holster and leather protection

Periodically, on this board and others as well as among collectors, the subject comes up regarding the preseravation and protection of valuable old leather items. Luger holsters are a favorite of mine and it has become increasingly difficult to locate examples that people have not ruined with the application of treatments ranging from vaseline-like greases to oils and soaps. Recently, AutoMag published an unresearched article by someone who continued the tradition of recommending a popular goo, officially recommended "by the Smithsonian Institution" (not!). Below, I quote from the excellent review article by V. Dirksen of Iowa State University, published in 1997 in the Journal of Museum and Conservation Studies.


Yesterday, I saw the most beautiful mint 1944 holster I have ever seen slathered in grease by someone who may have ruined the best surviving WW2 holster. Please don't do that to these increasingly rare and fragile objects.


From Dirksen:

Unfortunately, the application of dressings can produce unexpected and serious problems for conserving the leather. While dressings may improve overall appearance, current research indicates that these oils and lubricants are not effective in preserving leather. Landman (1991) questions the need for applying lubricants to museum objects. "For museum objects, which are handled only infrequently and where flexibility of the leather is no longer of prime importance is there a need for further lubrication?" He goes on to say that "in conservation the lubricant can only be applied to the leather surface, often only to one surface and with the minimum of mechanical action." This is unlike leather manufacturing where the leather can be fully immersed in the lubricant. Furthermore, the conservator needs to recognize that the lubricant might change over time, seriously affecting the object being conserved (Landman 1991).


In addition to the problems surrounding the use of a lubricant in leather conservation, their use does not meet the principle of reversibility set forth in the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works (AIC) Code of Ethics. The principle of reversibility states that the conservator "should avoid the use of materials which may become so intractable that their future removal could endanger the physical safety of the object. They also should avoid the use of techniques, the results of which cannot be undone if that should become desirable" (American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works 1979).


The entire short report appears at:


http://palimpsest.stanford.edu/jcms/issue3/dirksen.html


Thanks for reading this,

D McLain

Univ of Colorado-Co Springs

[Johnny Peppers]

To each their own, but in 25 years of using the popular goo I have never had a bad experience, and I have brought back many pieces of leather from their death bed. I have a pair of Gokey snakeproof boots that were bought in the early 60's that have had a yearly treatment of a "goo" that resembles axle grease sold and recommended by Gokeys, and the boots have not gone flat, rotted, or dissolved in all that time. In fact, except for the scratches in the leather they look much the same as when purchased. They were made from 9oz bull hide and the tops are just as tough and firm as ever. Today they are in remarkably good condition considering the miles they have on them and I expect for them to outlast me by a long shot. Had they just sat in a closet for the past 40 years they would now be dry rotted.

I understand that many collectors feel that adding anthing diminishes the value, but I never hear what should be put on them?


I mean, my Artillery was getting extremely dried out on its own and I felt that it would dry rot to heck (as my son used to say) and so i applied Pecards to it and i don't believe I regret it.


Oh, and Marvin, I am back in Florida too! Will be in the pan handle, while you are a bit south I believe!


Ed

[Lonnie Zimmerman]

66 Mustang; I agree with you. I just put it on 12 holsters according to the instructions and it seemed to help them all. If we doN"t do something now there won"t be any holsters left in 100 years.


Lonnie

Read the Dirksen article for a brief overview of why the treatments you suggest will not arrest dry rot. Museums are able, now (though this was figured out only in recent years), to protect leather and keep it in good shape for far more than 100 years. If you put the treatments discussed on your leather, they stand a much increased chance of NOT surviving 100 years. Look for the proper care instructions by Dirksen, the conservators' society, and on the web site. As it states on Pecard's site, this stuff is for leather that is NOT or can not be properly cared for. As for boots, belts and other stuff you plan to use--treat it anyway you want but if it is a valuable collectible, you probably don't use it and to preserve it follow the care instructions described. Goos will deteriorate, darken and otherwise harm the leather. I have not seen a piece of collectible leather helped by these treatments and neither has anyone else. 25 years of personal experience must be compared with not treating the leather and examining the result.


It is not "to each his own". It either holds up to research evidence or does not. It IS "do what you want its your property".


There is no evidence that any goo will help your holsters better than proper care; there IS evidence that goo will harm your holsters.


I am not trying to criticize or opinionize. I simply got fed up this weekend when a one of a kind rarity was ireversibly treated with goo. It was definitely damaged.


The conservator's rule is "don't do anything that is not reversible". You can do what you like but at least do so with your eyes open. You may not see "much" damage from gooing your holsters--it might even look pretty; but don't be a gunshow bubba and claim the Smithsonian recommends it or tell people to do things you don't understand and may harm their collections.


First thing I ask when I am offered a holster of sling is has it been greased or treated. If it has it is usually oily, sticky, dark and soft. None of that is good. The value is a fraction of a dry, stiff, light, scuffed but original condition piece. Like original finish on a luger. Refinished is pretty but the value is modest and a future collector wants to know what the original finish was like, however little remains, not an "improved" finish.


My remarks are purely for education but the evidence has been mounting for a decade and is strong--goos are damaging; learn proper leather care.

[Johnny Peppers]

"Goo is bad!" "Goo is bad!" Like the discussion over the asterisk, we need proof. You make a statement that the "goo" treated leather will not last, but you offer nothing to back this up. There was a very good picture on this forum of a holster treated with Pecards just a few days back. I can look at the picture and tell that the holster is not sticky, oily, soft, or gooey.. The dried and scuffed areas of the holster are now protected from further deterioration. The "goo" treated holsters can even be buffed to shine with a shoe brush or soft cloth. You might now want that holster, but I would be proud to have it.

As far as being a gunshow "bubba"; I would never recommend anything to someone else that had not worked for me. As stated earlier, my experience with "goo" goes back 25 years on my collectibles and everything I have treated is in much better shape than before treatment and none have softened except where it was suppose to.

[lugerholsterrepair]

To agree or disagree..That is a deep and continuing question. I have taken dozens of luger holsters down to the last thread and examined them all closely. What MLM says is a word of caution and I agree we all need to think hard about these historical items intrusted to our care. I agree also that one should be careful about applying something and then not being able to reverse the process. Tanned leather is a fiber woven in an intricate natural pattern and oils and "goos" as MLM says can indeed make them either deteriorate or slide against one another in a way that nature and the tanning process did not intend, making the item too soft and pliable. I recently was able to track down a product made in England called Hide Food or changed to Hide Care with the help of a fellow NAPCA member. This is sold almost exclusively in Jaguar dealerships for the care of leather seats on their automobiles. I was able to get a jar of this stuff years ago and was highly impressed with it's leather treatment effects. If you have ever seen a leather car seat that has been untreated you will see the reason for treatment. Cracked and dry it is obvious that something needs doing. Neatsfoot oil is the biggest leather killer I have ever seen. It was origanally developed to break down leather soles of shoes to break them in. DO NOT USE THIS LEATHER POISON! Other potions have beeswax as a preservative and there are microscopic bugs attracted to beeswax that will destroy leather. I personally am a great fan of Dr. Jacksons Hide Rejuvenator sold by Tandy Co. Almost anything you put on a luger holster will darken it but the extremely light colorings seen on some very dry sixty or seventy year old holsters are not the original color. I suspect they have lightned over the years. Or darkened as the storage method employed would indicate. If a holster is used at all, picked up or flexed , a very dry solid leather will still be damaged because the fibers will break upon flexing. So it remains to be determined, how are you going to use the piece? Never move it or open it up? Not many of us who are proud of our collection are going to do that. I personally use my favorite potion indicated above inside and out slathering it on.It soaks in and dries out with very little change except that it improves the flexibility and general feel of the piece remains dry. I may be wrong and only time will tell but it works for me. Jerry Lugerholsterrepair

[Lonnie Zimmerman]

This is a MUCH BETTER thread than the one about the asterick!!


Lonnie

What about saddle soap and mink oil??

[Johnny Peppers]

I have some slings that were treated with mink oil over twenty years ago, and a white substance still forms on them periodically. It is not mildew as they are on rifles kept in a gun vault that has a goldenrod heater for temperature control. They sit alongside slings treated with Pecards that do not form the white substance. I also have Model 1916 holsters that were treated with mink oil at the same time period that are stored in airtight containers that do the same thing. They have shown no deterioration, but look like hell until they are wiped down again.