of the trigger spring. When at rest the upper part of the trigger lever should be almost entirely inside the side plate.

In the normal firing cycle, the plunger must be able to slide under the trigger lever when you release the trigger.

Perform the above inspection and let us know the results.

[ronin]

John, you�´re right. It�´s the part #107, I guess i got confused with the other parts diagram presented to me that has a totally different nubering.

Unspellable (that is sure a nickname I should adopt instead of persisting in using my family name [img]biggrin.gif[/img] ). Thanks for your detailed explanation. I�´m still too shy to break my gun totally apart. It�´s been in the family only for a week and it does look as a threatening task. I guess i should take the plunge and give it my best uncapped shot. I don�´t any of those thingies unfortunately.

I�´ll retain that the click should be clearly audible and will summon all my courage and try to take the gun apart during the week end if i can get the kids out of my hair.

I�´ve owned guns for 8 years now and have never, ever, dared to take one totally apart. This is as good as an opportunity as i will get.

thank you both,

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[Heinz]

Ronin, Part 107, the trigger lever pin, is an essential part in the trigger to sear linkage. It is supposed to be bent, as shows in the diagram but if it is broke the trigger will not release the firing pin. Also if it is installed upside down it will not work. I decline to name the source for the last information :-)

[ronin]

Heinz,

You just gave me a clue but not the whole information. Without asking for any names, we don't need another "Deep Throat", do we? I would beg you to tell me /describe which way is the correct way to put the pin.

I noticed the pin is slightly longer at one of its ends so that end is the one that points outwards, to the front of the gun, and slightly protrudes from the parts assembly. It goes through the other 2 parts, the whateveryoucallit and the plate. Next, the whateveryoucallit has one plain end and another more elaborated end. Sorry but this is where my english ends and my fertile drug-free imagination starts to overdo it.

I've assembled the plain part going into the trigger and the more elaborated end hugging the frame / into the plate. Last, the bent of the rod follows the plate as naturally as it seems possible and goes downwards.

Thank you guys for the help, i'll keep investigating this gun and come back with more.
Questions, that is.

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[John Sabato]

The taller of the the two ends of the "L" that is the trigger lever goes vertical and the smaller end goes into the space provided in the trigger.

The small end has two 'pads' on it one at the end and one near the corner. The long end has only one 'pad'

if you had it assembled the other way, the trigger lever probably doesn't reach the sear and that is why the trigger doesn't drop the striker when you dry fire it.

[ronin]

Well John, I�´ve gone as far as the described parts many a time and have always done it properly it seems. I wonder if the problem does't lie deeper than that.

That would be scarier.

I haven�´t messed with one of the grip screws yet since it�´s almost destroyed and has no groove (?) left on its head and it will be quite a job to unscrew it. This will be the right side screw and grip panel.

Where can i find a proper step by step full dissasembly procedure? i�´m assuming that what is pictured here as dissasembly is a field strip since it only goes as far as needed and i must go where only a few ones dare to trade....

to be continued....